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FORUMS Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Sony Digital Cameras 
Thread started 27 May 2015 (Wednesday) 18:49
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eriet30
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Jan 13, 2016 12:08 |  #11731

vinmunoz wrote in post #17856443 (external link)
you have to make sure your exposure is correct first. then go white balance menu choose the one with the word "set".

then stand beside your model(facing where you're suppose to be standing taking pics). the camera will then prompt you to select one of the 3 custom white balance and just press set on the camera.



I thought her earrings were expo discs....

So I have one expo disc but i think it is in a 49mm ..... if i use it to set the WB then switch lenses is it still a good WB or do you really need to set it with the lens you will be using.


"Vision is the art of seeing that which is invisible"
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Charlie
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Jan 13, 2016 12:09 |  #11732

DTBaan wrote in post #17856645 (external link)
for ND, the most neutral ive seen are the haida 3.0. Lee's color cast as you see is on the blue side and yes they can be dealt with and sometimes the cool colors can even be nice depending on the outcome ;p

+1, haida over lee for sure.

LEE is simply outperformed by haida


Sony A7siii/A7iv/ZV-1 - FE 24/1.4 - SY 24/2.8 - FE 35/2.8 - FE 50/1.8 - FE 85/1.8 - F 600/5.6 - CZ 100-300 - Tamron 17-28/2.8 - 28-75/2.8 - 28-200 RXD
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bpaulette
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Jan 13, 2016 12:14 |  #11733

eriet30 wrote in post #17856667 (external link)
I thought her earrings were expo discs....

So I have one expo disc but i think it is in a 49mm ..... if i use it to set the WB then switch lenses is it still a good WB or do you really need to set it with the lens you will be using.

Different lenses transmit color differently, so it's usually a good idea to set WB while using the lens you'll be shooting with. But doing it with one lens, then switching will get you pretty close


- BP -
---------------
Sony A7R II | Sonnar FE 55 | Zeiss Batis 85 | FE 90 Macro G | Metabones IV
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DTBaan
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Jan 13, 2016 12:17 |  #11734

MedicineMan4040 wrote in post #17856305 (external link)
Baan I appreciate your taking the time.
I read this page:
http://www.dpreview.co​m/forums/thread/260079​0 (external link)
I have to agree with what one poster said...if you're making a living off of it go Lee, if not go Z-pro.
Hard decision because Iceland like everywhere else I've been is a one time thing :)

Truthfully the bigger issue is my lack of filter use knowledge...'spose I'll be watching some youtubes
between now and then....and it's not until end of May so I have time to learn and decide.

my pleasure, was rather a brief respond though ehhe

but we want the best we can afford right? :P like lens.. lower cost lens will do the job but we strive for the extra and pay $$$$ for them.

If you pp with softwares, you can get away with not having a GND especially if you have these nice sensors that allows you to lift shadows and recover highlights well. The only filters I use are ND and CPL and to be honest I don't use them that often. But as a traveler (you) they will come in handy when you are unable wait for the sun to come down. that's when ND comes in play. Other use for ND is when you want to shoot wide open in the day time but cant because its just too bright.

xpfloyd wrote in post #17856309 (external link)
I bought cokin originally and couldn't live with the colour cast as I struggled to remove it in post. That's when I switched to Lee. I appreciate its a big outlay though. I've built mine up over time.

What's your main intended uses as you may be able to keep it to a minimum? Sunsets, sunrises and waterfalls?

I didn't get cokin, but I had cheap ones to try and those color cast are just yuck and impossible to adjust wb on. and like you I went all out and settled with lee. what pouch did you get to store your filters in? Lee has a new one that looks pretty nice. worth taking a look at :D




  
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DTBaan
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Jan 13, 2016 12:23 |  #11735

mystik610 wrote in post #17856428 (external link)
It really does look like a toy and not a camera that anyone should take seriously. You should see the judgmental responses I'm getting from people right now when they find out how much the thing costs. First was my wife, who was irked that I would use our daughter's 11 month shoot to "test that little camera out". Fellow photog friends think I'm crazy for spending so much on a point and shoot.

I don't blame them...the camera is sort of ludicrous in a lot of ways, but it performs well where it matters and it s a lot of fun to shoot with.

FE 35 1.4 is gone for sure. FE 55 is already up for sale. That should recoup a good amount of the cost (got a pretty good price on this used at BH)....but might sell either the batis 25 or the SAL 135 1.8 too.

wow you slimming down your gear big time. I'm sure f2 is enough.




  
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alfredomora
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Jan 13, 2016 12:24 |  #11736

xpfloyd wrote in post #17856655 (external link)
I imagine that will be the case but im hoping that once I find my feet a bit I will be able to go my own way with things so that im not just trying to create clones of his shots (although I would be very happy if I could produce images in his style to that quality)

I never even thought of searching for her on flickr - thanks for the link!


Thanks Travis for the insight. I'm with Eddie on this. Will give it a good try to learn as much as possible. I think using luminosity masks and topaz remark will help speed making the selections which is often the most time consuming. I purchased his speed B&W workflow course last night.

Julia is awesome also. I find her a bit annoying though but she has excellent vision and execution.

TRhoads wrote in post #17856570 (external link)
Joel is an excellent photographer, and incredibly inspiring, I have had the pleasure of working with him in a black and white learning community...but you might end up like me at some point, frustrated and confused on how he does things, how he accomplishes the things he does...and will eventually figure out that he alters reality a lot...nothing wrong with that, its fine art after all...but he spends an ENORMOUS amount of time in post...weeks on some images. Another one to check out if you like that style is the co author of the last book he put out. https://www.flickr.com​/photos/juliagospodaro​u/ (external link)

TRhoads wrote in post #17856570 (external link)
Joel is an excellent photographer, and incredibly inspiring, I have had the pleasure of working with him in a black and white learning community...but you might end up like me at some point, frustrated and confused on how he does things, how he accomplishes the things he does...and will eventually figure out that he alters reality a lot...nothing wrong with that, its fine art after all...but he spends an ENORMOUS amount of time in post...weeks on some images. Another one to check out if you like that style is the co author of the last book he put out. https://www.flickr.com​/photos/juliagospodaro​u/ (external link)


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alfredomora
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Jan 13, 2016 12:29 |  #11737

Can someone recommend a square 100mm polarizer? Thomas Heaton uses one. I think it maybe made by Haida.


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Eddie
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Jan 13, 2016 12:40 |  #11738

DTBaan wrote in post #17856674 (external link)
what pouch did you get to store your filters in? Lee has a new one that looks pretty nice. worth taking a look at :D

I use this one - http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …are_Filter_Vale​t_Red.html (external link)

I had to order it from B&H and get it shipped across but really like it.


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Eddie
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Jan 13, 2016 12:41 |  #11739

digital_AM wrote in post #17856688 (external link)
Can someone recommend a square 100mm polarizer? Thomas Heaton uses one. I think it maybe made by Haida.

I use the Lee 4x4 CPL (Sorry I sound like a Lee salesman over the last couple of pages :) )


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Eddie
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Jan 13, 2016 12:47 |  #11740

digital_AM wrote in post #17856684 (external link)
Thanks Travis for the insight. I'm with Eddie on this. Will give it a good try to learn as much as possible. I think using luminosity masks and topaz remark will help speed making the selections which is often the most time consuming. I purchased his speed B&W workflow course last night.
.

Im thinking that the Raya Pro panel will help with all this as it does the light and dark masks with the click of a button. Ill check out that topaz though, havent seen that before. I was looking at the speed B&W workflow last night too, I will probably purchase that once I get going. Ive already got my first 4-5 locations worked out I just need the weather. Luckily Glasgow has loads of nice architecture old and new so I shouldnt really struggle for subjects close to home. Joel recommends a 60:40 split between clouds and sky. Just now ive got a 100:0 split.


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David ­ Arbogast
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Jan 13, 2016 12:48 |  #11741

Since I only use Canon-mount lenses, if I don't need more than 12 stops ND and if I am using my a7R II, then I have all I need with the Fotodiox ND Throttle. Love that thing. BTW, the Throttle only has a 10-stop variable ND, but adding a CPL on front bumps the assembly up to a 12-stop ND.

Strange thing: back when I had the a7R it gave me a slight hint of magenta (easily cleaned up), but ever since upgrading to a7R II that magenta cast seems to have disappeared. So, I'm loving it even more on the a7R II.


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David ­ Arbogast
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Jan 13, 2016 12:59 |  #11742

xpfloyd wrote in post #17856711 (external link)
Im thinking that the Raya Pro panel will help with all this as it does the light and dark masks with the click of a button. Ill check out that topaz though, havent seen that before. I was looking at the speed B&W workflow last night too, I will probably purchase that once I get going. Ive already got my first 4-5 locations worked out I just need the weather. Luckily Glasgow has loads of nice architecture old and new so I shouldnt really struggle for subjects close to home. Joel recommends a 60:40 split between clouds and sky. Just now ive got a 100:0 split.

Yes you are very fortunate to live in an architectural wonderland. Wish I had that near me. One of my goals for 2016 is to become acquainted with good architectural subjects in the Atlanta area. I hope there are some. ;)


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Sony: α7R II | Sony: 35GM, 12-24GM | Sigma Art: 35 F1.2, 105 Macro | Zeiss Batis: 85, 135 | Zeiss Loxia: 21, 35, 85

  
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Eddie
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Jan 13, 2016 13:16 |  #11743

David Arbogast wrote in post #17856731 (external link)
Yes you are very fortunate to live in an architectural wonderland. Wish I had that near me. One of my goals for 2016 is to become acquainted with good architectural subjects in the Atlanta area. I hope there are some. ;)

I'm a bit annoyed at myself its took until now for me to actually start thinking about utilising my surroundings. Previous to callum I was only really interested in finding landscapes


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TRhoads
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Jan 13, 2016 13:26 |  #11744

Nightdiver13 wrote in post #17856636 (external link)
Nice, thanks for those. Similar to some comparisons I saw when first purchasing my filter kits. But man, talk about an ideal testing ground! Have you also found the Big Stopper color cast easier to work with in PP?

I much prefer working with the LEE filters and the color cast they have. Now...FH has their Firecrest set of Filters also, which are supposed to be better than the Pro IRND...I have the 16 stop Firecrest, and the color cast from that is minimal and easy to work with.


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MedicineMan4040
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Jan 13, 2016 13:35 |  #11745

In two hours of reading this filter business has gotten really complicated.
I remember long ago when D.Arbogast corrected me for using a CPL on the sky.
My knowledge base has not grown any.
And now with all the possibles I'm just as confused.
Maybe I need to stick with animals and not landscape!
Prolem is Iceland has precious few animals and I've go to shoot something.
Puffins???


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