Sony A7x lounge

digital_AM wrote in post #18147306
Eddie, I'm using the iDisplay Pro and it does a great job. Not cheap but I feel it's worth the expense. See if there is a discount available.

+1 to this, got it on sale for 150, but you can definitely get something a lot cheaper. Reason I got the xrite was due to running dual monitors, now I only run a single monitor, and an old spyder2express/pro could do the job too.

great thing with the spyder is super simple registration with serial number, no need for internet or activation, ect. do it on as many pc's as you wish. No idea if it supports the latest OS though.

you can find old ones for like $20 on ebay..... xrite i1 works, but it's pricy, cant say I see much difference in calibrated displays.

as for prints, that depends on who's printing. With labs, I'm fine directly from export, but costco, I have to bump brightness a little.

xpfloyd wrote in post #18147316
Is that the X-rite one? I see that has an ambient light monitor that changes the screen luminance based on the ambient light. Does that mean the hardware is connected to your machine at all times when editing?

Yep that's the one. And yes I have it connected all the time but I have the ambient correction disabled. I typically only edit at night so I've setup my monitor brightness and contrast ratios for that.

It does look good but it's £170 here so looking at all options before deciding.

Thanks Charlie, I'll check that out too

xpfloyd wrote in post #18147316
Is that the X-rite one? I see that has an ambient light monitor that changes the screen luminance based on the ambient light. Does that mean the hardware is connected to your machine at all times when editing?

It has that ability, but you can disable it if you prefer. My main concern is getting color to be right. Monitor luminance, when editing photos, can be very tricky. Too dark a screen and you'll process your photos brighter than you want...and vice versa. From memory (I'm in KC right now, so it's not in front of me) I believe I have disabled the automated ambient control as I haven't found that it affects my work in a positive way.

I was using Spyder3Studio but then i bought Spyder4Elite, they all did great jobs, but i may change to X-Rite later one day to give it a try and to have different brands, still working on old models monitors so no need to upgrade the calibration yet, i forgot that i also has a navigation or whatever called calibration came with Eizo monitor i bought 22", but i didn't use it.

For what is worth, i am trying to use different tools even when taking the shots such as color checker or gray cards or whatever, i will try to get the best results as i can from my photography gear, i spent fortunes so it is time to put them on use rather than just shoot and wishing good luck!!!

David Arbogast wrote in post #18147339
It has that ability, but you can disable it if you prefer. My main concern is getting color to be right. Monitor luminance, when editing photos, can be very tricky. Too dark a screen and you'll process your photos brighter than you want...and vice versa. From memory (I'm in KC right now, so it's not in front of me) I believe I have disabled the automated ambient control as I haven't found that it affects my work in a positive way.

Getting the brightness/contrast dialed into my monitor has been the biggest challenge. Just takes trial and error.

Thanks for sharing the MW tutorial. since you brought that up, i tried one of my favorite MW.

digital_AM wrote in post #18147357
Getting the brightness/contrast dialed into my monitor has been the biggest challenge. Just takes trial and error.

Exactly. Whenever I post an image online, I always use my iPad to check it. If my image is too dark or bright then it tells my monitor is too bright or dark. I make the adjustment to the monitor and then try again. Eventually I got it so photos look exactly the same on the editing PC monitor.

The reason I use my iPad (not an iPhone or iMac) is because I regard it as a consumption device, not a production device, with an excellent nicely-sized screen. Since it has no color calibration capabilities, my thought is that it is a generic display useful as a reference monitor. If it looks right on my iPad, it likely looks right on everyone else's iPad.

David Arbogast wrote in post #18147381
Exactly. Whenever I post an image online, I always use my iPad to check it. If my image is too dark or bright then it tells my monitor is too bright or dark. I make the adjustment to the monitor and then try again. Eventually I got it so photos look exactly the same on the editing PC monitor.

The reason I use my iPad (not an iPhone or iMac) is because I regard it as a consumption device, not a production device, with an excellent nicely-sized screen. Since it has no color calibration capabilities, my thought is that it is a generic display useful as a reference monitor. If it looks right on my iPad, it likely looks right on everyone else's iPad.

And why we should make this iPad as reference? i have another tablet device android based and not calibrated at all, the photos on this tablet is way better than my iPad, also my daughter has a tablet i bought it for here also Android based and it is almost same as iPad quality, so why iPad should be the reference here? what if someone doesn't have iPad, what will be his reference? And what is the photos is good enough on different monitors because used a calibrated monitor does that mean it must be great on iPad?

Tareq wrote in post #18147389
And why we should make this iPad as reference? i have another tablet device android based and not calibrated at all, the photos on this tablet is way better than my iPad, also my daughter has a tablet i bought it for here also Android based and it is almost same as iPad quality, so why iPad should be the reference here? what if someone doesn't have iPad, what will be his reference? And what is the photos is good enough on different monitors because used a calibrated monitor does that mean it must be great on iPad?

I shared my thoughts about what I regard as effective for my needs. Those thoughts are not prescriptive towards others. I am uninterested in taking the time to defend those thoughts. If you find them flawed, so be it. I don't care.

vinmunoz wrote in post #18147379
Thanks for sharing the MW tutorial. since you brought that up, i tried one of my favorite MW.

Hosted photo: posted by vinmunoz in
./showthread.php?p=181​47379&i=i240040000
forum: Sony Digital Cameras

Nice color.

David Arbogast wrote in post #18147402
I shared my thoughts about what I regard as effective for my needs. Those thoughts are not prescriptive towards others. I am uninterested in taking the time to defend those thoughts. If you find them flawed, so be it. I don't care.

Don't get me wrong, i asked just for curiosity, and i want to learn, so if there is something special about iPad so you chose it then i would like to learn, sorry of my way but i felt like you want to make your post asif 1000%, some do that even it is not always correct or right, you may defend your finding or i may do the same with mine, but at the end we should get to the truth, it could be no one is wrong or right, it is just a matter of what we experienced.

David Arbogast wrote in post #18147403
Nice color.

Thank you.

Batis 25......

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/MJy7​7e

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/MJy7​Hz

I use an i1Display Pro. Why the i1Display Pro and not the Spyder equivalent? Because the i1Display Pro had better reviews. My main concern was quality, not so much price. Apart from that I often look at the histogram to see if everything looks good. The reason why I don't trust tablets is because everyone has their tablet set to a different brightness level.

X-Rite also has an iOS/Android app called ColorTRUE in which you can open your photos and see a calibrated and uncalibrated version of your photos. Of course you need to calibrate the app first with an X-Rite device.