I didn't realize that the Tamron lens would have this issue. I won't be using it again or even thinking about buying it.
I didn't realize that the Tamron lens would have this issue. I won't be using it again or even thinking about buying it.
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Jun 14, 2015 01:48 | #32 In my experience, panning relies both on practice and physiology, particularly at high magnification. Strength is a factor because muscle fatigue from holding a camera with heavy lens will cause tremors and vibration. Avoiding sugary and caffeinated beverages to avoid jitters. A stable body platform and camera grip -- not gripping the camera tightly but supporting the camera and lens solidly with elbows tucked-in to the body -- to minimize unwanted movement. Smooth motion from the waist and a gentle and smooth press of the shutter button. -- Mark | Gear | Flickr
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Jun 15, 2015 11:09 | #33 seaninsa wrote in post #17596170 I didn't realize that the Tamron lens would have this issue. I won't be using it again or even thinking about buying it. I really think you should give the new 100-400 a try. I rented it from Borrowlenses.com. I think it was $105 for 3 days. I've rented from them 3 times now and have gotten excellent service. But popular lenses usually need to be reserved in advance. When you see my camera gear you'll think I'm a pro.
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Yeah I will stick with the 100-400.
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Jun 16, 2015 12:47 | #35 bumpintheroad wrote in post #17596200 In my experience, panning relies both on practice and physiology, particularly at high magnification. Strength is a factor because muscle fatigue from holding a camera with heavy lens will cause tremors and vibration. Avoiding sugary and caffeinated beverages to avoid jitters. A stable body platform and camera grip -- not gripping the camera tightly but supporting the camera and lens solidly with elbows tucked-in to the body -- to minimize unwanted movement. Smooth motion from the waist and a gentle and smooth press of the shutter button. You don't need IS to capture these kinds of photos, but it makes it much easier. However, if your IS doesn't support panning mode you might be better off disabling it rather than allowing it to possibly fight your panning motion. Some other suggestions based on some assumptions -- possibly wrong -- from the example photo you posted. The image you posted has artifacts that lead me to believe this was underexposed and heavily cropped. If you shot at 600mm and still had to crop significantly you are shooting from too far away. Cropping will increase the appearance of any motion blur, and at distances far enough to need to crop while shooting a 600mm lens you've got serious potential for distortion due to humidity, dust, pollution and even atmospheric heat gradients. My estimate from your photo's EXIF and the scene lighting and brightness is you pushed 1.5-2 stops in post, maybe more. Underexposing and pushing in post is going to affect noise, detail and contrast. You would be better off -- particularly with a 1DX -- bumping the ISO so the plane is properly exposed then recovering the highlights in post. So don't blame the lens, or at least don't blame it entirely. Technique is responsible for a huge amount of the result. Remember that folks successfully shot aircraft-in-flight for decades before IS was developed and managed to get great photos. IS has increased the keeper rate but didn't create this category of photography.
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BigAl007 Cream of the Crop 8,118 posts Gallery: 556 photos Best ofs: 1 Likes: 1681 Joined Dec 2010 Location: Repps cum Bastwick, Gt Yarmouth, Norfolk, UK. More info | Jul 30, 2015 08:02 | #36 Perfectly Frank wrote in post #17553510 I bought the Tamron 150-600 last year and used it at the Wings Over Camarillo Air Show with my 1D4. I've been shooting Warbirds for about 6 yrs and consider myself reasonably good at panning. I've shot with the Canon 300 f2.8 IS II, 500 f4 IS II, and 200-400. Although others can pan better, I can shoot at 1/160s (@ 420mm and 560mm) and bring home a bucket full of keepers. But...when I shot prop planes with my Tamron 150-600, my keeper rate was dreadful. I'd view the images on the LCD and saw most had a great amount of motion blur. VC was on. I increased the shutter speed but the results were still pretty bad. I turned off VC and got slightly better results. If you check around the net you'll see other prop-plane shooters using the Tammy with similar complaints. One is a member here (BigAl, I believe). The Tammy does not have mode 2 IS (for panning) like our Canon lenses. Some one, I can't remember where (maybe here or at dpr) said they contacted Tamron tech support about poor panning results. Tech rep told them not to use VC when panning. Now in defense of the Tamron 150-600 there is a flickr member who gets great results panning at slow shutter speeds with his Tammy. My hat's off to him. But I could not get it to work, so I ebayed it. For static shots the Tammy's IQ was great. But I bought it for air shows, so I had to give it up.
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Jul 31, 2015 10:39 | #37 ^^ Great flickr shots, Alan. And thanks for the extra info about the Tammy. When you see my camera gear you'll think I'm a pro.
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Jul 31, 2015 10:43 | #38 Hey, Seaninsa, don't forget next month...Wings Over Camarillo When you see my camera gear you'll think I'm a pro.
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Flynlow Member 114 posts Likes: 436 Joined Sep 2015 More info Post edited over 7 years ago by Flynlow. (2 edits in all) | Jan 20, 2016 13:12 | #39 You were shooting Dreadnought!! This is a very fast Sea Fury. As others have said, if you're not panning fast enough, you won't get the shot. Sometimes, you're just not going to get the shot... they go by very quickly! seaninsa wrote in post #17550157 Here is one of the blurred images. Jack Fleetwood | Hutto, TX | Canon 1DX iii | Canon 1DX ii | Canon 1DX | Canon 70-200 f/2.8 IS iii | Canon 24-105 IS
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BigAl007 Cream of the Crop 8,118 posts Gallery: 556 photos Best ofs: 1 Likes: 1681 Joined Dec 2010 Location: Repps cum Bastwick, Gt Yarmouth, Norfolk, UK. More info | Jan 22, 2016 14:46 | #40 Since this thread has bumped back up again, I thought I would let you know that I got the Sigma 150-600 C, and just in time for the last show of the UK season at the Shuttleworth collection at Old Warden Beds. I took some stunning shots at 600mm 1/160s. I made a 30×20 print of this image, so had to up size it to 9000×6000 pixels (the lab requires the image to be sized to 300PPI for the service that I was using). I took a couple of 100% crops from the resized image that was simply exported from the LR print module. I was very pleased that this image was selected as a best of, this time shot at a slightly wider 516mm Even with 600mm I find that to get some of the better angles of aircraft I still need to make very significant crops. These have all been cropped by a factor of 1.5×, they represent a sensor area of only 15×10mm compared to the full 22.5×15 of a Canon crop sensor. Here are a couple that have not been posted before, again both still with the additional 1.5× crop, giving an effective focal length on the 50D of 900mm. Image hosted by forum (771468) © BigAl007 [SHARE LINK] THIS IS A LOW QUALITY PREVIEW. Please log in to see the good quality stuff. Image hosted by forum (771469) © BigAl007 [SHARE LINK] THIS IS A LOW QUALITY PREVIEW. Please log in to see the good quality stuff. I really cannot recommend the Sigma 150-600mm C highly enough. I now have the Sigma dock and will be trying it out with various different options for the AF and OS system as regards to speed etc. I will also probably do the full 16 point MFA, as I have ML on the 50D, which can automate doing the Dot Tune method, so should speed things up a bit. Alan
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PhotosGuy Cream of the Crop, R.I.P. More info | Jan 22, 2016 15:25 | #41 Flynlow wrote in post #17865947 ... I use 1/80 if the plane is taking off or landing, I used to do that too, until I realized that the prop is loafing along on landing & going like H on takeoff! FrankC - 20D, RAW, Manual everything...
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Snydremark my very own Lightrules moment More info | Jan 22, 2016 15:32 | #42 seaninsa wrote in post #17550207 Why would i shoot a prop plane so fast? When shooting props if you shoot that fast you are going to have still props and looks horrible. With props you want to be anywhere between 1/160th to maybe 1/250th of a second. Thousands of a sec I am going to have "Frozen" props and the pics are going to be horrible. I know this an old thread, but still going to throw this in there. If the question is whether or not the lens is a problem, this would be a basic, troubleshooting step that you can do as the photographer; simply removing the known, potential problem of having too slow of a shutter speed. Once you've answered that question you can move on to other steps if it doesn't solve the problem, or find that that is the thing you need to work on. - Eric S.: My Birds/Wildlife
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Flynlow Member 114 posts Likes: 436 Joined Sep 2015 More info | Jan 22, 2016 15:38 | #43 I like 1/80 because I can slow the prop and still keep the photo sharp. On takeoff or landing, the plane itself is moving slow, but on a high-speed pass there's no chance of getting a good panning shot at 1/80. PhotosGuy wrote in post #17868715 I used to do that too, until I realized that the prop is loafing along on landing & going like H on takeoff! The F-4 is 1/60 sec. @ 400mm w/70-200 f/2.8 w/2X TC & no IS. F4U-5 Corsair Some panning threads for Seaninsa: First shoot with moving cars need advice. First Attempt at Panning Jack Fleetwood | Hutto, TX | Canon 1DX iii | Canon 1DX ii | Canon 1DX | Canon 70-200 f/2.8 IS iii | Canon 24-105 IS
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Jan 29, 2016 14:32 | #44 Flynlow wrote in post #17865947 The second image is 1/250. I didn't get the full prop circle, but it's still blurred. It's still a great image! When you see my camera gear you'll think I'm a pro.
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Jan 29, 2016 14:35 | #45 Snydremark wrote in post #17868722 One thing that's a relatively new development on the Tammy front, since this thread started, is that they have subsequently released a firmware update for this lens to fix the troubles with VC not working while panning. Anyone that has this lens and suspects they're running into that (most aircraft photogs that own it, I would imagine) should check their serial number against the site and send the lens in for free update if it falls in the quoted serial number ranges. Good to know. I never could get my Tammy to work with prop planes at slow shutter speeds. When you see my camera gear you'll think I'm a pro.
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