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Thread started 27 May 2015 (Wednesday) 18:49
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Charlie
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Mar 31, 2016 23:17 |  #15571

Make sure you don't have a UV filter and test a parallel wall. IBIS off, 5-10 second shutter release. Focus wide open, once on center, once on corner in case of field curvature.


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vinmunoz
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Mar 31, 2016 23:21 |  #15572

Let me add a tripod to the above.


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alfredomora
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Mar 31, 2016 23:21 |  #15573

vinmunoz wrote in post #17956575 (external link)
Really bad for F8. So it was sharp when you use the focus magnify? What was your shutterspeed?

Shutterspeed was 1/200sec at ISO100. Could be user error. This lens is tricky to focus for me.

Charlie wrote in post #17956578 (external link)
Make sure you don't have a UV filter and test a parallel wall. IBIS off, 5-10 second shutter release. Focus wide open, once on center, once on corner in case of field curvature.

Yep agree. No UV filter. Will try the shutter release next time. I was using the 2 sec timer on the camera. Thank you. I will keep testing.


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EverydayGetaway
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Post edited over 7 years ago by EverydayGetaway. (2 edits in all)
     
Mar 31, 2016 23:25 |  #15574

vinmunoz wrote in post #17956563 (external link)
thank you.

Another before and after. I didn't like the background so photoshop to the rescue.

Lens used was the Minolta 50mm F1.4X-PG

I don't know, I usually love your edits, but I'm not feeling this one. To me the background looks really out of place, it seems surreal (and not in the good way... although now that I'm looking at it as I type this response, I think it could look really cool gone full blown surreal, like space or something ;) )


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vinmunoz
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Mar 31, 2016 23:26 |  #15575

at 1/200 for a 21mm you don't need a tripod and a cable release or a timer. Plus you have IBIS. Have you set your IBIS to 21?


| SONY A7SIII(2) | A73 | A6000 | Sony A7IV | Sigma105 | FE1635F4 | Tamron 70-180mm F2.8 | Tamron 17-28 Tamron 28-75 | FE50F1.8 | Sony 16035F4PZ | SEL30mm F3.5 Macro | Canon 24mm TSE | Laowa 15mm Shift
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alfredomora
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Mar 31, 2016 23:35 |  #15576

vinmunoz wrote in post #17956590 (external link)
at 1/200 for a 21mm you don't need a tripod and a cable release or a timer. Plus you have IBIS. Have you set your IBIS to 21?

Doesn't IBIS automatically detect the focal length given that it's a native lens? I was using a tripod for my test shots today. I did shoot a wall earlier today. At 2.8 it's soft in the corners and improves a bit at f5.6. Upper left corner was sharper than the rest.


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vinmunoz
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Mar 31, 2016 23:45 |  #15577

i'm not sure. I thought all manual focus lens doesn't have any electronics.


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EverydayGetaway
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Mar 31, 2016 23:47 |  #15578

vinmunoz wrote in post #17956598 (external link)
i'm not sure. I thought all manual focus lens doesn't have any electronics.

The Loxia lenses are unique (and so are the Zeiss lenses in Nikon and EF mount if I remember right), they do have electronic contacts and will allow for the auto-zoom feature when manually focusing. This is a large part of what had me torn between the Loxia 50mm and the Sonnar 55mm, in the end the performance was so similar that it was worth it to just get the one with AF (thanks again by the way! :) )


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Eddie
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Mar 31, 2016 23:49 |  #15579

digital_AM wrote in post #17956524 (external link)
Very nice Vinz!

So I don't know if I need more practicing manually focus with my Loxia 21 or if I don't have a sharp copy. I'm underwhelmed by how soft my images are turning out even at f8 or f11. I was expecting much sharper especially using a tripod with IBIS off. I'll post a few samples shortly.

Only changes to this image are minor noise reduction, set camera calibration to camera standard in LR, and some contrast adjustment. No vibrance or saturation added. No sharpening added.

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://alfredomora.sm​ugmug.com …i-Pg8LM2r-XL.jpg&lb=1&s=A  (external link) on Smugmug

and here is the 100% crop from the upper right side. Looks a little mushy to me but so did the left side of the frame in the trees in the background.


QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://alfredomora.sm​ugmug.com …i-mCBhk4J-XL.jpg&lb=1&s=A  (external link) on Smugmug

This one was processed through my normal workflow with sharpening in PS CC


QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://alfredomora.sm​ugmug.com …i-4L4Q2bq-XL.jpg&lb=1&s=A  (external link) on Smugmug

the review on Phillip Reeves site says diffraction is visible by f/11. They say on there to use 2.8-5.6


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vinmunoz
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Mar 31, 2016 23:51 |  #15580

nice to know... and you're welcome again. i hope that's still better than the incoming 50mm f1.8 so you won't have buyer's remorse. :(


| SONY A7SIII(2) | A73 | A6000 | Sony A7IV | Sigma105 | FE1635F4 | Tamron 70-180mm F2.8 | Tamron 17-28 Tamron 28-75 | FE50F1.8 | Sony 16035F4PZ | SEL30mm F3.5 Macro | Canon 24mm TSE | Laowa 15mm Shift
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alfredomora
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Apr 01, 2016 00:01 |  #15581

xpfloyd wrote in post #17956603 (external link)
the review on Phillip Reeves site says diffraction is visible by f/11. They say on there to use 2.8-5.6

Thanks Eddie. I think I'm going to return this copy and get one from B&H. Reason is I saw some full res images from a blogger shot at f2.8 and they were clearly sharper than mine.


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EverydayGetaway
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Apr 01, 2016 00:06 |  #15582

vinmunoz wrote in post #17956606 (external link)
nice to know... and you're welcome again. i hope that's still better than the incoming 50mm f1.8 so you won't have buyer's remorse. :(

Haha, nah, I'm pretty happy with it so far ;)

I would be amazed if the 50/1.8 turns out better, but it wouldn't make the Zeiss any worse. Honestly the main thing I'm struggling with now is if I want to get the X-Pro2 and if I did that and loved it, I don't know that I'd keep any of my Sony gear :eek: I don't see myself switching until there's a decent sized price drop though even if I do decide to go that route. And that'll be one of the few times where I'll be renting first to try it out first hand.


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Apr 01, 2016 00:11 as a reply to  @ EverydayGetaway's post |  #15583

MirrorLessons' Mat just has recently reviewed the xpro2 + Fuji 100-400 for BIF and with surprisingly good results with the xpro2's OVF which has ZERO shutteer
lag. Very impressive to me and for lots of reasons. Alas I'm so deep in the Canon world, the Sony world and the Lumix world (over 60 lenses in total for all) that I
refulse to go down another path as good as it looks.
If you get the xpro2 I bet you will love love love it.


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vinmunoz
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Apr 01, 2016 00:14 |  #15584

is Xpro2 and APS-C?


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EverydayGetaway
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Post edited over 7 years ago by EverydayGetaway.
     
Apr 01, 2016 00:18 |  #15585

MedicineMan4040 wrote in post #17956627 (external link)
MirrorLessons' Mat just has recently reviewed the xpro2 + Fuji 100-400 for BIF and with surprisingly good results with the xpro2's OVF which has ZERO shutteer
lag. Very impressive to me and for lots of reasons. Alas I'm so deep in the Canon world, the Sony world and the Lumix world (over 60 lenses in total for all) that I
refulse to go down another path as good as it looks.
If you get the xpro2 I bet you will love love love it.

Yeah. I've had an interesting quest the past couple of years...

I started with a Canon 6D and got a taste for awesome high-ISO performance. I supplemented it with a Fuji X-E1 and soon found that I rarely used the 6D anymore and it basically felt like a chore when I needed to, but I needed to at times because it's ISO performance was so much better... so I got the a7S as a one camera solution to suit both needs, but very soon after started missing my Fuji, so I got the X-E2 and I have to admit that now the a7S is almost fitting the same path that the 6D did, I just really enjoy using the Fuji more and since I'm not doing this for a living it's really compelling to just commit fully to Fuji even though I'll admit that the a7S has the better images, the Fuji is just more fun to use... and it seems that the X-Pro2 makes the gap in image quality even smaller (it's already pretty small at anything ISO1600 and lower in my opinion).

I really don't know that I could give up getting very usable images above ISO50k though...

vinmunoz wrote in post #17956631 (external link)
is Xpro2 and APS-C?

Yes, but the more I shoot both formats (X-E2 and a7S) the harder I find it to see the difference between the two (except for in high ISO performance).


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