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Thread started 27 May 2015 (Wednesday) 18:49
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David ­ Arbogast
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Jun 11, 2016 10:26 |  #19006

eriet30 wrote in post #18036045 (external link)
I should never read fred miranda forums that go into silly subjects like decentering lenses.

Not a silly subject...you should thoroughly test your 10mm so I'll know it's a perfect copy when you sell it to me. :p


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Charlie
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Jun 11, 2016 10:33 |  #19007

I put both the strap and to the bottom of the L plate. Has to do with them flapping when used with a tripod which lead to that choice it doesn't work as good as Gene's method but I prefer it like that since I'll shoot from tripod more often than use a strap.


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eriet30
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Jun 11, 2016 10:37 |  #19008

David Arbogast wrote in post #18036047 (external link)
Not a silly subject...you should thoroughly test your 10mm so I'll know it's a perfect copy when you sell it to me. :p

All i read was how every lens was decentered and QC is horrible etc etc.

What do i shoot to do a test shot for you .... Brick wall or something?


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Jun 11, 2016 10:45 |  #19009

navydoc wrote in post #18036037 (external link)
Speaking of these anchors breaking, did you know...

(I didn't)

When I read up on the broken one I learned that they were mk1 versions. Peak then at one point changed to mk2 with a different material and now they are on mk3 using dyneema. They actually scrapped 50,000 mk2s to bring the dyneema ones to market quicker


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Post edited over 7 years ago by navydoc.
     
Jun 11, 2016 10:49 |  #19010

Well for now, I've added one of my Domke camera straps to the a6300 via Peak Design anchors. I haven't decided yet whether I'll replace the Domke strap with another PD "Leash" or hand strap, either the "Cuff" or the "Clutch". My first inclination is to get another "Leash" so that I can have both hands free when I want them to be when in the field.

*David A may like this setup since the PD "Leash" feels too thin for him. :-)

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Post edited over 7 years ago by Eddie.
     
Jun 11, 2016 10:50 |  #19011

eriet30 wrote in post #18036051 (external link)
All i read was how every lens was decentered and QC is horrible etc etc.

What do i shoot to do a test shot for you .... Brick wall or something?

I like fM forums but they do focus much much more on optical flaws/issues etc than anywhere else. That's why I cancelled my first a7rii order as I read on there how bad a camera it was with hot pixels etc. Finally came to my senses though. fM forums will check a lens that comes out then everyone fixates on the tiniest of flaws if found. A lens is useless if the last 2% of the extreme corner isn't sharp sort of attitude.

Like I say I still enjoy that site but it can scare you off purchases sometimes


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David ­ Arbogast
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Post edited over 7 years ago by David Arbogast. (2 edits in all)
     
Jun 11, 2016 10:52 |  #19012

eriet30 wrote in post #18036051 (external link)
All i read was how every lens was decentered and QC is horrible etc etc.

What do i shoot to do a test shot for you .... Brick wall or something?

Testing is actually simple. Put the camera (set to f/9 or so) on a tripod and center the view up on a focal object of your choice (I use a road sign, which has sharp lines that are easy to focus on). Then, with the camera still on the tripod, move the camera view so the focal object is in each corner (and take a picture).

Examine the corners of each of the four photos on your PC (zoom to 100%) and see if any corner(s) look obviously more blurry than the others. If so, it's de-centered. Don't worry if a corner is slightly less sharp, it's unlikely your copy is perfectly centered.

Fred and others claim that focusing the camera first with the subject dead center might ruin the test due to field curvature, but I disagree in three ways:

1. you're just testing for relative sharpness asymmetry, field curvature won't affect that, and

2. focusing first on a centered subject will show you exactly which corner is decentered, and

3. this is a real-world test method and I am just trying to confirm the lens is performing well in real-world usage.


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Jun 11, 2016 10:54 |  #19013

navydoc wrote in post #18036057 (external link)
Well for now, I've added one of my Domke camera straps to the a6300 via Peak Design anchors. I haven't decided yet whether I'll replace the Domke strap with another PD "Leash" or hand strap, either the "Cuff" or the "Clutch". My first inclination is to get another "Leash" so that I can have both hands free when I want them to be when in the field.

*David A may like this setup since the PD "Leash" feels too thin for him. :-)

.

I like a wrist strap most of the time and use a lance camera straps one mainly. My favourite current strap is an artisan and artist one that has a neat way of shortening or lengthening with one hand but it's not quick release. I need to find a way of adapting it to the peak system so that I can switch between that and the leash.

I checked out the PD cuff but it looks too long. I'll check out the clutch as hadn't heard of that


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Jun 11, 2016 10:57 |  #19014

David Arbogast wrote in post #18036060 (external link)
Testing is actually simple. Put the camera (set to f/9 or so) on a tripod and center the view up on a focal object of your choice (I use a road sign, which has sharp lines that are easy to focus on). Then, with the camera still on the tripod, move the camera view so the focal object is in each corner (and take a picture).

Examine the corners of each of the four photos on your PC (zoom to 100%) and see if any corner(s) look obviously more blurry than the others. If so, it's de-centered. Don't worry if a corner is slightly less sharp, it's unlikely your copy is perfectly centered.

Fred and others claim that focusing the camera first with the subject dead center might ruin the test due to field curvature, but I disagree in three ways:

1. you're just testing for relative sharpness asymmetry, field curvature won't affect that, and

2. focusing first on a centered subject will show you exactly which corner is decentered, and

3. this is a real-world test method and I am just trying to confirm the lens is performing well in real-world usage.

This is how i do it. Normally on a distant high building I can see from outside my house.

Eriet - just remember to not refocus after your initial centre focus


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Jun 11, 2016 10:58 |  #19015

sony a7 with rok fish and nd throttle,taken mid day.

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Puckman
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Jun 11, 2016 11:03 |  #19016

Charlie wrote in post #18035805 (external link)
Have some shots with the 70-300, and I think it's a keeper for me. The size is really great.

A tad soft wide open, but F8 is the sharpest, F11 if you want DOF.

Here's one F11 + 100%, processed, but no sharpening or noise reduction, @300mm

Looks nice. But how would you compare it to the FE 70-200?

navydoc wrote in post #18035935 (external link)
Vinz, to my eye, this image is tilted down on the right to keep the bench edge vertical. If you tilt the image so that the back of the bench and seat are horizontal, the back edge will be tilted back as it should be and the bench legs will then be vertical.

Sorry, it's just destracting my eye from the subject of the image.

(I extended the top of the image to be sure there was enough 'head room' before I straightened the bench then didn't bother to remove it)

I honestly don't know how you were able to focus your attention on the bench. :)


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genesimmons
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Jun 11, 2016 11:05 |  #19017

sony a7 with minolta 35-70 macro. forgot i had this lens

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OLYMPUS EM1 M2. 12-100 F4 PRO.75mm f1.8,fisheye f1.8 pro. SONY A7 various manual lenses. FUJI X100
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navydoc
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Jun 11, 2016 11:16 |  #19018

Puckman wrote in post #18036071 (external link)
...I honestly don't know how you were able to focus your attention on the bench. :)

It gets easier to do as you get closer to my age.  :p


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Jun 11, 2016 11:18 |  #19019

genesimmons wrote in post #18036074 (external link)
sony a7 with minolta 35-70 macro. forgot i had this lens

Nice shot. My copy of this lens sold today along with my ef 16-35


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Charlie
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Jun 11, 2016 11:20 |  #19020

another queen mary, black bars for instagram reason  :p

pain in the butt stacking, so gave up and left this way.

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