7D Mk11 settings for motorsports

Just upgraded to a 7D Mk11 for my motorsports photography.
Looking for some help on auto focus settings, any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks

Start with case 1, use single af point or single point expanded. See how it goes. Some do use zone, I find that mine tends to focus on the grass or ground close to me instead of my intended subject, so I stay with the single/expanded point.

I tried the recommend case for motorsports, wasn't a fan. Case 1 seems to be damn good so I'd start with that, make sure you use AI Servo. I normally keep my shutter speed at 1/800th or faster depending on the speed of the car/dragster I'm photographing.

I use the 7DMk1, I use aperture or shutter speed priority, at least 250th of sec if panning or around 500th or more if still shot, just check to see if shots are blurred or sharp, I use ai servo with continuous shooting with single point focus.

Hoping to hit at least one NASCAR race at Martinsville next year and am hoping to have at least a new 7DII. (really hoping for a Sigma 150-600 as well) Wondering how the 7DII coupled with a V1 100-400 Canon would fare? If I can get the Sigma then I think some really nice shots can be had. Wondering what the take is on those two lenses coupled with the 7DII?

Based on the views shown on the websites, it appears the best place from the stands may be high up coming out of turn 4 into the front stretch. From there you can see over the fencing and get the cars heading from the backstretch into turn 3. You can also get a pretty good view of the pits.

mikeinctown wrote in post #17804410
Hoping to hit at least one NASCAR race at Martinsville next year and am hoping to have at least a new 7DII. (really hoping for a Sigma 150-600 as well) Wondering how the 7DII coupled with a V1 100-400 Canon would fare? If I can get the Sigma then I think some really nice shots can be had. Wondering what the take is on those two lenses coupled with the 7DII?

Based on the views shown on the websites, it appears the best place from the stands may be high up coming out of turn 4 into the front stretch. From there you can see over the fencing and get the cars heading from the backstretch into turn 3. You can also get a pretty good view of the pits.

With as small as Mville is wouldn't a 150-600 with a 1.6 crop be a bit... overkill? Don't forget that a 70-200 f2.8 is really a 112-320mm lens when it comes down to it, other than that the 7d2 is an amazing camera for the price.

I shoot radio control flying events with the 7D2 & original 100-400 & it's a really good combo. (I also use a 1D4 & 28-300 L IS). Because the planes are small in the sky I use all points for the AF but like above I ran into problems when they are landing (I use the other combo for take offs) so I assigned expanded single point to a rear button & press it when I think the AF will pick the foreground. I shoot in Tv because I usually need prop blur just like you'll need wheel / tire / background blur.

Go to http://blog.dojoklo.co​m …ith-recommended-settings/ scroll down a bit and download the spreadsheet or the PDF. Then review the column called Action/Sports.

The zone focus will always attempt to focus on the closest point. That's why you are getting the grass in focus.
Hope this helps.

As stated above....case 1 is the best starting point until you get a handle on the new body.
Case 4 or 5 would be next choices...all depending on light and what lens you're using.

I still find that I use just center single point...get the highest amount of keepers that way.
It does ok under low light....not super..but above average.

Recommend using slightly higher shutter speeds for sharp images.....especially if you're out past 200mm

These are IMO the best setting for motorsports and fast moving subjects.

Full Manual > AI Servo > Middle (center) Focus Point.

I have tried many times to use TV mode with different Metering modes and I find it to be inconsistent.

When I'm shooting drift, panning, I shoot full manual and pre-configure TV at 1/300 or so for when the cars are coming towards me to make sure I get a sharp image. It only takes a quick second to turn the wheel to TV from Manual. That guarantee me the shot. 1/100 give me a great panning shot but if the car is coming towards me, that won't be quick enough to freeze it.

Good luck.