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FORUMS Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Sony Digital Cameras 
Thread started 27 May 2015 (Wednesday) 18:49
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Sony A7x lounge

 
mystik610
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Sep 04, 2015 15:41 |  #4861

ISO 10,000

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Johnny010
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Sep 04, 2015 15:50 |  #4862

For anyone interested...I have just done a quick test with an LDR based light sensor I have "tuned" to give a voltage drop over the sort of sunset/twilight times...will be incorporating this in to my timelapse IR remote.

The graph shows from about half an hour before sunset to civil twilight.

The second graph is a crop of the first with a linear fit between Sunset and Civil Twilight.

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mystik610
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Sep 04, 2015 15:50 |  #4863

Looks like the FE90 has officially De-throned the FE 55 as th sharpest lens:

http://www.sonyalpharu​mors.com …-lens-ever-tested-at-dxo/ (external link)


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navydoc
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Sep 04, 2015 16:26 |  #4864

mystik610 wrote in post #17695153 (external link)
Looks like the FE90 has officially De-throned the FE 55 as th sharpest lens:

http://www.sonyalpharu​mors.com …-lens-ever-tested-at-dxo/ (external link)

Well, you won't get any arguments out of me. As an example, here's the image I posted above at full res. This is cropped at that.

https://farm6.staticfl​ickr.com …45619945_4cef36​5bdd_o.jpg (external link)


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MedicineMan4040
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Sep 04, 2015 16:34 as a reply to  @ Johnny010's post |  #4865

A certain brilliance going on here.


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alfredomora
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Sep 04, 2015 16:52 |  #4866

Hi guys, on a mini vacation in Arkansas visiting family. I spent the night in Dallas and got some nice skyline shots of downtown from the 20th floor of our hotel. Anyway, I was taking a closer look at my shots and noticed spots that appear to be from the window I was shooting through. Any good way to remove them in Photoshop? They look like dust spots. Most are visible if I zoom in. A bit disappointed. I hope I can salvage the shots.


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Eddie
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Post edited over 8 years ago by Eddie.
     
Sep 04, 2015 16:55 |  #4867

Spot removal tool. Very easy to sort that sort of thing. Select the tool and increase the size until it's just bigger than the spot/speck/dust whatever and then click it and it's gone


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Johnny010
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Sep 04, 2015 17:04 as a reply to  @ alfredomora's post |  #4868

Yeah, I just use either a spot removal tool or paint using an adjustment brush over more problematic blemishes.


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Sep 04, 2015 17:04 as a reply to  @ MedicineMan4040's post |  #4869

Ha thanks. I wish.


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alfredomora
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Sep 04, 2015 18:02 |  #4870

Thanks Eddie and Johnny.


- Alfredo -
Sony a7RII | Voightlander 12 f5.6 | Sony 16-35 GM f2.8 | Zeiss Batis 18 f2.8 | Zeiss Loxia 21 f2.8 | FE 55 f1.8 | Zeiss Loxia 85 f2.4 | Sony 100-400 GM |
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eriet30
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Sep 04, 2015 19:58 |  #4871

Wait i have something terribly wrong with the CV15.... there is a big "thing" in the way... do you see it in the upper left corner?

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EverydayGetaway
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Sep 04, 2015 21:42 |  #4872

a7S + Yashica ML 50/1.7

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Sep 04, 2015 22:13 |  #4873

A couple of weeks ago we hiked/camped in GSMNP; got an OK Milky Way while there and some elk but had forgotten I'd shot video of the Moon with the Rii + LAEA3 +70-400g2.
This image via extracting 74 frames from the 4K video, aligning the images, converting to smart object, then blending using median. Then I enlarged the image 400%-

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Johnny010
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Sep 05, 2015 05:58 |  #4874

Well...I have hit a hurdle.

The sony IR signal is the hex vaule 4b8f of 20bits being sent 3 times to trigger one shutter actuation.
This sucks because for some reason uknown to all gods, they decided there needs to be a minimum of a 40millisecond delay between each send.

So it looks a bit like this:

4b8f -------40ms ---------4b8f-----------40ms----------4b8f = Aprox 80-100ms

This means that no matter what you do, there is at least an 80ms (about 1/10second) delay to trigger the shutter. The maximum shutter speed in Bulb using the IR remote is 1/10s...
Damn.

So even if I can do a timelapse using my hacked IR method, the maximum shutter speed is 1/10 second. Even a parallel system will not work (as the IR freq is the same so you can not mix signals).

This is still a possibility as at 1/10s...the sunny 16 rule becomes more of a "sunny 45"rule...which few (if any) lenses can do. So maybe the over exposure of 2 stops could be a saver in this situation and the rule becomes "sunny 22". So shooting at 1/10 @ F22 @ ISO 100 could be fixed in another way I though.
Luckily the A7s allows ISO derivations less than 100 (only 50 mind) which takes off that "last" stop problem. So F22 @ ISO 50 @ 1/10s may be a slight over exposure...but possibly workable?

The problem of "a nice cinematic look" plays a problem...as 1/10 is not exactly 1/50 is it...there will be an quite a bit of motion blur when shooting people/cars/fast moving stuff.


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Sep 05, 2015 06:12 |  #4875

eriet30 wrote in post #17694155 (external link)
Hmmm the Voigtlander 15 viii showed up..... not a lot of time with it but it is ....'weird" feeling.

Not sure i like the focusing mechanism..... focus peaking really doesnt seem to work. Everything looks red but when i zoom nothing is in focus so that is disturbing.

Will put it through more paces tomorrow


I use mine wirhout focussing. F/8 or f/11 snf prefocus on 1m and im set


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