I need "how to use a lens as a gobo projector for studio strobes in modelling light and flash mode"

I saw a great article on line about a 6 months ago and now I can't find it.

Anyone have any idea?

The guide used an extension tube and a 50mm lens backward with an attachment to the strobe... but I would love to build it now I have a bit of time but can't locate the article, and it will save me from making too many mistakes... hopefully anyway!

There are heaps of guides using camera flash units but I am wanting the power of studio strobes and modelling lights...

http://www.rockynook.c​om …o-projection-using-flash/

http://www.diyphotogra​phy.net …ojector-in-10-easy-steps/

Or if you don't have an old 35mm body to spare;

http://www.light-blaster.com/

Sorry, I missed the part about Studio strobes.. but I'm not sure how it would differ if you still using a camera lens?

Its all about the heat from the modelling lights CD.
Light blaster has, for an addition cost of course, studio strobe adaptors, but if I can knock one up it will save me purchase and shipping costs, especially now the Aussie dollar has fallen..:/

I was looking at
https://www.dennymfg.c​om …00-0000-0000-000000000000
but the shipping cost is a crazy US$144 , more than the unit itself.

I made one of these back in the 1980s using 2mm ply as a box fastened to the front of a standard 7" reflector for my Bowens Esprit units. Fixed slot for the gobo and the lens was nothing more than a magnifying sheet from the local stationary store. This simply slide back & forth in a basic frame carrier. I'll have a look and see if I can find my notes from back then but don't hold your breathe - it's 30 years ago now.

Look up a cheap Norman power pack, then aim for a trilite. The 20/20 or 24/24 will all over power the trilite, and you get the added benefit of a beautiful spot light effect with the pack, or a slide 35mm-120, or a gobo, or to a 2000 watt/sec flash(probably not the best use of a bulb, but it gives a real nice light fall off). You can size it down to the size of a acoustic guitar sound hole, or obviously put really far away and crank it up for larger projections.

I've tried pringle cans, started to melt it. I rigged up an old metal snoot and fitted that up with a metal holder for slides and gobo's by gutting a hole in the side to fit the holder but that didn't offer the control I wanted over the focus of the gobo pattern, so rigged an old projector lens on to the front and that because alot of sloutions show a lens on the front... kind of worked, the edges of the pattern get kind of weird. I stopped there as I was able to get the Trilite for under $200. If I was to keep at it, maybe getting a few snoots that have holder slices at different spots may help control the pattern.

Only problem with Norman's. Not sure how easy they are to find in Australia. You can rewire them to feed speedotrons, if you guys have those to.

I have Paul C. Buff lights (WL X1600s), and I wanted to do something similar last year, so I picked up a couple of things:

LiteMod: http://paulcbuff.com/u​mf.php
Background Projector: http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …jector_SP100_14​7_920.html
And a sheet of aluminum from the local hardware store.

You'll have to cut out the appropriate hole in the aluminum to mount the projector to and then slide that into the LiteMod holder. The Customer Photos on the B&H product page has a good photo of this type of modification done with a B1600 (http://powerreviews.s3​.amazonaws.com …5/50674553_4391​72_raw.jpg)

I did a simple inkjet printed test with it and it worked pretty well...the only tests I did were during daylight hours, as that's what my intended use for the setup was. I'd advise against using printed transparencies and high power strobes though, as it can quite easily melt the transparency film. You can see an example of this in the other customer photo where the person modded an umbrella reflector (http://powerreviews.s3​.amazonaws.com …5/59618547_5300​16_raw.jpg). Notice how the gobos are very discolored (I'm not sure if those are metal or paper).

That being said, it accepts Rosco "B" size gobos, and B&H carries steel gobos.

Hope this helps.

Hi, I have the Gobo projector and Paul Buff LiteMod you mentioned. This is the second Gobo for me. The first one melted the plastic fitting because I forgot about the heat from the Modeling lamp that I left on too long. I did not think of the aluminum mounting idea. Does that help with the heat reaching the Gobo projector? Any problems with heat for you? How did you mount the Aluminum to the projector? Thanks for any advice or help.
Dave

The aluminum mount probably helps with the heat, but to be honest, I only turned the modeling light on long enough to focus. I was using printed transparencies and worried about melting them. For what it's worth, too many full power pops through the transparencies ended up deformity them a bit. I'd definitely recommend going with steel gobo instead of anything printed.

I can take a photo of the aluminum mount tomorrow if you'd like to see them, but basically I cut a sheet of aluminum to fit inside the litemod, cut a circle the size of the projector opening, and drilled four holes to screw the sheet to the litemod. I'll take some photos tomorrow to clear up any confusion.

Pictures would be awesome. Thank you. I have the metal Gobos so my only concern is melting the plastic frame of the projector. Thanks again, Dave

Sorry about the delay in getting this to you. Here are a few quick cellphone snaps of the modified projector.

https://photos.google.​com …3TEhmM2R1X0xQbE​5ad012bExn

As you can see, I completely removed the plastic mount and used the existing screw holes to mount the aluminum sheet to the projector itself. The aluminum sheet is sized so that it slides into the LiteMod mounting slots (with room for a gel if so desired).

Awesome. Thank you very much. Did you buy the aluminum sheet from home Depot or lowes?

It's been a while...I think I picked up the aluminum at Ace Hardware when the one near me was going out of business (). I actually have quite a bit of aluminum in the garage for DIY projects (mostly for video related stuff). I know Menard's carries this kind of stuff...I imagine Home Depot or Lowe's would as well.

I'm not sure how much the steel gobos weigh, but one thing to consider is the flexibility of that aluminum sheet, as it is so thin. Not that I believe it would fall out of the LiteMod or anything by using a steel gobo, but it would feel much sturdier and fit in the LiteMod much better if I had cut two sheets instead of just the one. I did all of the cutting with a Dremel though, so I wasn't really wanting to cut out a second sheet after finishing this one.

Thanks again. I'll be working on it in the coming week. Just got the wife her own camera and need to teach her to use it now.

No problem...good luck with the build. If you need a PSD for designing compatible gobos to print out on transparencies, I have the file I used for my testing I could share. The inkjet printed one I did required two gobos in order to block enough light to show the pattern effectively.