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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Macro Talk 
Thread started 23 Jan 2015 (Friday) 13:37
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Playing with a Meike MK-C-UP multifunctional extension tube

 
tintin124
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Feb 18, 2015 15:19 |  #31

LordV wrote in post #17437105 (external link)
Yup same arrangement. Tried it in manual and Av modes on the camera (600D)
Brian V.

I'm at a loss tried everything and as soon as I add in TC anywhere bar on the other end the aperture goes haywire though TC works fine without the Meike and vice versa. The Meike works aok with Kenko tubes.

Might have to see if I can try another TC to see if that works ok.


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LordV
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Feb 19, 2015 01:07 |  #32

tintin124 wrote in post #17437898 (external link)
I'm at a loss tried everything and as soon as I add in TC anywhere bar on the other end the aperture goes haywire though TC works fine without the Meike and vice versa. The Meike works aok with Kenko tubes.

Might have to see if I can try another TC to see if that works ok.

That's odd - can't think of anything that would help.
Brian V.


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Feb 19, 2015 01:09 |  #33

SteB wrote in post #17437328 (external link)
Thank you very much Brian. I'd like to make macro a bit more accessible and sort of design some off the shelf gadgets. One thing I want to design is a small plastic bracket, to mount small flashes like the 270EX on, to fit the front of the lens. Sort of like the bracket for the MT24EX, but for any small flash, and any lens. I'm not a big fan of big flash brackets. I'm interested in this Meike MK-C-UP because it seems a very simple way of people getting into macro photography. Although I do appreciate that with most kit zooms, it wouldn't be advisable to put too much weight on them. You'd probably need one of those arms to mount the flash on.

Basically I'm going to learn to use CAD software, then get these gadgets in my head 3-D printed, then see about getting them made in small batches by a plastic fabricator. I also want to make a simple screw on, or clip on adapter for my end of lens diffusers. I know you weren't too keen on them because of scaring the insects. So I want to make a sort of flared version to give a bit more clearance. I made one for the MT24EX and it seems to work okay. The difficult bit is finding the right shaped plastic to use as a former for them, which is I want to try getting some made.
QUOTED IMAGE

John Hallmen told me he's tested the 40mm pancake reversed and got very good results with it. The new 24mm f2.8 pancake would be an interesting lens to try on it as well. The company that makes those Venus 60mm macro lenses have a variable length auto extension tube. If you click shopping on their website you will find them. Meike did used to make one themselves, but they seem to have disappeared off the market.

Your going to be busy :)
Yes it does make trying out macro a bit easier/cheaper esp if you can sort out some form of lighting arrangement.

Good luck with your endeavours !
Brian V


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eddieb1
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Mar 02, 2015 17:35 |  #34

Just got my adapter today. Works with all of my lens except the 100mm 2.8 L IS. I kind of find that funny since it is a macro lens. Any ideas as to why it doesn't work with the Canon 100 L?




  
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Mar 03, 2015 01:23 |  #35

eddieb1 wrote in post #17457436 (external link)
Just got my adapter today. Works with all of my lens except the 100mm 2.8 L IS. I kind of find that funny since it is a macro lens. Any ideas as to why it doesn't work with the Canon 100 L?

Do you mean just using it as extension tubes or are you trying to reverse to lens ?
What doesn't work ?
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Mar 03, 2015 10:12 |  #36

LordV wrote in post #17457995 (external link)
Do you mean just using it as extension tubes or are you trying to reverse to lens ?
What doesn't work ?
Brian v.

Either way. No signal using it as an extension tube or reversing the lens. The lens works perfectly by itself.




  
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LordV
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Mar 04, 2015 01:09 |  #37

eddieb1 wrote in post #17458486 (external link)
Either way. No signal using it as an extension tube or reversing the lens. The lens works perfectly by itself.

Hmm - odd . I've no idea why but thanks for the info
Brian v.


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Mar 04, 2015 11:26 as a reply to  @ LordV's post |  #38

I remember reading somewhere that it might not work with all camera and lens combinations. Of course, I happen to have one!  :p




  
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Temma
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Mar 05, 2015 08:15 |  #39

Not just a great image, but a great demonstration of the shallowness of the depth of field.




  
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LordV
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Mar 06, 2015 00:56 |  #40

Temma wrote in post #17461578 (external link)
Not just a great image, but a great demonstration of the shallowness of the depth of field.

Thanks for the comments. Normally I'd make a comment that the DOF is only dependent on the aperture and the magnification rather than the optical system producing it but there is probably more to it in the case of a reversed kit lens as it's likely the aperture is not the same as when it's normally mounted - it seems to behave as if it's about 1 stop more open.

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Mar 07, 2015 00:59 |  #41

LordV wrote in post #17462824 (external link)
Thanks for the comments. Normally I'd make a comment that the DOF is only dependent on the aperture and the magnification rather than the optical system producing it but there is probably more to it in the case of a reversed kit lens as it's likely the aperture is not the same as when it's normally mounted - it seems to behave as if it's about 1 stop more open.

Brian v.

I think you're right Brian -I don't stack so I pretty much know how much depth there is at a given aperture / magnification and all of the reversed lens setups that I've seen produce a lower depth of field than a normal macro lens at the same aperture and magnification. In some cases the difference looks like it's easily more than just one stop, and it varies depending on the lens -might have something to do with the location of the aperture in relation to the lens elements / groups. It's so noticeable that I initially thought that people were not setting the aperture correctly; that when using the depth of field preview technique for setting the aperture that it either didn't work, or the aperture was shifting after the lens lost contact with the camera.


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Lester ­ Wareham
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Mar 07, 2015 01:06 |  #42

If I go back to the stuff I used in film days this might explain what you see,

The DOF formula are different for a reversed and non-revered lens because of the lens pupillary magnification (weather the lens is tele or retro focus).

DOF_FWD=2.f.c.(M+P)/P/​M^2
DOF_REV=2.f.c.(M.P+1)/​P/M^2

Here M is the image magnification, P is the lens pupillary magnification, f is the f-stop used to take the picture and c is the diameter of the circle of confusion.

The lens pupillary magnification P is defined as the exit (rear) pupil size divided by the entry (front) pupil size with lens in normal or forward mount.


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Ty ­ Williams
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Jun 03, 2016 08:45 |  #43

Hi, I hope you don't mind my jumping on the thread. Had my MK-C-UP yesterday, and spent some time trying various modes. 17-40L reversed gives good results at f22, but I am hoping to set it up for use with bellows and a 70-200L for bugs, butterflies etc with a ringlight (Yongnou YN14EX).

Here's my progress so far on coverting my vintage BPM bellows.

Camera side.

BPM 49mm reverse adapter to bellows.

The front from a Vivitar 19mm lens, which fits nicely onto the 49mm thread and offers a 62mm filter thread.

A 62mm to 58mm Step Down ring.

The 58mm Reverse adapter supplied by Meile.

This attaches very securely to the bellows, and I can still use the MK-C-UP for reverse lens work.

My problems lie on the other side of the bellows...the lens side.

Bellows connection is via BPM 55mm reverse adapter.

I have step-up and step-down rings, but cannot seem to get the thread size for the male connection that connects the two together to use as an auto extension tube. I could perhaps glue a step up or down adapter to the edge of the lens "blank" which is showing when the lens is reversed (if you see what I mean!) but I would rather have a proper threaded adapter than glue breaking and dropping my 70-200L!!! Do you know the size of the thread please, and is there perhaps an adapter ring I could utilise to attach to the other side of the bellows? Many thanks in advance. I thought the device would have EF bayonet connections throughout, which would have been easier.... :rolleyes: Ty


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LordV
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Jun 03, 2016 10:43 |  #44

Ty Williams wrote in post #18027734 (external link)
Hi, I hope you don't mind my jumping on the thread. Had my MK-C-UP yesterday, and spent some time trying various modes. 17-40L reversed gives good results at f22, but I am hoping to set it up for use with bellows and a 70-200L for bugs, butterflies etc with a ringlight (Yongnou YN14EX).

Here's my progress so far on coverting my vintage BPM bellows.

Camera side.

BPM 49mm reverse adapter to bellows.

The front from a Vivitar 19mm lens, which fits nicely onto the 49mm thread and offers a 62mm filter thread.

A 62mm to 58mm Step Down ring.

The 58mm Reverse adapter supplied by Meile.

This attaches very securely to the bellows, and I can still use the MK-C-UP for reverse lens work.

My problems lie on the other side of the bellows...the lens side.

Bellows connection is via BPM 55mm reverse adapter.

I have step-up and step-down rings, but cannot seem to get the thread size for the male connection that connects the two together to use as an auto extension tube. I could perhaps glue a step up or down adapter to the edge of the lens "blank" which is showing when the lens is reversed (if you see what I mean!) but I would rather have a proper threaded adapter than glue breaking and dropping my 70-200L!!! Do you know the size of the thread please, and is there perhaps an adapter ring I could utilise to attach to the other side of the bellows? Many thanks in advance. I thought the device would have EF bayonet connections throughout, which would have been easier.... :rolleyes: Ty

Hi Ty- Don't think I can help you with this one but I am having trouble understanding why you would want to stick a 70-200mm lens on the end of bellows.
Brian V.


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Ty ­ Williams
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Jun 03, 2016 12:58 as a reply to  @ LordV's post |  #45

Well, when I put extension tubes on the 70-200, I get a reasonable distance to the target, and I was thinking it may be the same with bellows, with perhaps a working distance to allow flash coverage and without scaring off butterflies for example. :)


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Playing with a Meike MK-C-UP multifunctional extension tube
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