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FORUMS Photo Sharing & Discussion Transportation 
Thread started 08 May 2015 (Friday) 00:21
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BigAl007
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Feb 25, 2016 12:24 |  #46

I have mentioned using a shoulder stock/pod to aid panning with long lenses. I finally got some shots of the system that I have put together and used with my Sigma 150-600 C in the examples in this thread. It was put together using one of those cheap 15mm tube systems sold for building DSLR Video rigs. I think it cost around £25 from Amazon, my daughter bought it as a gift.

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For the first shoot I just taped a temote release to the front handel. I will be mounting a coulpe of buttons in it for future use, and might even use an AR15 style pistol grip at the front instead.

Using this rig makes panning smoothly so much easier, just like swinging a shotgun really. I can even manage a full 180 degree swing from my wheelchair. Not something I can do with the shotgun, because it's a lot shorter stocked I think. Normally the sjotgun is held across the body more, while the camera pod is held out square from the shoulders, more like a pistol in a Weaver stance.

Alan

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rgfrison
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Feb 26, 2016 18:38 |  #47

^^^ kind of a cool gadget,

A monopod or a tripod with a loose ballhead also helps, but it still takes lots of practice.
There are tons of great images taken with the Tammy 150-600 but without a dedicated panning mode, the IS may do more harm than good. I have never used the 150-600, but the canons I have owned 100-400L, 70-200 2.8 L, and 70-300 non L the mode 2 stabilization works very well.


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Road ­ Dog
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Feb 26, 2016 22:31 |  #48

seaninsa wrote in post #17550207 (external link)
Why would i shoot a prop plane so fast? When shooting props if you shoot that fast you are going to have still props and looks horrible. With props you want to be anywhere between 1/160th to maybe 1/250th of a second. Thousands of a sec I am going to have "Frozen" props and the pics are going to be horrible.

Well, how'd that 1/200 of a second work out for you?

I'm not asking that to be a wise ass. I'm asking that because you don't seem to think that 1/200 of a second could be the most significant part of the problem.

Like you mentioned earlier, as a general rule of thumb, if you're shooting a 600mm lens, you're going to want a minimum shutter speed of 1/600 of a second. Anything less and you can expect to come away with images like the one you provided here...


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BigAl007
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Mar 04, 2016 17:51 |  #49

Road Dog wrote in post #17914550 (external link)
Well, how'd that 1/200 of a second work out for you?

I'm not asking that to be a wise ass. I'm asking that because you don't seem to think that 1/200 of a second could be the most significant part of the problem.

Like you mentioned earlier, as a general rule of thumb, if you're shooting a 600mm lens, you're going to want a minimum shutter speed of 1/600 of a second. Anything less and you can expect to come away with images like the one you provided here...

Well a support system like the one I use helps. Also shooting digital helps in that exposures are essentially free. Often if you fire a quick three shot burst, the first shot will have veftical movement from depressing the shutter button. The middle shot will be OK. While the last shot also ends up with vertical movement as you come off the shutter. Then it is just a lot of practice to get good results. Fixed wing prop planes are not too bad as I find 1/160s produces a decent amount of blur. The really difficult ones are the large helicopters that need speeds down as low as 1/60.

Rgfrison I find that for aircraft a tripod or monopod just gets in the way, I just end up tripping over them trying to go from far left to far right during the pass, or the other direction. The classic twist at the hips is what works well for me.

Alan


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