troutfisher wrote in post #17604186
If its any help I tend to leave mine on when using a ballhead but I always have the ballhead quite loose so I can move it easily.
I suppose the easiest thing is suck it and see but one of the birders may have a better idea
Thanks, I have been giving it a go, the head seems really well damped.
Thanks, that confirms it. I knew the original 1-4 wasn't a lens which detected a tripod, but I never knew the science behind it.
cutwater wrote in post #17604235
I posted a similar question in the Tamron 150-600 thread about using stabilization with the gimbal mount, specifically when the gimbal was loose, but NOT panning. I number of people responded that they experienced better shots using the stabilization under those conditions.
Now the 100-400 has two IS modes, one for panning, where the Tamron doesn't - so you may be able to use IS for panning as well.
Thanks, I never switch between mode 1 & mode 2, mines left on 1 all the time. To be honest, I never really saw the advantage/disadvantage of each one in real life shooting.
johnf3f wrote in post #17604719
Well take this for what it is worth!
My advice is VERY simple - turn the IS off and leave it there!
When shutter speeds get really low then IS can be very handy - but my subjects demand higher shutter speeds than those where IS is effective so I don't use it. IS will slow down your AF acquisition and does harm/impede AF tracking.
Back at the beginning of 2014 I turned off the IS on all 5 of my IS lenses and got better results and a significantly higher "Hit Rate" - I have yet to turn the IS on again on any (though there are now only 3) of my IS lenses!
Using my Wimberley 2 head on a Gitzo 3530LS tripod I have no problem getting sharp images at 125th sec and that is with my Canon 800 F5.6 L IS, so with a 100-400 I would suggest you turn it off under all circumstances and just keep IS in reserve for when there is no other solution.
Note - as far as I know the 100-400 Mk1 does not have tripod sensing IS so just turn it off if using a tripod.
Thanks, I will give it a go, I always try for 1/800 sec shutter speed minimum when birding, so that will help negating the need for IS. Also, when the IS engages it takes a second and if I've only got a the briefest of chances to get a shot, I could be missing out on a few frames whilst IS starts up.
I picked up a Gimbal due to seeing some extremely sharp shots at 600mm with only 1/125 sec shutter speed. Normally a new user to longer lens who is getting blurry shots is always down to those sort of shutter speeds. I thought I'd give it a go.
Thanks to all who took the time to reply.
Ian