Spot metering technique?

I am just discovering SPOT metering, thanks to POTN member Wilt. Our conversation started in this thread:

https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1431524

I am bringing it here because we have gotten way off-topic in someone else's thread.

My primary body is 6D. I mainly shoot in Av, or Tv. Since SPOT metering in fixed to the center AF point, I am asking about technique. It seems that this will cause a lot of meter/recompose type shooting. That is OK. I am mostly a center-point shooter and am familiar with focus/recompose. Wilt suggested at the end of the previous thread that I meter in manual mode. That seems cumbersome to me, and perhaps a more detailed explanation is in order. It seems, with regard to metering, that I would be just as well off to meter/apply * (exposure lock)/recompose. For those of you using SPOT metering, what technique do you use to overcome the 'center point' only restriction?

(Deleted question about bodies.)

In MANUAL once you set the exposure it is locked in and will not change.
Using the star (*) button to lock the exposure will self cancel after 6 seconds unless you keep the button pressed.

john crossley wrote in post #17613032
In MANUAL once you set the exposure it is locked in and will not change.
Using the star (*) button to lock the exposure will self cancel after 6 seconds unless you keep the button pressed.

Thanks. I get that. So MANUAL would be out in a dynamic environment, I suppose. Or I'd have to get a lot better with MANUAL. In an ever-changing environment it seems * would be easier. Both seem a bit cumbersome, though. Keep in mind, I have next to no experience with spot metering, and have not tried this 'live', yet.

So, George, can you post the photo you took using spot metering so we can see the difference in the results you mentioned in the other thread please?

I am a relative newbie and am finding this discussion very interesting.

I'm probably going to try the experiment myself.

I was stunned and very impressed with Wilt's demonstration.

You have to learn how the camera is going to compensate when confronted with large areas of dark shadows or bright highlights. Also, are you back lighting the subject, augmenting with flash? Chimping is your friend, along with practice.

windpig wrote in post #17613088
You have to learn how the camera is going to compensate when confronted with large areas of dark shadows or bright highlights. Also, are you back lighting the subject, augmenting with flash? Chimping is your friend, along with practice.

Agreed, on all counts. Right now I am just trying out SPOT, and noticing that it is better at what I thought I was doing with EVAL than what I was actually doing with EVAL.

Rick, I reshot the comparisons so all are done as close in time to each other as possible. First, these are the inside shots. First is EVAL metering, second is SPOT. Both metered in the same place (center of dark corner) and framed as closely as I could to each other. Notice EVAL leaves this underexposed by one shot more than SPOT does. I think spot is a bit underexposed, too. Moral of the story: EVAL is hugely influenced by the bright window.

Secondly, the 'outside' shot. Again, EVAL is heavily influenced by the large dark area. SPOT, not so much. I metered for the sky (top branch of 2nd tree from left side). The SPOT metering nailed the exposure for an early morning bright blue sky. The EVAL is again, one stop off. This time it is overexposed because EVAL is trying to lighten up the dark portion. SPOT simply does a better job with this high contrast stuff.

My question is: How do others meter/shoot this kind of stuff? So far I have manual/recompose and Av/*/recompose. Are there any other ways, short of buying a 1D3, ID4, or 1DX?

GeoKras1989 wrote in post #17613102
... Are there any other ways, short of buying a 1D3, ID4, or 1DX?

A 1D would give you exactly the same results. What you have to do is decided which is the most important part of the picture and expose for that. Alternatively take two shots and merge them in PS.

I use spot metering with AV and TV. I find something white, and/or bright to meter on and add + compensation depending on the camera body.

I should have added that when doing the above, I use the exposure lock button because I don't shoot center AF all the time.

john crossley wrote in post #17613140
A 1D would give you exactly the same results. What you have to do is decided which is the most important part of the picture and expose for that. Alternatively take two shots and merge them in PS.

Or shoot Sony/Nikon.

GeoKras1989 wrote in post #17613038
Thanks. I get that. So MANUAL would be out in a dynamic environment, I suppose. Or I'd have to get a lot better with MANUAL. In an ever-changing environment it seems * would be easier. Both seem a bit cumbersome, though. Keep in mind, I have next to no experience with spot metering, and have not tried this 'live', yet.

Manual is best when the LIGHTING INTENSITY is constant! There will be not 'meter error' from shot to shot...the ambient lighting is constant, which means the identical exposure applies for a black object (8 ball) as it does for the white object (cue ball) on the pool table!

Automatic modes help when the lighting intensity is CHANGING from one shot to the next and the shots are taken in very rapid progression. But it will be subject to the SUBJECT BRIGHTNESS changes (not everything 18% tonality) which induce metering error from shot to shot.

I use spot metering (EC +2/3 in TV) with center point spot focus all the time for wildlife. With wildlife the subject is the most important thing to properly expose so spot metering makes sense to me. Obviously white things and black things will need EC adjustment. For close-ups putting the AF point on the eye while metering the body in the center seems to work on solid critters. I believe some cameras like the 7DII have the option for spot metering on AF point. That would be great!

You can use the custom modes to save two sets of options. Mine are identical except for metering. C1 meters for every shot, for changing light. C2 locks metering for as long as the shutter is pressed, for consistent light.

So can the 7Dmk2 and the 5Dmk3 spot meter using single focus point in addition to the center single point? If so is it automatic or do you have to have custom settings for that?

OK George, you are beginning to explore the differences of Eval vs. Spot. Before you go much farther in that exploration, you need to having an underlying understanding of what SUBJECT BRIGHTNESS (which I mentioned in Post 11 of this thread) does to metering...

Using a subject with three panels of tonality, black on left, grey (with bullseye in it), and white on right. In each shot look at the area with the bullseye, and also look at the area actually metered:

The first shot shows what happens when you spotmeter an 18% tonality area (a.k.a. 'mid-tone')...it looks correct

gqllc007 wrote in post #17613216
So can the 7Dmk2 and the 5Dmk3 spot meter using single focus point in addition to the center single point? If so is it automatic or do you have to have custom settings for that?

I don't know about the 7D2. The 5D3 is NOT capable of spot-metering anywhere but the center point. Near as I can tell, the only bodies that do spot metering any selected AF point are: 1D3, 1D4, 1Dx. Yes, I read manuals.