Approve the Cookies
This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies and our Privacy Policy.
OK
Forums  •   • New posts  •   • RTAT  •   • 'Best of'  •   • Gallery  •   • Gear
Guest
Forums  •   • New posts  •   • RTAT  •   • 'Best of'  •   • Gallery  •   • Gear
Register to forums    Log in

 
FORUMS Community Talk, Chatter & Stuff General Photography Talk 
Thread started 21 Jul 2015 (Tuesday) 12:13
Search threadPrev/next
sponsored links (only for non-logged)

Settings for sharp focus (portraits)

 
jeffdaypdx
Member
Avatar
50 posts
Likes: 14
Joined Jan 2013
Location: Portland, Oregon
     
Jul 21, 2015 12:13 |  #1

I shoot a 5Dm3 with either a 50mm 1.2 or a 70-200m 2.8.

I have been trying to master focusing for broader portrait shots, full body. Up close, head shots and facials are easy. But I can't seem to get the sharpness when the subject is further away, is his just natural not to be so sharp? Is processing a big part of it?

what do you set your camera at internally for this shot? Single Point Spot AF? Single Pt AF? I usually compose the shot in viewfinder, then set my AF point (eyes) and fire.....but I am missing more than I should.

I uploaded a couple of pics straight out of the camera, they were shot with a 50mm. But looked soft.

http://www.jeffdayphot​ography.com/p579047545 (external link)

I'd appreciate and feedback from you pros
Thanks


5D MarkIII | 17-40L | 50L | 85L | 70-200L
Flickr (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Alveric
Goldmember
Avatar
4,598 posts
Gallery: 38 photos
Likes: 1061
Joined Jan 2011
Location: Canada
     
Jul 21, 2015 12:44 |  #2
bannedPermanent ban

If using AF I use single point and dial a point that is closest to the eyes. If using manual focus I use LiveView. I don't recompose because that introduces parallax error, especially at such apertures where the focal plane is razor thin. I also ask the subjects not to rock back and forth.


'The success of the second-rate is deplorable in itself; but it is more deplorable in that it very often obscures the genuine masterpiece. If the crowd runs after the false, it must neglect the true.' —Arthur Machen
Why 'The Histogram' Sux (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
mike_311
Checking squirrels nuts
3,761 posts
Gallery: 18 photos
Best ofs: 1
Likes: 570
Joined Mar 2011
     
Jul 21, 2015 13:53 |  #3

naturally you wont get the resolution from further out, you could also try stopping the lens down a bit.

the images look fine to me without pixelpeeping.


Canon 5d mkii | Canon 17-40/4L | Tamron 24-70/2.8 | Canon 85/1.8 | Canon 135/2L
www.michaelalestraphot​ography.com (external link)
Flickr (external link) | 500px (external link) | About me

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
PCousins
Goldmember
Avatar
1,758 posts
Gallery: 1191 photos
Best ofs: 1
Likes: 30549
Joined Nov 2014
Location: Weston-Super-Mare (UK)
Post edited over 8 years ago by PCousins. (2 edits in all)
     
Jul 21, 2015 14:04 |  #4

I carefully looked at both photo's, it appears in both images that the face is out of focus, it might be worth doing a micro adjust calibration with the 50mm on your 5d3. While the 1.2 is not at its sharpest at 1.2 it should give you pleasing results.

Also can you let us know what aperture you have your camera set to with these images is it f/1.2 ? I usually use f/1.2 on my 85 or f/1.4 on my 50 1.4 for people at similar distances.

The 50L is a great lens but I personally found mine to be far too SOFT when wide open. I replaced my lens for another 50L and that was the same. I learn't that this is is a characteristic of the lens. In fact the hit rate on my 85L2 was much higher than that of my 50L......I expected too much of the 50L and It was not what I wanted so I sold mine and purchased the much cheaper 50mm f/1.4 which I have enjoyed over the last 2 years. I am not in no way criticising this lens, in fact I highly praise it but I wanted absolute SHARPNESS which this lens could not give me when using wide open. I put the left over monies towards the 135L and that never lets me down with these type of shots.




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
PhotosGuy
Cream of the Crop, R.I.P.
Avatar
75,941 posts
Gallery: 8 photos
Likes: 2610
Joined Feb 2004
Location: Middle of Michigan
     
Jul 21, 2015 14:48 |  #5

Alveric wrote in post #17639174 (external link)
If using AF I use single point and dial a point that is closest to the eyes. If using manual focus I use LiveView. I don't recompose because that introduces parallax error, especially at such apertures where the focal plane is razor thin. I also ask the subjects not to rock back and forth.

This ^ ^, + AI Servo in case I move a little & the subject moves a little. .

Generally the "sweet spot" for a lens, where it does best, is two to three stops down from wide open. Wide open, you'll get maximum "benefit" from the uncorrected aberrations left in the lens design, which I kind of like for portraits, and stopped down to the far end, you start getting diffraction around the diaphragm, causing slight image degradation. This diffraction is less pronounced with longer focal length lenses since the aperture is physically larger even at small f-stops.
And don't forget to check the micro calibration as PCousins suggested.


FrankC - 20D, RAW, Manual everything...
Classic Carz, Racing, Air Show, Flowers.
Find the light... A few Car Lighting Tips, and MOVE YOUR FEET!
Have you thought about making your own book? // Need an exposure crutch?
New Image Size Limits: Image must not exceed 1600 pixels on any side.

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
tim
Light Bringer
Avatar
51,010 posts
Likes: 375
Joined Nov 2004
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
     
Jul 21, 2015 15:31 |  #6

To me they look soft rather than out of focus. I can't see exif on this computer, but wide open or near it that's what I'd expect - maybe not quite as good as I'd expect.

People don't like it when I say this, and I don't want to start a brand war, but when I switched to Nikon my focus issues went away, and the lenses I use are very sharp. Canon just couldn't get my cameras and lenses working together to get consistently sharp, in focus photos. I understand things are better these days, but I think Nikon is still superior.


Professional wedding photographer, solution architect and general technical guy with multiple Amazon Web Services certifications.
Read all my FAQs (wedding, printing, lighting, books, etc)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
jeffdaypdx
THREAD ­ STARTER
Member
Avatar
50 posts
Likes: 14
Joined Jan 2013
Location: Portland, Oregon
     
Jul 21, 2015 18:17 |  #7

Thanks for spending time and checking the pics....I appreciate the feedback. I was shooting at f2.8 with the 50mm. I also have the 85 1.2, the 17-40 and the 70-200. Should I be using a different lens?


5D MarkIII | 17-40L | 50L | 85L | 70-200L
Flickr (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
tim
Light Bringer
Avatar
51,010 posts
Likes: 375
Joined Nov 2004
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
     
Jul 21, 2015 18:34 |  #8

jeffdaypdx wrote in post #17639531 (external link)
Thanks for spending time and checking the pics....I appreciate the feedback. I was shooting at f2.8 with the 50mm. I also have the 85 1.2, the 17-40 and the 70-200. Should I be using a different lens?

Each lens gives your images a slightly different look. I'd do test shots to work out which lens you like in which situation. Wide open the 50 F1.2 is meant to have a good look, but not be that sharp. By 2.8 I'd have expected it to be a bit better.


Professional wedding photographer, solution architect and general technical guy with multiple Amazon Web Services certifications.
Read all my FAQs (wedding, printing, lighting, books, etc)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Alveric
Goldmember
Avatar
4,598 posts
Gallery: 38 photos
Likes: 1061
Joined Jan 2011
Location: Canada
     
Jul 21, 2015 18:38 |  #9
bannedPermanent ban

jeffdaypdx wrote in post #17639531 (external link)
Thanks for spending time and checking the pics....I appreciate the feedback. I was shooting at f2.8 with the 50mm. I also have the 85 1.2, the 17-40 and the 70-200. Should I be using a different lens?

It all depends on your intention, the look you need/want, and the story you want to tell.


'The success of the second-rate is deplorable in itself; but it is more deplorable in that it very often obscures the genuine masterpiece. If the crowd runs after the false, it must neglect the true.' —Arthur Machen
Why 'The Histogram' Sux (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
jeffdaypdx
THREAD ­ STARTER
Member
Avatar
50 posts
Likes: 14
Joined Jan 2013
Location: Portland, Oregon
     
Jul 21, 2015 18:59 |  #10

I want very sharp eyes which I am not getting, maybe the 50m is not the right lens? I feel like it does much better with focus when I use it with a strobe. Is this normal?


5D MarkIII | 17-40L | 50L | 85L | 70-200L
Flickr (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
tonylong
...winded
Avatar
54,657 posts
Gallery: 60 photos
Likes: 569
Joined Sep 2007
Location: Vancouver, WA USA
     
Jul 21, 2015 19:13 |  #11

jeffdaypdx wrote in post #17639585 (external link)
I want very sharp eyes which I am not getting, maybe the 50m is not the right lens? I feel like it does much better with focus when I use it with a strobe. Is this normal?

I'd say sure, If you are shooting in lower light and have a "focus assist" light, and if when you examine your shots you see bits that are in focus but your most important "bits" are not, because the camera AF will look for bits that have good contrast, and can pick up bits that have more than those eyes.

As has been said, a big question is whether you are maximizing the effectiveness of your lens or, are you shooting with an aperture that is too wide for the performance of your lens...? Try shooting at f/5.6 or narrower, and compare the results. People do like to shoot at wide apertures to maximize a soft out of focus background, and some lenses are in fact quite sharp at their widest apertures, but then some are not so sharp! You can test your camera/lens setup to get a feel of things!


Tony
Two Canon cameras (5DC, 30D), three Canon lenses (24-105, 100-400, 100mm macro)
Tony Long Photos on PBase (external link)
Wildlife project pics here (external link), Biking Photog shoots here (external link), "Suburbia" project here (external link)! Mount St. Helens, Mount Hood pics here (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Jim ­ Servies
Member
Avatar
102 posts
Gallery: 4 photos
Likes: 11
Joined Feb 2014
Location: Knoxville, TN
     
Jul 21, 2015 19:16 |  #12

They look soft to me as well. What was the shutter speed? Just curious. I'll second the 135L for tack-sharp images wide open. The best value lens Canon offers and it rarely disappoints.




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Two ­ Hot ­ Shoes
Goldmember
4,509 posts
Gallery: 383 photos
Best ofs: 4
Likes: 7184
Joined Apr 2014
     
Jul 21, 2015 19:35 |  #13

Downloaded them and had a good Pixel Peep. I couldn't find any in focus areas in either shot. At F2.8 I'd be expecting sharper results with the 5D3's 22mpx. How is your 70-200 on the same composition?


Fujifilm cameras and lenses.
Gear I use to create (external link)Instagram (external link)Blog (external link)
Coffee & Fujis (external link)About Capture One (external link)YouTube (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
jeffdaypdx
THREAD ­ STARTER
Member
Avatar
50 posts
Likes: 14
Joined Jan 2013
Location: Portland, Oregon
     
Jul 21, 2015 22:01 |  #14

The blue one shutter was 1/250....brick was 1/100.


5D MarkIII | 17-40L | 50L | 85L | 70-200L
Flickr (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Jim ­ Servies
Member
Avatar
102 posts
Gallery: 4 photos
Likes: 11
Joined Feb 2014
Location: Knoxville, TN
     
Jul 21, 2015 22:35 |  #15

jeffdaypdx wrote in post #17639832 (external link)
The blue one shutter was 1/250....brick was 1/100.

In the 2nd shot (bricks) the far left of the frame appears to be in focus but the right doesn't. I want to say it's back-focusing but I'm not certain. If you have a Lens Align Pro or similar I would definitely check calibration / fine tune at that distance. Following this thread and will post if I have a moment to download the files and check on my computer.




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
sponsored links (only for non-logged)

11,946 views & 2 likes for this thread, 16 members have posted to it and it is followed by 7 members.
Settings for sharp focus (portraits)
FORUMS Community Talk, Chatter & Stuff General Photography Talk 
AAA
x 1600
y 1600

Jump to forum...   •  Rules   •  Forums   •  New posts   •  RTAT   •  'Best of'   •  Gallery   •  Gear   •  Reviews   •  Member list   •  Polls   •  Image rules   •  Search   •  Password reset   •  Home

Not a member yet?
Register to forums
Registered members may log in to forums and access all the features: full search, image upload, follow forums, own gear list and ratings, likes, more forums, private messaging, thread follow, notifications, own gallery, all settings, view hosted photos, own reviews, see more and do more... and all is free. Don't be a stranger - register now and start posting!


COOKIES DISCLAIMER: This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies and to our privacy policy.
Privacy policy and cookie usage info.


POWERED BY AMASS forum software 2.58forum software
version 2.58 /
code and design
by Pekka Saarinen ©
for photography-on-the.net

Latest registered member is Monkeytoes
1325 guests, 168 members online
Simultaneous users record so far is 15,144, that happened on Nov 22, 2018

Photography-on-the.net Digital Photography Forums is the website for photographers and all who love great photos, camera and post processing techniques, gear talk, discussion and sharing. Professionals, hobbyists, newbies and those who don't even own a camera -- all are welcome regardless of skill, favourite brand, gear, gender or age. Registering and usage is free.