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Thread started 22 Feb 2015 (Sunday) 11:36
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Mike ­ Martin
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Feb 22, 2015 11:36 |  #1

CC welcome. First attempt of a headshot with my son. I got a basic Cowboy studio umbrella set for Christmas along with a collapsible backdrop.

IMAGE: https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8651/16405842397_9fe931d2d4_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/qZJe​nF  (external link) Max Martin (external link) by Mike M Martin (external link), on Flickr

Mike Martin: MMartinPhotography.com (external link)flickr (external link) 500px (external link)
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sandytrouble
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Feb 22, 2015 13:25 |  #2

Nice shot. I would work on positioning the lights (or use an external flash bounced) to get rid of the shadows under the hair (right side) and under his neck


7D [EFS 17-55, EF 50 1.4, 70-200 IS II]

  
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saea501
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Feb 23, 2015 16:34 |  #3

Pretty nice picture....although it has a little green tint especially his neck and cheeks.


Remember what the DorMouse said.....feed your head.
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dodgyexposure
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Feb 24, 2015 00:31 |  #4

Normally, a headshot includes the entire head. If you were taking a close up of the face, it wouldn't matter, but just that little bit of the top of his head cut off somehow bugs me . . .

A reflector down low would clean up some of those shadows nicely (referencing sandy's post above), although you may like to adjust so there is a greater difference between your key and fill lights - this can give more natural looking shadows without needing the reflector.


Cheers, Damien

  
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Alveric
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Feb 24, 2015 01:48 |  #5
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dodgyexposure wrote in post #17446855 (external link)
Normally, a headshot includes the entire head. If you were taking a close up of the face, it wouldn't matter, but just that little bit of the top of his head cut off somehow bugs me . . .[..]

Not necessarily; ever seen Peter Hurley's headshots? He loves cropping off the top of his subjects' heads. A matter of style.


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jimeuph1
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Feb 24, 2015 03:26 |  #6

If you are cropping the head, then crop it rather than just snipping it.

Hurley crops the head, so that the eyes are on the top third line, and this allows you to see more of the body as well, which helps prevent a head shot from looking decapitated.

A portrait orientation might be something to consider.

If you are going for even lighting, which is what this looks like it is supposed to be, then don't forget fill lighting for the shadows under his chin. A cheap reflector works just as well as another light, or if you are really pushed a piece of white paper would also of worked.

Keep experimenting and finding out what you like... and what you don't!




  
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Mike ­ Martin
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Feb 24, 2015 05:46 |  #7

Thanks everyone for the valuable feedback. Hopefully my son will be patient with me and let me shoot him again. Definitely need to work on lighting and I'll experiment with the crop too.


Mike Martin: MMartinPhotography.com (external link)flickr (external link) 500px (external link)
Canon R5, Canon 80D, Tamron 35mm f/1.4, Sigma 50 1.4 EX, Canon 85mm f/1.8, Tamron 70-200 2.8 G2, Sigma 150-600 C, Godox AD200 x2, Flashpoint R2 Zoom x2

  
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Left ­ Handed ­ Brisket
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Feb 24, 2015 07:59 as a reply to  @ Mike Martin's post |  #8

Looks like rather than having a main and a fill, you have two lights that are basically the same power. Combined with the positioning this causes "cross shadows" that are not natural looking.


PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Not in gear database: Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20

  
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Mike ­ Martin
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Feb 24, 2015 10:23 |  #9

Left Handed Brisket wrote in post #17447188 (external link)
Looks like rather than having a main and a fill, you have two lights that are basically the same power. Combined with the positioning this causes "cross shadows" that are not natural looking.

You're correct. Easy fix too. Thank you so much for the help!!


Mike Martin: MMartinPhotography.com (external link)flickr (external link) 500px (external link)
Canon R5, Canon 80D, Tamron 35mm f/1.4, Sigma 50 1.4 EX, Canon 85mm f/1.8, Tamron 70-200 2.8 G2, Sigma 150-600 C, Godox AD200 x2, Flashpoint R2 Zoom x2

  
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Left ­ Handed ­ Brisket
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Feb 24, 2015 10:29 as a reply to  @ Mike Martin's post |  #10

You're welcome.

The first thing you might try is to keep one light directly behind the camera and the other as your main light close to the subject. Even if they are set to the same power, since the light behind you is farther away (at least it should be) it's apparent brightness will be much less than the one next to the subject.


PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Not in gear database: Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20

  
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