I've been thinking a lot about flash photography lately, it represents something of a dark art for me. I understand the theory behind it, it isn't too complicated. I do struggle with quick situations where I have to work out settings FAST to take a good photo. There are a lot of things to consider with regard to accurate flash exposure, for foreground and background. Not to mention ALL the standard photography rules, about focus technique, and composition.
So, with dragging the shutter, imagine the following situation. The background meters at 1/20 at, say, f/4. The foreground (perhaps a person) is also registering 1/20 at f/4, so we have quite an even situation, 1/20 @ f/4 will perfectly expose everything.
In situations like this (foreground and background equal light), is dragging the shutter possible? I see the following possibilites.
1 - You expose at 1/20 @ f/4 and fill flash....the background exposes perfectly, the flash will kick out hardly ANY power at all (because the subject is already going to be exposed nicely at 1/20, f/4). As such, the foreground subject is exposed well, but a bit blurry because of camera shake (due to 1/20).
2 - You decide to either increase shutter speed or close down the aperture (e.g. 1/60 at f/4) - so effectively you reduce ambient light coming to the lens. This means the flash will have more impact and weight, but the end result is an underexposed background, and perfectly exposed and sharp foreground.
It's a basic view of what might happen, but it's just something I was thinking about today. Obviously the best option is (2), because you do get a useable photo. So is it a fair thing so say that if your foreground subject and background are metering identically, then you can't really get much success at 'dragging the shutter'? Dragging the shutter is only a possibility when the background ambient lighting is brighter than your foreground ambient lighting?
Or, you could read all this and decide to ignore the inane ramblings of somebody bored at work.
The ultimate aim is for me to know exactly what my camera is going to do, rather than be reactive to what it actually does when I try it.

