New to Flash - help me buy an OCF setup for my 6D

I've been trying to do as much reading as possible but can't find the confirmation I need to feel comfortable purchasing. I'm looking for a simple, cost efficient, setup to learn only.

Can I buy one (1) yn 622c flash trigger and one (1) yn 568ex? If I understand correctly the 568ex has built in ETTL but I'm not sure if that means it has a receiver or if I need two 622s. Is that what it means by slave?

Any other setups welcome. I'm not opposed to going with a yn603 and yn560 either. I just want the simplest setup that I can expand on.

ETTL means it can automatically increase or decrease the flash power depending on the scene readings. Its totally different from wireless. Im not familiar with the specs of the YN 568ex to see if it has wireless capabilities, but i would just get 2 YN 622c's since they're so inexpensive anyways. That way, 1 can be on the flash and the other can be on top of your camera's hotshoe making it OCF. Another option would be buying 1 yn 622c Tx and 1 yn 622c. The yn 622c TX is a dedicated controller with an easy viewing LCD to control other yn 622c transceivers. I think they sell together as a pair now. Hope this helps.

That does add some clarity. So I guess I'm going to need 2 transivers no matter what. I was under the impression some flashes had built in wireless receivers

So far learned flash has been a bit of a challenge.

Have you checked out strobist.com?? Best resource on the net for learning OCF.

No sir but I'll head there now.

Some do, but the majority will be Infra Red which means your flash will need to be facing your camera to work. This kinda limits your OCF creativity. Using the YN's will give you more freedom as they are Radio Frequency triggers and can be activated from quite some distance facing anywhere. Just go onto youtube and see review videos about them. Thats usually how i do it.

there is definitely a YN flash that does not require an additional trigger mounted to the bottom.

I gotta run, but I think it is the 560: http://flashhavoc.com …622c-compatibility-added/

browse that site for a few days and you will figure it out.

Your 6D doesn't have a built in flash so it can't fire an off camera flash on it's own. You will need a way to fire whichever flash you go with. For simplicity you might want to look at the YN600RT and the YN-E3-RT, the flash has a radio transceiver built in so you don't need to worry about attaching the trigger and the controller has a nice LCD screen to easily control the flash. Also, the Yongnuo RT system is easily expandable and compatable with the Canon system.

Might be easier if I show you what I'm looking at:

http://www.ebay.com …ain_0&hash=item​33873518a3

But I understand that this will not do high speed sync?

Taylor02GT wrote in post #17582660
I've been trying to do as much reading as possible but can't find the confirmation I need to feel comfortable purchasing. I'm looking for a simple, cost efficient, setup to learn only.

Can I buy one (1) yn 622c flash trigger and one (1) yn 568ex? If I understand correctly the 568ex has built in ETTL but I'm not sure if that means it has a receiver or if I need two 622s. Is that what it means by slave?

Any other setups welcome. I'm not opposed to going with a yn603 and yn560 either. I just want the simplest setup that I can expand on.

Heya,

First you need to figure out what features you're after. Why purchase twice when you can purchase once? You also need to figure out what you're using the flash for, as that helps you to figure out what all you actually need. I say this because just buying a flash isn't the end of it, there's the other big side of lighting and that's modifiers unless you're dedicated to bounce flash or something. This all adds in to final cost. But again, it's better to figure out what you actually will need and get that, rather than just get the cheapest thing and buy twice or thrice. I say this because I've done it that way and I still ended up buying three plus times. Should have just done it right the first time.

Anyhow, the Strobist is a great beginning to off camera lighting and inexpensive but effective gear. Read it up, it's not long. Lighting 101 I think he calls it?

It sounds like you want features, as you have selected a 568EX, so you're wanting TTL, HSS, etc. I think that's a good way to start, as it will prevent you from buying another flash just to know what TTL and HSS are and it will integrate into any flash setup you end up creating as you add more lights (and you will!). For off camera use with that flash to maintain TTL and HSS, you'll need TWO YN622's. One for your camera and one for the flash. Alternatively, one YN622TX (a controller transmitter) and a YN622C. The TX will allow you to control a lot of the features of the flash remotely from that controller. Just a thought as it's handy!

The 560 III & IV system is super simple because there's no extra transmitters involved, just one initial controller on the camera, and you can just add a fleet of wireless flashes. So it's super cost effective if you're building a large fleet of off-camera speedlites that are portable, simple, less devices, etc. It's one of the least expensive ways to get quality several-light-source off-camera setups that are portable and maintain a good amount of output. I have this system and it's wonderful. But, the compromise is that it doesn't have TTL, HSS, etc. It's just a manual flash setup for controlled use. That's great, as I don't find you need TTL ever with a multi-light setup, but HSS is something that would be missed likely in some situations (I know I eventually craved HSS).

So a YN622TX and YN622C along with a YN 568EX II is a great way to begin. Gives you all features in one go.

From there, you'll want modifiers. You could get a cheap light stand for $20 and call it a day. I will say not to though. I'd suggest you get a good light stand with a boom arm. It costs more, but it's going to be a "forever" purchase. Getting the flash off camera is one thing. Getting it off camera and any where you want it, is another. A good stand with a boom lets you do very creative things with lighting on the go, without the stand being in the way. The cheapest modifier that is worth getting is an umbrella. A big 43" shoot through umbrella is a great start. And I would get a S-bracket mount to hold the flash and be the device that secures to a modifier (Godox S-bracket for speedlites, cheap, forever type purchase). Alternatively, you get a softbox, just choose a size for your purposes. There are tons out there, so I would look at cost versus features for your needs. I find cheap ones work just as well as the expensive ones for the most part in this case, but there's no substitute for size, bigger with more light produces softer light and more wrap, so it's one of those physical limitation things, you just gotta go big depending on what you're shooting sometimes.

To expand, you simply add ANY flash to your setup, like another YN 568EX II if you want to have more HSS options. Or, you could at that point start adding more lights, but less features, to just get more light, like 560 III's or 565EX II for just TTL. Personally for cost right now the 568EX II is about the same cost as the 565EX II, so might as well get the 568EX II for the same cost with more features. I find having 2~3 lights is a very good expansion as it gives you a key light, rim light, and another option for additional rim, fill, etc. Or you can combine them to increase power output in a larger modifier.

Alternatively, if you're not needing portable small flashes, and you find you know you'll want more power based on what you're planning to shoot, you may not want to get into speedlites at all. You may need to skip straight to monolights or bare bulbs, etc. Strobes basically, something with more output. They're not actually that much more expensive, but they're generally less portable and larger. But if you're wanting to shoot in sunlight and over power the sun, this is the direction you'll end up. Getting a nice 360ws strobe early on could be one of the best ways to really start getting into lighting honestly. I know looking back, as much as I like my speedlite fleet, powerful strobes with HSS is something I wish I had simply bought into first to save me the time and money having ended up there anyways.

Very best,

Wireless flash can be OPTICAL or RF. Some flashes have a built in Optical trigger that can communicate ETTL information. There are also multiple RF radios that communicate ETTL information. The RF radios are generally not compatible from "Manufacturer A" to those of "Manufacturer B". So be advised to study before picking a system.

The other twist in this is that the YN560III flash you are looking is manual, in that it is not capable of communicating ETTL information. The trigger is a pure and simple FIRE SIGNAL You have to manually set the power of the flash.

Lots of ways to put a trigger system together. YN-622's are one of the many ways.

To use an analogy

"Measure three times and cut once"

Hope this helps

110yd

I have used Canon's flash mastering system extensively. It works fine indoors. The recipient flash does NOT have to be facing the transmitting flash. The 60D & 70D can control 2 groups. The 7D & 7D2 can control 3 groups. None of the camera-body masters has enough power to be useful in more than a medium sized room. Your best bet for mastering 3 groups and controlling all of them in a large room is the 550EX, 580EX, or 580EX II. I have used this setup in a 60-foot great room with 18 foot ceilings. It works just fine.

That said, it is getting a tad inconvenient to tie up one flash as a master that does not contribute to the scene, and have 4 other units scattered over two floors. The radio control system of the 622c setup is very tempting. It would also allow me to use the now camera-mounted 580EX II to contribute to the lighting, while also making my camera a lot lighter/smaller.

If you plan to use your system outdoors, forget the Canon flash master system. It is worthless past about 20 feet, and outdoors (in daylight) you MUST point the receivers at the senders. I tried it once. It was too restrictive for me. I stick to a hot-shoe mounted 580EX II for fill when outdoors.

Thank you for this response, I cannot express how helpful this was. I was a bit hesitant to post this thread in fear of being ridiculed for not researching. I've been reading up on ETTL, HSS, and different methods by looking through threads on this forum as well as some Flickr discussions but the general feeling I got coming away from the reading was just overwhelming. I have been shooting digital photography for 10 years and all of it has been using natural lighting. As of recently, I finally upgraded to an affordable full frame (6D), my first full frame ever, and have been really wanting to take my hobby to the next level. This is, like I said, a hobby for me and I just want to learn lighting.

I've added the Lighting 101 from Strobist to my bookmarks, I can't wait to get started reading that. I've also bookmarked some good discussions on flashhavoc.

So let me ask a silly question. So the YN560II has a built in YN603. So if I had a YN603CIII attached to my camera, I would be able to trigger the 560III? This setup would be manual, and not have ETTL/HSS. But that might be ok for me after all? I guess for some reason I was set on HSS because I like to shoot at wide apertures for portraits. But maybe I'm misunderstanding the concept of sync speed? Or maybe I could compensate by purchasing a filter for my lens? If I wanted to add an additional 560III would the single YN603CIII on my camera be able to trigger both flashes?

As for my use, I shoot primarily cars. This is an example from over a year ago of a shot I would have loved to had more lighting for.

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/m89X​ca

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/p1SZ​X1

Again, that's for all the responses. I've replied to a few of you! Hopefully I'm understanding this new forum layout.

Heya,

Taylor02GT wrote in post #17583861
So let me ask a silly question. So the YN560II has a built in YN603. So if I had a YN603CIII attached to my camera, I would be able to trigger the 560III? This setup would be manual, and not have ETTL/HSS. But that might be ok for me after all? I guess for some reason I was set on HSS because I like to shoot at wide apertures for portraits. But maybe I'm misunderstanding the concept of sync speed? Or maybe I could compensate by purchasing a filter for my lens? If I wanted to add an additional 560III would the single YN603CIII on my camera be able to trigger both flashes?

The YN560III and 560IV have built in receivers. So a single YN603C will trigger all of them. The 560III is a basic manual flash, but has a built in wireless receiver. To control it, and several more, all you need is a single YN603C or a YN560TX (this is a controller unit and transmitter, built around the 560III to control manual flash power output remotely). This is a super simple setup, based on having wireless flashes without needing lots of transmitters. You instead get one transmitter that triggers the whole fleet of flashes. It's less costly, less batteries, less devices. Very simple. Very affordable for a multi-light portable fleet. But you will not have ETTL or HSS. It's strictly manual. But, to make it simple, they released the YN560TX controller, or you can get a 560IV which is the same thing but with a flash head on it. Personally I would go for a YN560TX controller (this goes on your camera, it is the only transmitter you need with a fleet of several 560 III flashes, this TX controller allows you to individually change the power level on your flashes remotely, this is super handy, no more walking to each flash to adjust them, just do it from the controller right there on your camera). And then just add 2 or 3 YN560III flashes. So YN560TX controller and 3 YN560III flashes. No other devices needed. Just stands and modifiers and batteries after that. Should cost $45 for the controller, and $70 per flash, so $250 total maybe for the fleet.

For a lot of what you're looking to do, you could use HSS. But, output from speedlites in HSS is much lower, so you have to be a lot closer with your lights, and it mostly acts as fill light, rather than over powering the sun (like you would have wanted with the portrait of your daughter). The alternative way to do what you were describing without using HSS capable lights, is to simply use ND filters to drop ambient light so that you can stick to your 1/180s synch speed of your 6D, while using wide aperture in the sun, and adding flash.

I've yet to be really inspired by HSS on speedlites beyond simple fill light. The HSS that really excites me, is the kind that is powerful to be a key light and overpower the sun while doing it, and that takes a strobe, much more powerful than a speedlite. Just depends on what you're looking to do. Again, the alternative way to avoid HSS is to simply use ND filters to drop ambient light in general, so you can stick to your synch speed on your camera.

And lastly, for shooting that car, or your daughter, I would have avoided TTL completely personally. These kinds of shoots, I'd be shooting manual no matter the gear, to completely control the exposure. TTL is really handy for the times you can't take a second shot, but for a controlled shoot, especially with several lights, I'd avoid TTL. HSS however is pretty fun and useful, but not needed for many things.

***

I just looked through your Flickr and based on what I see there, I think I'd just stick to manual flashes and add an ND filter or two to your bag for the times you need to drop ambient light more while retaining flash synch speed. I use two 3 stop ND filters for this, as they can be 3 stop or 6 stops stacked, which allows you to shoot at wide aperture in bright light, and keep synch speed with normal manual flash.

Yongnuo 560TX (controller transmitter)
Yongnuo 560 III x 3 (get three, they will all trigger from the single 560TX that will be on your camera).
Batteries (14 AA's total needed)
Diffusers (potentially for the flashes, little head diffusers).
3 stop ND filters x 2 (Hoya, B+W, Marumi, all are fine).
Gels (you'll want to get into this if mixing flash and ambient light; Rogue gels are cheap and do the job).

Lastly, if you really want to get into modifiers, just grab some inexpensive $20 impact stands, and some inexpensive 43" westscott umbrellas and some godox s-bracket mounts.

Everything will fit in a duffel bag.

Very best,