Lets See Your OCF HSS Outdoor Portraiture.

Stupid question but how can I synch at speeds higher than 1/200 using 5D MK3, Profoto AcuteB and Pocket wizard? Do I need something else?

Thx

maxshafiq wrote in post #17718671
Stupid question but how can I synch at speeds higher than 1/200 using 5D MK3, Profoto AcuteB and Pocket wizard? Do I need something else?

Thx

Which pocket wizard?

I believe its the good old plus2

The plus IIs are fire only dumb triggers. They don't carry any additional information.

So I guess back to my orig question. For me to perform HSS do I need different triggers/equip or am I just plain stupid

In order to do HSS via remote you need ALL of the following

1. an HSS-capable ETTL strobe, and
   
2. an HSS-capable radio trigger and receiver
   
3. an HSS-capable ETTL camera
   

• Hypersync works with non-HSS flash units to support a 'faster than usual' shutter speed, but it does NOT go as fast as HSS shutter speeds!
  
• Pocket Wizard MiniTT1 and FlexTT5 do also support Hypersync (in addition to supporting HSS)
  

Hi, According to Kirk Tuck .. "At full power the Acute B's flash duration is about 1/1,000th of a second. Not as short as a smaller, shoe mount unit but much faster than many bigger studio A/C powered flashes. When you head toward the other end of the scale the flash duration drops down to a minimum of 1/6,800th of a second."

see;
http://visualsciencela​b.blogspot.co.uk …few-days-its-time-to.html

If that is confirmed, then it looks as though your Acute B head(s) will not do either the 40-50 KHz pulsing for true 'HSS' nor the 'Long burn' required for Supersync - even if you had triggers capable of propagating the 'early trigger' required for higher-than-max-sync-speed-flash-shooting (like the TTL PWs (Mini & Flex), Phottix Odins or Yn622Cs etc).

So, ?stick with ND filters if you want the wide Ap look in bright ambient conditions.

11:00 AM in full sun from camera right. Fill with single Phottix Mitros +, and Phottix Odin Tx on camera.

Thanks for the explanation.

One bad news after another

I guess its time to get my 580EX out of the closet...

Wilt wrote in post #17719334
In order to do HSS via remote you need ALL of the following

1. an HSS-capable ETTL strobe, and
   
2. an HSS-capable radio trigger and receiver
   
3. an HSS-capable ETTL camera
   

#1 it doesnt have to be an ettl strobe. Godox AD360 is not ettl strobe but it can do hss (light pulse, not light tail/long burn).
All you need is the pre shutter open signal to trigger the light pulse. You can use YN622/TX, Phottix Odin, Pixel King etc.for this purpose.

nixland wrote in post #17719943
#1 it doesnt have to be an ettl strobe. Godox AD360 is not ettl strobe but it can do hss (light pulse, not light tail/long burn).
All you need is the pre shutter open signal to trigger the light pulse. You can use YN622/TX, Phottix Odin, Pixel King etc.for this purpose.

Hmmm, it USED TO BE true that you needed ETTL in order to support HSS. In digging a little, I learnd that not only the AD360 supports HSS (without ETTL) but a firmware update also allows the Profoto B1 (an ETTL capable speedlight) to add HSS -- which was not previously supported. The changing world of lighting

Spats139 wrote in post #17719366
11:00 AM in full sun from camera right. Fill with single Phottix Mitros +, and Phottix Odin Tx on camera.

Hosted photo: posted by Spats139 in
./showthread.php?p=177​19366&i=i59969208
forum: Flash and Studio Lighting

I think here using flash in under max sync speed and sticking a ND filter would have done better. I know HSS is all the rage but sometimes old school works better as you have lot more power to play with. Another way would have been to move the model so sun is at the back and then shoot with HSS. I use to use 2 flashes in HSS in a kacey dish and gave up due to lack of power.

It's a good point about the ND filters (I recently picked up a couple - 3 stop and 6 stop), but for this shoot it was part of my goal to work on the HSS. I hadn't really spent any time trying it out before, and I was interested in finding out how the Mitros+ and Odin combination would work, and to start to get an idea of what their limitations might be; I'm also looking forward to doing something similar with the filters. I'm still enough of a newbie that I have a lot more work to do to gain the knowledge of what options will work best in different situations, and how the results will vary between them so that I will know where to start if I have a specific look in mind. Thanks again for taking the time to make the suggestion.