Lets See Your OCF HSS Outdoor Portraiture.

Angmo wrote in post #18248690
Get a few of those 5x7 flexible cloth reflectors. I have a few white/black sided ones.

That's what he used.

dmward wrote in post #18248864
The Elinchrom approach is similar to the Hyper-Sync approach that Pocket Wizard developed for its ControlTL system.

The Godox approach is to use the high frequency pulsing strobe to create a "flat burn" type flash for the duration of shutter travel.

Both work, both have limitations. One relies on an electronic firing circuit, the other relies on the slowly dimming tail of light from an Xeon tube after the initial flash.

Ive not met any limitations. I'm pretty happy.

Angmo wrote in post #18248946
Ive not met any limitations. I'm pretty happy.

Good. I started with the Hyper Sync approach when it was first implemented by PW. It was a welcome addition to the toolkit.
Now the high output TTL/HSS capabilities fro Godox et al are, for me, a more convenient solution.

To me the power of HSS strobes is still the limitation. Nowhere in any XPLOR600 review anyone mention power loss with HSS. I think HyperSync ones are better in that regard. I see folks mention killing ambient with XPLOR600 but my tests (with softbox) only show it match ambient at max power. Next time there is sale on that 1200ws extension head, I am going to order it.

bobbyz wrote in post #18249249
To me the power of HSS strobes is still the limitation. Nowhere in any XPLOR600 review anyone mention power loss with HSS. I think HyperSync ones are better in that regard. I see folks mention killing ambient with XPLOR600 but my tests (with softbox) only show it match ambient at max power. Next time there is sale on that 1200ws extension head, I am going to order it.

Bobby,
With both approaches the power available is the same where its below or above x sync speed presuming the capacitor is full.
At x sync and below a voltage controlled strobe fires and there is a diminishing tail of light from the bright flash. With IGBT controlled strobes there is also a tail at full power. Below full power the flash is quenched by the power circuitry.

Above x sync Hyper sync uses the tail to continue exposing the image. That's why lower power setting are better. The tail ramp is flatter. With IGBT the strobe uses a HSS technique which rapidly flashes the strobe for a time sufficient for the shutter curtain slit to cross the sensor.

In either case there is a finite amount of power available in the capacitor to energize the flash tube. Since the power is being distributed across time when implementing HSS and the peak is flattened in favor of having it last longer the luminance is spread over time and requires a different exposure.

Hyper Sync, at full power is closer to x sync for initial exposure with a heavier gradient as the tail power diminishes as the shutter travels.

As for "over powering the sun" that's a very circumstantial requirement. I've been successful using AD360, AD600 and even speedlites. I've also had them less than sufficient. As photographers we are always having to adapt to the situation.

I do like having the H1200 head available. Its now my default head when outside in a sunny situation. I start with one pack attached and a second in the car, just in case.

dmward wrote in post #18249277
I do like having the H1200 head available. Its now my default head when outside in a sunny situation. I start with one pack attached and a second in the car, just in case.

Are there any cons at all to just using one XPLOR connected to the H1200?

The Elinchrom HiSync with the Ranger RX AS Speed using the S head is so nice as the S Head flash duration is longer than say the Action head. The long burn provides a beautiful exposure even at 1/8000. With 1,100 WS there's plenty to play with. Even with the Strobe 20-30 feet from the subject. Modifiers of pretty much any kind can be used.

I've used hypersync in full sun for the last couple years, just switched to Godox gear with HSS. It will be strobe-dependant, but in my experience you lose almost a stop of light using HSS over hypersync (not to mention the extra battery power necessary for HSS).

So why swap gear for something less effective in full sun? ND filters will always trump HSS and hypersync in those times when you need f16 power.

As much as I hate filters, it seems simpler (and cheaper) than carrying around 1200ws strobes.

fashionrider wrote in post #18250124
Are there any cons at all to just using one XPLOR connected to the H1200?

None that I've noticed. Maybe the fact that there is a loose cable end. Performance etc. its just the same.

rebelsimon wrote in post #18250196
I've used hypersync in full sun for the last couple years, just switched to Godox gear with HSS. It will be strobe-dependant, but in my experience you lose almost a stop of light using HSS over hypersync (not to mention the extra battery power necessary for HSS).

So why swap gear for something less effective in full sun? ND filters will always trump HSS and hypersync in those times when you need f16 power.

As much as I hate filters, it seems simpler (and cheaper) than carrying around 1200ws strobes.

That may be. I've schlepped 15KG of camera gear around the Himalayia mountains for a couple weeks. Out there 1KG turns to 3KG by the end of the stroll... Weight does not bother me. I bring what I need. One Filter or tons of gear. It's the shoot that requires it. Not me.

bobbyz wrote in post #18249249
To me the power of HSS strobes is still the limitation. Nowhere in any XPLOR600 review anyone mention power loss with HSS. I think HyperSync ones are better in that regard. I see folks mention killing ambient with XPLOR600 but my tests (with softbox) only show it match ambient at max power. Next time there is sale on that 1200ws extension head, I am going to order it.

There is always a power loss when using HSS and battery consumption compared to straight flash power. I can shoot just fine with the 525Ws godox ad600/ explor600 /cl-600x in full sun I don't ever need to add another 7 pounds / another 525Ws when I'm only using 1/4 most of the time. I'm a hard light shooter, but look at fjhphotography amazing soft light images with a 360

Shot with a Russian lens the other day and came up with this =)

BTS video: https://youtu.be/euhIu​2MiVgs

Lighting:
1 XPLOR 600 on 1/4th in a 5ft fotodiox octabox camera right set off by the R2 transmitter.

Exif:
Sony a6500 + 85mm
f/2 - 1/4000th - ISO 100

fjhphotography wrote in post #18253314
Shot with a Russian lens the other day and came up with this =)


Lighting:
1 XPLOR 600 on 1/4th in a 5ft fotodiox octabox camera right set off by the R2 transmitter.


BTS

Hosted photo: posted by fjhphotography in
./showthread.php?p=182​53314&i=i189839256
forum: Flash and Studio Lighting

How do you like that octobox?

I really like it but it's a bit of a hassle outdoors which is why I have someone holding the light always. If shooting on a windy day I'll use my 38" ParaPop.

Dood!!! Congrats on the Petapixel article.