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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 18 Mar 2015 (Wednesday) 16:30
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Can you light an eyeball for a close-up without seeing the light source in the eye?

 
wallstreetoneil
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Post edited over 8 years ago by wallstreetoneil.
     
Mar 18, 2015 16:30 |  #1

we decided to have a little macro fun of sorts during March break with the kids to see who had the most interesting eyeball - tried a few different things but just gave up as the kids were losing interest but if you had to light an eyeball for a macro shot is there a way of doing it (we used a constant light LED) without seeing the light source reflected in the eye?

pictures are from a 5D3 with a 100L macro

IMAGE: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7283/16669910648_943676f8fc_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/rp4D​Ey  (external link) oneil_eyes (external link) by wallstreetoneil (external link), on Flickr

IMAGE: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7282/16671369909_3a48ff4ec9_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/rpc8​se  (external link) oneil_eyes-4 (external link) by wallstreetoneil (external link), on Flickr

IMAGE: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7636/16831639156_11aa84cda6_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/rDmx​V7  (external link) oneil_eyes-2 (external link) by wallstreetoneil (external link), on Flickr

IMAGE: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7603/16670116450_cf9a6b9349_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/rp5G​QS  (external link) oneil_eyes-3 (external link) by wallstreetoneil (external link), on Flickr

Hockey and wedding photographer. Favourite camera / lens combos: a 1DX II with a Tamron 45 1.8 VC, an A7Rii with a Canon 24-70F2.8L II, and a 5DSR with a Tamron 85 1.8 VC. Every lens I own I strongly recommend [Canon (35Lii, 100L Macro, 24-70F2.8ii, 70-200F2.8ii, 100-400Lii), Tamron (45 1.8, 85 1.8), Sigma 24-105]. If there are better lenses out there let me know because I haven't found them.

  
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OceanRipple*
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Post edited over 8 years ago by OceanRipple*.
     
Mar 18, 2015 18:49 |  #2

Hi, Given the convex curvature of the cornea, you are going to have a hard time avoiding reflections.

I would take two images with a smallish source, but moved for the second, and clone over the highlight from the donor site in the other image - IYSWIM.

Otherwise, either mess with polarizers or flood a white wall behind the camera (eyepiece covered) - but that just softens and enlarges the reflection, making it somewhat less noticeable.




  
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abbadon31
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Mar 19, 2015 09:18 |  #3

The key to lighting a reflective surface is to bounce the light back onto the surface. If i was going to do eye close up, I would have my lights faceing a large white surface (wall/or sheet) and have the subject faceing it. The wall is so large that it will not show a catch light shape in the eye.


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wallstreetoneil
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Mar 19, 2015 09:33 as a reply to  @ abbadon31's post |  #4

I figured that something like that would be the solution if you could get the correct angle but we tried a version of that but on an extreme eye close-up, the eye is a mirror and we could see it in the eye.

I still think this is the solution however.


Hockey and wedding photographer. Favourite camera / lens combos: a 1DX II with a Tamron 45 1.8 VC, an A7Rii with a Canon 24-70F2.8L II, and a 5DSR with a Tamron 85 1.8 VC. Every lens I own I strongly recommend [Canon (35Lii, 100L Macro, 24-70F2.8ii, 70-200F2.8ii, 100-400Lii), Tamron (45 1.8, 85 1.8), Sigma 24-105]. If there are better lenses out there let me know because I haven't found them.

  
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BlakeC
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Mar 19, 2015 09:40 |  #5

What about outdoors on an overcast day?


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Nogo
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Mar 19, 2015 09:48 |  #6

wallstreetoneil wrote in post #17481960 (external link)
I figured that something like that would be the solution if you could get the correct angle but we tried a version of that but on an extreme eye close-up, the eye is a mirror and we could see it in the eye.

I still think this is the solution however.

I think to get the correct angle it would require something shaped like a studio umbrella but larger.

Probably easier to move the light sorce two or three times, take a number of photos, and create a composite of the eye from the part of each that does not show the catch light.


Philip

  
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BlakeC
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Mar 19, 2015 09:59 |  #7

Nogo wrote in post #17481991 (external link)
I think to get the correct angle it would require something shaped like a studio umbrella but larger.

Probably easier to move the light sorce two or three times, take a number of photos, and create a composite of the eye from the part of each that does not show the catch light.

That sounds like the best way...but you have to be carefull to match the angle of the eye to lens each time.


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RicoTudor
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Post edited over 8 years ago by RicoTudor.
     
Mar 19, 2015 23:04 |  #8

An entire wall isn't enough. I tried, and the eye reflects the wall, the walls on either side, floor, ceiling and the camera. A featureless reflector very close to hemisphere coverage is needed, like lying supine atop a mountain peak on a cloudy day. Or fake it in PS.


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abbadon31
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Mar 20, 2015 02:13 |  #9

RicoTudor wrote in post #17483093 (external link)
An entire wall isn't enough. I tried, and the eye reflects the wall, the walls on either side, floor, ceiling and the camera. A featureless reflector very close to hemisphere coverage is needed, like lying supine atop a mountain peak on a cloudy day. Or fake it in PS.

I've never had mountain thing going on, but I was shooting in a full white room


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pulsar123
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Post edited over 8 years ago by pulsar123.
     
Mar 20, 2015 14:25 as a reply to  @ abbadon31's post |  #10

Something like this?

IMAGE: https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8579/16425580479_f51781a8ac_c.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/r2to​Pr  (external link) Macro selfie (or Solar eclipse in the eye) (external link) by syamastro (external link), on Flickr

It is a selfie, with no assistant, so even more difficult to produce. I probably spent an hour trying to get a nice setup. This is macro (1.6:1), using 70-200mm f4 lens at 200mm with a full set of extension tubes with AF wiring. The trick was to have a fairly large light source (visibly much larger that the camera focused on your eye) - 60" octagon softbox in my case, located far enough to have its reflection completely contained within the pupil. Then you place the camera on a tripod between your eye and the softbox. At the end, you see a large (but smaller than the pupil) softbox reflection with a small silhouette of the camera in the middle. (It helps to have the room fairly dark, so your pupil gets large.) This can be easily removed in PP as it's entirely in the black (pupil) area.

The hardest part for such a selfie is to get the focus right. AF only works when you are withing a fraction of a mm of the sharp position, and then it will focus on the camera reflection, which throughs iris out of focus. I ended up playing with MFA numbers (using Magic Lantern, which allowed me to go way beyond the Canon's -20...20 range for MFA) until it was the iris which was in focus when AF was engaged. Overall, ~100 flashes at full power from YN560 right into my eye to get it right :)

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phantelope
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Mar 20, 2015 14:31 |  #11

that's a great shot!

I'm wondering if polarized film over your flash and a polarizer on your lens would work. I've seen examples where this approach removes a lot of reflections on jewelry and glass. I have some of the film (available online) but have yet to actually get around to using it, one of my many rainy day projects and with the lack of rain in CA.....

But the above approach, trying to get the light to reflect only in the black pupil (or maybe the white of the eye) is a great idea too!


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Left ­ Handed ­ Brisket
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Post edited over 8 years ago by Left Handed Brisket.
     
Mar 20, 2015 15:12 |  #12

damn.


hope this post has helped.


PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Not in gear database: Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20

  
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Can you light an eyeball for a close-up without seeing the light source in the eye?
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