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FORUMS General Gear Talk DIY & Customizing 
Thread started 29 Jan 2015 (Thursday) 06:09
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DIY Dummy Battery (Canon 5D & EOS M)

 
uljens
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Post edited over 6 years ago by uljens. (2 edits in all)
     
Jan 29, 2015 06:09 |  #1

Sorry for the bad English
It would be nice that admin allowed to see also other imeges added to this threat not only 8. tx ;)

This might be useful for those who are constantly taking picture in studio, filming video, time-lapse/hyper lapse etc. If this is done with mirror less camera, then even more (they usually are not capable of more than 300 shots from singe charge).

Canon 5D (BP-511A) dummy battery

Parts needed:

1 x Canon 5D battery (BP-511A)
1 x DC-DC convertor (http://www.ebay.com …geName=STRK%3AM​EBIDX%3AIT (external link))
1 x DC Conector Cable Female Plug (http://www.ebay.com …ories&hash=item​3a7ce341cf (external link))

Given that I already had a spare battery, the rebuild cost me 1.72$

Take an old battery that no longer hold a charge or buy the cheapest available. Using scalpel carefully cut it open along the groove

IMAGE: http://www.fotoreinis.lv/new/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/IMG_4757_1200px.jpg

Separate battery elements from contacts unsoldering or cutting with a pair of pliers. Suggest to discharge the battery before
IMAGE: http://www.fotoreinis.lv/new/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/IMG_4760_1200px.jpg

If necessary, remove the stickers, which can interfere the hole drilling. Drill a hole (why exactly here – see the last picture with camera and battery), whose diameter is equal to the diameter of the cable (see next picture)
IMAGE: http://www.fotoreinis.lv/new/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/IMG_4763_1200px.jpg

Put in the cable; leave enough long wire for soldering. Glue in the cable so it dont move
IMAGE: http://www.fotoreinis.lv/new/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/IMG_4766_1200px.jpg

For powering, I choose this DC-DC step-down converter, because it is small in size (22x17x4mm) and it has necessary characteristics – input voltage 4.5-28V and output 0.8-20V (adjustable with screw on the converter)
IMAGE: http://www.fotoreinis.lv/new/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/IMG_4769_1200px.jpg

Soldered incoming wires to the converter “+” an “-“inputs, output wires from converter output “+” and “-” to battery “+” and “-” contacts (battery “+” and “-” indicated on other side of housing). Converter secured to the battery housing with double-sided adhesive tape (optional)
IMAGE: http://www.fotoreinis.lv/new/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/IMG_4772_1200px.jpg

From converter specification, the input voltage must be 4.5-28V, but as BP-511A battery voltage is 7.4V, then we need input voltage that is greater than 7.4V, ideally something around 9V. I connected to a 19V laptop power supply. Put your voltmeter terminals at the output of the converter and then with the adjusting screw on converter adjust output voltage approximately around 7.4V
IMAGE: http://www.fotoreinis.lv/new/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/IMG_4776_1200px.jpg

Before gluing the housing, check once more time that output voltage is around 7.4V. Glue the housing together. Put battery in the camera and check how this thing is working (this picture shows why the hole on housing had to be exactly where it is and not elsewhere)
IMAGE: http://www.fotoreinis.lv/new/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/IMG_4779_1200px.jpg

Canon EOS M (LP-E12) dummy battery

Principle similar to the Canon 5D battery BP-511A, except for one nuance - Canon EOS M has not a niche where to pull out the battery cable, but only the hole through which the cable can be connected. This means that EOSM M battery needs power socket built inside the battery.

Parts needed:

1 x Canon EOS M battery (LP-E12)
1 x DC-DC convertor (http://www.ebay.com …geName=STRK%3AM​EBIDX%3AIT (external link))
1 x DC 5.5x2.1mm socket (http://www.ebay.com …ain_0&hash=item​19d5cf605c (external link))

Given that I already had a spare battery, the rebuild cost me 1.12$

Take an old battery that no longer hold a charge or buy the cheapest available. Using scalpel carefully cut it open along the groove

IMAGE: http://www.fotoreinis.​lv/new/wp-content/uploads/2015/0​1/IMG_4783_1200px.jpg

Take out the elements and uncut from them two equal pieces of flat contact (opposite to 5D battery, here contacts are implemented on the plate together with the elements) will be used as "+" and "-" contact on battery. Suggest to do discharge the battery before

IMAGE: http://www.fotoreinis.​lv/new/wp-content/uploads/2015/0​1/IMG_4784_1200px.jpg

Drill a hole with a diameter of 5.5mm (measure the exact location with the battery inserted in camera). If needed with the round seam make the hole flush

IMAGE: http://www.fotoreinis.​lv/new/wp-content/uploads/2015/0​1/IMG_4786_1200px.jpg

Try on how it might look like (DC power socket can be seated inside the housing, so it will be flush with outer edge and will require less power contact length)

IMAGE: http://www.fotoreinis.​lv/new/wp-content/uploads/2015/0​1/IMG_4788_1200px.jpg

Solder everything together outside the housing

IMAGE: http://www.fotoreinis.​lv/new/wp-content/uploads/2015/0​1/IMG_4792_1200px.jpg

Put everything in housing, arrange correctly flat contacts (battery “+” and “-” indicated on the housing other side), glue so the contacts and socket sits stable and not move. Converter can be secured to the battery housing with double-sided adhesive tape (optional)

IMAGE: http://www.fotoreinis.​lv/new/wp-content/uploads/2015/0​1/IMG_4795_1200px.jpg

Connect battery to DC power. I connected to a 19V laptop power supply. Put your voltmeter terminals at the output of the converter and then with the adjusting screw on converter adjust output voltage approximately around 7.4V
Before gluing the housing, check once more time that output voltage is around 7.4V. Glue the housing together

IMAGE: http://www.fotoreinis.​lv/new/wp-content/uploads/2015/0​1/IMG_4797_1200px.jpg

By analogy, can make dummy battery almost for every camera
Can power from 9-24V DC-DC power supplies, 12V lead acid batteries, 9-24V power banks etc

CC welcome

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mainbyte
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Jan 29, 2015 06:41 |  #2

Excellent article, and your English was very good! Thank you for taking the time to show all the steps. Time to dig out the soldering iron.

Ron


Canon 6D | Canon 7DII | 17-40 f/4L | 24-105 f/4L | 70-300 4/5.6L |100mm f/2.8L macro | 50mm 1.4 | 580exII | 2 - 430exII |

  
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Chief_10Beers
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Jan 29, 2015 09:30 |  #3

Excellent! What is the current output from the Converter?............​...


ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
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uljens
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Post edited over 6 years ago by uljens. (4 edits in all)
     
Jan 29, 2015 13:11 as a reply to  @ Chief_10Beers's post |  #4

The MAX 3A, but camera needs constant voltage (I would even say not constant but from 7.2-8.2V), so it takes current how much needed


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vk2gwk
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Location: One Mile Beach, NSW 2316, Australia
     
Jan 31, 2015 17:59 |  #5

I think a 12-13.6V 3A wall wart would do Nicely documented article. For security I would insert a fuse in series with the "plus" of the power input before the converter and a 1W 7.5 V (8.2V) zener diode to blow the fuse of the converter when it malfunctions and pushes the output over 7.5V. This prevents too high a voltage across the battery terminals.


My name is Henk. and I believe "It is all in the eye of the beholder....."
Image Editing is allowed. Please explain what you did!
Canon R5, 5D MkIV 5DMkIII, 50D, 24-105/1:4 + RF70-200mm F/2.8L IS USM + 100-400/4-5.6L IS USM + 50mm 1.4 USM + Sigma 150-600mm Sports + 580EXII + 430EX + YN568EXII, triggers, reflectors, umbrellas and some more bits and pieces...
Photos on: Flickr! (external link) and on my own web site. (external link)

  
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DIY Dummy Battery (Canon 5D & EOS M)
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