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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 11 Mar 2015 (Wednesday) 11:49
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Do I need another speedlite with HSS function?

 
p00kienrayray
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Mar 11, 2015 11:49 |  #1

I've been shooting a lot of outdoor portraits lately. Initially I've been setting the aperture @ f/4-7.1, but since acquiring my 135 f/2, I'm trying to shoot at a wider aperture, which requires higher shutter speeds.

I have one Neewer TT680 w/ HSS (which works great) that is very affordable @ $63 from Amazon. I also have 2X Neewer TT560's, which do not have HSS.
I'd like to do a 2-light setup, but not sure if one flash using HSS and the other not using HSS would give unwanted effects @ high shutter speeds.

I also want to start shooting group/family portraits outdoors, so I assume one flash using HSS would not cut it? $63 is an excellent value, but if don't have to add another piece of equipment, that would be better.


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OceanRipple*
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Post edited over 8 years ago by OceanRipple*.
     
Mar 11, 2015 11:56 |  #2

Hi, You might choose to go the ND route . . .

but if staying with HSS, then yes, all Speedlites in use need to be HSS capable (and receive the early trigger command required under HSS).
How are you planning to trigger the HSS lights?

The Meike or Neewer MK600 ETTL Speedlite works well with Odins to offer HSS . .
http://www.amazon.com …eywords=meike+f​lash+Canon (external link)

It is possible to mix true (40 to 50 KHz pulsing) HSS with the 'Early trigger - Long Burn hack' AKA PW's Hypersync - all in one network.




  
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p00kienrayray
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Mar 11, 2015 12:44 as a reply to  @ OceanRipple*'s post |  #3

ND sounds like a good idea. Don't know why I didn't think of that. This way I can still use my non-HSS flashes. What stop ND do you think would be a good starting point? I guess I can get multiple stops, just for future applications as well.

As far as triggers, I'm not sure what frequency it uses, but I use the cheap cowboy studio poppers...they work well with HSS.


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Mar 11, 2015 12:56 as a reply to  @ p00kienrayray's post |  #4

I'd use two flashes for a single person outdoors with an ND, but for groups I'd use something more powerful.

A 4-6 stop ND should work to get down to f/2.




  
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p00kienrayray
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Mar 11, 2015 13:40 as a reply to  @ frugivore's post |  #5

Ok, is it safe to estimate that whatever the stop value on the ND, we just increase in flash power? So for ND4, just increase flash output by 4 stops?


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Mar 11, 2015 15:15 |  #6

p00kienrayray wrote in post #17470471 (external link)
Ok, is it safe to estimate that whatever the stop value on the ND, we just increase in flash power? So for ND4, just increase flash output by 4 stops?

No, you compensate the loss of flashpower with opening up the aperture.

(F5.6 at 1/200 = F2.0 at 1/200 with 3 stop ND)


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p00kienrayray
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Mar 11, 2015 18:14 as a reply to  @ Nonnit's post |  #7

Well let's say I start with the aperture wide open, only way from there is to use flash to compensate for ND right?


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Left ­ Handed ­ Brisket
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Mar 11, 2015 19:38 |  #8

If your shots are well balanced (ambient/flash) @ 5.6 and xsync, if you put a three stop ND on and open up the aperture three stops your exposure will be the same as before so long you don't change anything else.


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p00kienrayray
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Mar 11, 2015 22:39 |  #9

I understand that concept. Since my goal is to shoot wide open, is there any reason to start with smaller aperture and work up towards wide open, instead of starting out wide open+ND in the first place then compensating with flash power?

Thanks for all your comments.


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Mar 11, 2015 22:49 |  #10

p00kienrayray wrote in post #17471154 (external link)
I understand that concept. Since my goal is to shoot wide open, is there any reason to start with smaller aperture and work up towards wide open, instead of starting out wide open+ND in the first place then compensating with flash power?

Thanks for all your comments.

I would imagine that if you start wide open, you will have a shutter speed up in the HSS range. When you put on the 3 stop ND, you will be able to reduce your shutter speed three stops and hopefully bring it into the sync range of your camera so that you can use your flashes without the need for HSS. I new at this as well, so someone more experienced can confirm this; I'm sort of thinking out loud while typing. :-D


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Nonnit
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Mar 12, 2015 03:20 |  #11

p00kienrayray wrote in post #17471154 (external link)
I understand that concept. Since my goal is to shoot wide open, is there any reason to start with smaller aperture and work up towards wide open, instead of starting out wide open+ND in the first place then compensating with flash power?

Thanks for all your comments.

Just start with the ND, your camera meter and TTL works fine with ND on.

As long as you are under/at sync speed you will be fine.

if you get ND filter make sure your camera can focus with it on.


Nonnit
5DMKIII // 70-200mm f2.8 L II // 35mm f2.0 IS // 50mm f1.4 // 85mm f1.8 // 100mm f2.8 Macro // 135mm f2.0 L // stuff
Film: https://www.flickr.com​/photos/souloffilm/ (external link)
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Digital: http://nonnitryggva.is (external link) //

  
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Do I need another speedlite with HSS function?
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