Saving files and USM

Why is USM (Unsharp Mask) is applied as a last procedure in photo manipulation just before saving?

Maybe this will help --

http://www.microsoft.c​om …more/fixit/shar​pening.asp

Actually it says there are two times sharpening should be done depending on the whether the sharpening is to compensate for a camera's low pass filter or to compensate for the softening effect of the output process.

The first one should be done after all other editing (especially any noise reduction because noise gets amplified by sharpening), but before resizing/resampling. The second should done after resizing/resampling.

Regards,
Sheri

Thank you Sheri, this is the first time I understood this concept.
The link above was most useful.
I feel all beginners should read this

Sheri wrote:
Maybe this will help --

http://www.microsoft.c​om …more/fixit/shar​pening.asp

Actually it says there are two times sharpening should be done depending on the whether the sharpening is to compensate for a camera's low pass filter or to compensate for the softening effect of the output process.

The first one should be done after all other editing (especially any noise reduction because noise gets amplified by sharpening), but before resizing/resampling. The second should done after resizing/resampling.

Regards,
Sheri

I read somewher that the first pass USM could entirely be done outside the camera, if this compensation (sharpening) is disabled in the camera. Can the camera sharpening can be diaabled in the Canon 10D. I went thru the menus, but could not find this option.

Usually the lower sharpening setting (-1 in my S50) disables in-camera sharpening. If you shoot in RAW, you can change it during conversion too.

On a average shot that is well focused and in balance, what are the usual amonts of the slider settings for the 1st and 2nd pass USM

I'm usually use 250-500% (depending the picture), 0.2, 0-3 (again, depending the noise) for well focusing pictures and 150-300%, 0.3-0.4, 0-3 for not so well focused ones for the first pass (for S50 low-sharpening RAW files). If rescaled, i'm aplying the first set of numbers again. I'm printing in a continuous tone dye-sublimation printer. As fas as I know, inkjet printers need more sharpening.
Also I'm using the apparently not very known 15-20%, 50, 0 setting to increase local contrast. This setting has nothing to do with sharpening, only contrast, so it can be applied as a "3rd pass" (or more exactly "zeroth pass") USM.

USM totally depends on the picture/situation and should be done as the very last step before exporting your image.

i made my own actions in photoshop to use USM

my settings are

for people:

amount 150
radius 1
threshold 10

for buildings, cars, coins

Amount 65
Radius 3
Threshold 2

these settings are just averages that seem to work, often i have to re apply the filter, to get what i want.

A short cut that i didnt see listed in the above replies
would be to uses the fade unsharp mask

Suppose you over applied USM.
go to edit>>fade unsharp mask

change the blend mode luminosity from the drop down
and adjust the percentage to your liking.


Another way is to convert your pic to LAB, and select the Lightness layer and apply the USM there.

concerning noise reduction and all that, in RGB

R contains contrast info
G contains detail
B contains artifacts, film grain, noise

one would consider applying despeckle to the Blue channel, rather than the overall picture. You will lose small details and soften the overall pic.


good luck!!!

Could these settings be saved and applied as a macro?

ummm what settings??

the usm settings??

i only deal with actions in photoshop. Macros are way out of my league!!!