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Thread started 28 Jun 2015 (Sunday) 04:04
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Spot metering technique?

 
GeoKras1989
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Jun 28, 2015 13:10 |  #46
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Wilt wrote in post #17613438 (external link)
Stage lighting with colored gels can be tricky to get right. The fact that stage light is typically controlled upward or downward in intensity during the performance, so you have 'variable intensity' not 'fixed intensity'.

Well, then. No wonder it was a total fail. Way beyond my talents and abilities.


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Phoenixkh
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Jun 28, 2015 13:14 |  #47

I must have been doing something wrong as well..... I'm also subscribed.

I tried spot metering on white egrets.... and the whole photograph was so dark, I switched back to evaluative. What do you think I was doing wrong? AV, center point... not on my 7D2 but on my 70D.

Any guesses or simple advice would be appreciated. It puzzled me. I do have a problem over exposing white birds and would love to learn an easier way besides EC to get it right. I said "simple" because I'm not that bright. ;)


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Wilt
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Jun 28, 2015 13:16 |  #48

GeoKras1989 wrote in post #17613439 (external link)
How else should I refer to using the center of the VF to spot-meter because my subject is on a 1/3 line somewhere? I am not averse to actually doing it. Is it just a given, and I should stop specifying it so often? I am learning good stuff here. Not trying to offend anyone.

<sigh> the dSLR has overly complicated things, compared to traditional SLR usage!

'In the old days' we had only a focusing aid in the center of the screen (the outer area groundglass was typically insufficiently precise). And TTL SLRs did not come to have spot metering capability (with only a couple of exceptions, like the Pentax Spotmatic) until the 1980s.

The AF dSLR gives flexibility of AF points within a group of points, so you can minimize the focus error induced by focus-recompose.
OTOH, the need (or lack of need, in the case of the 1Dn) to meter with subject centered is merely a matter of convenience and increased speed of shooting.
So do not worry about 'recompose' outside the context of focusing with accuracy and precision, as it matters not. Unless speed of shooting is a concern, and then hope for salvation in 'constant lighting'. Then 'constant lighting' makes the postprocessing task a whole lot less arduous and time intensive.


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Wilt
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Jun 28, 2015 13:20 |  #49

Phoenixkh wrote in post #17613444 (external link)
I must have been doing something wrong as well..... I'm also subscribed.

I tried spot metering on white egrets.... and the whole photograph was so dark, I switched back to evaluative. What do you think I was doing wrong? AV, center point... not on my 7D2 but on my 70D.

Any guesses or simple advice would be appreciated. It puzzled me. I do have a problem over exposing white birds and would love to learn an easier way besides EC to get it right. I said "simple" because I'm not that bright. ;)

Spot metering ANYTHING WHITE will result in UNDERexposed shots!!! Spot metering ANYTHING BLACK will result in OVERexposed shots!!!

Re-read this post (from this thread) 10 times, until you can easily teach the concept to someone else...you read it once but the significance was lost on you, as your puzzlement proves...
https://photography-on-the.net …showthread.php?​p=17613220


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Phoenixkh
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Jun 28, 2015 13:21 as a reply to  @ Wilt's post |  #50

OK... so I got what I should have. What would be the preferred method for shooting white birds so they aren't blown out? At the moment, I take a few practice shots and use minus EC.

Is there a better way?


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bobbyz
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Jun 28, 2015 13:21 |  #51

Phoenixkh wrote in post #17613444 (external link)
I must have been doing something wrong as well..... I'm also subscribed.

I tried spot metering on white egrets.... and the whole photograph was so dark, I switched back to evaluative. What do you think I was doing wrong? AV, center point... not on my 7D2 but on my 70D.

Any guesses or simple advice would be appreciated. It puzzled me. I do have a problem over exposing white birds and would love to learn an easier way besides EC to get it right. I said "simple" because I'm not that bright. ;)

When I shot birds I just relied on sunny 16 rule when bird was in the sun. Shot mostly in manual mode. After a while you know your ball park settings and one hardly needs any meter IMHO. Not saying that meter is not useful, it is very handy.


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Jun 28, 2015 13:22 |  #52

I frequently use spot metering when taking photos indoors with flash. I use spot metering on a window to get the outdoors exposure correct, setting that in manual mode, and then use E-TTL with the flash to get the indoors exposure correct.

Here's an example of a car driver of today's standard, where the light outside the car has been metered through the window and then the flash fixes most of the inside light.


IMAGE: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Xc__4bBXRQw/TK20Y3P3hsI/AAAAAAAAMIM/4skKQ5TQadE/s800/IMG_0650.JPG

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isvein
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Jun 28, 2015 13:26 |  #53

Unless someone else has said this already.
the metering in camera will always try to mix everything down to around 18% grey.
Like mentioning before, it gets very fun if you meter off something pure black or white.


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Jun 28, 2015 13:32 |  #54

Phoenixkh wrote in post #17613452 (external link)
OK... so I got what I should have. What would be the preferred method for shooting white birds so they aren't blown out? At the moment, I take a few practice shots and use minus EC.

Is there a better way?

What started this thread was a different thread in which the flaws of Evaluative mode were exemplified. When shooting birds, they may be too small to fill our Spot, so even spot mode would be fooled to some extent. So then you simply need to have to general metering situations memorized:

Sunlit: Sunny 16 or one if its derivatives (Cloudy, Overcast) applies.
Backlit: The 'Open shade, no shadows' derivative of Sunny 16 applies

Who needs 'metering'?!


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Jun 28, 2015 13:34 |  #55

isvein wrote in post #17613460 (external link)
18% grey

Uh-oh.

:p

I predict another two pages on this one. I'd start but I'm on my phone and need to keep on keeping on with some yardwork.


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Jun 28, 2015 13:34 |  #56

isvein wrote in post #17613460 (external link)
Unless someone else has said this already.
the metering in camera will always try to mix everything down to around 18% grey.
Like mentioning before, it gets very fun if you meter off something pure black or white.


"the metering in camera will always try to mix everything down to around 18% grey"
...The single most not-understood concept by hobbyists and snapshooters!


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Jun 28, 2015 13:36 |  #57

Left Handed Brisket wrote in post #17613464 (external link)
Uh-oh.

:p

I predict another two pages on this one. I'd start but I'm on my phone and need to keep on keeping on with some yardwork.


No we will NOT discuss this issue...we need to get fundamental principles down first -- before we confuse things with increasing the precision of our exposures with a topic which is confused for us by the entire industry!


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Jun 28, 2015 13:54 |  #58

Old but good:
https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=Axt9zLxdE8s (external link)


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Jun 28, 2015 14:05 as a reply to  @ Phoenixkh's post |  #59
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Metering something white will result in underexposure. Dialing in -EC will only exacerbate the problem. The meter is set to render the metered spot/area/frame in a neutral 18% grey. I know you've heard that before. What it means is that if you meter something white, and want it to look white in the photo, you have to ADD EC. +EC. More exposure. If you white object is two stops whiter/lighter than the meter, you add +2EC to the exposure to make the whites white. Kinda like doing laundry. (My wife would choke me for that one! :) )


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Jun 28, 2015 14:21 |  #60

Wilt wrote in post #17613468 (external link)
No we will NOT discuss this issue...

aww, man!

:kicksdirt:


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