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FORUMS Photo Sharing & Visual Enjoyment Sports 
Thread started 15 Aug 2015 (Saturday) 20:37
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The Official 2015 High School Football Thread

 
javapop
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Nov 10, 2015 09:29 as a reply to  @ post 17777966 |  #121

The lighting you are working under must be amazing!


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Zivnuska
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Nov 11, 2015 06:57 |  #122

javapop wrote in post #17778557 (external link)
The lighting you are working under must be amazing!

Actually no, the light is typical high school lighting. Hence the use of ISO 12,800. What I do to try to improve my images is shoot with an f/2.8 lens, shoot in RAW, use +1/3 exposure compensation, I don't try to shoot inside the 15 yard line (from the goal line side) without flash, and using lightroom; I open up the shadows at about +80, reduce highlights to about -80, and occasionally tweak the exposure inside the helmet with roughly a +0.30 exposure brush. If anyone has any other tricks, I'm all ears.

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Podonnelljr
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Nov 11, 2015 08:18 |  #123


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javapop
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Nov 11, 2015 08:20 as a reply to  @ Zivnuska's post |  #124

Thanks Phil, great tips. Just curious, when using a flash in the 15, does that slow ya down? and are you just getting some fill light with it? Thats really a tough place to work in. Here's one from this past Friday. I've been using the 7D2 for the past 3 games, and definitely wanting to improve as well!


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Zivnuska
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Nov 11, 2015 08:47 |  #125

For me, it's single shot with the flash, 1/250 second inside the 15 (roughly), ETTL, ISO 1600, f/5.0 (approx), flash mounted 18" below the camera on a monopod. That's 2 to 3 stops above ambient.


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Nov 11, 2015 09:02 |  #126

Zivnuska wrote in post #17779683 (external link)
Actually no, the light is typical high school lighting. Hence the use of ISO 12,800. What I do to try to improve my images is shoot with an f/2.8 lens, shoot in RAW, use +1/3 exposure compensation, I don't try to shoot inside the 15 yard line (from the goal line side) without flash, and using lightroom; I open up the shadows at about +80, reduce highlights to about -80, and occasionally tweak the exposure inside the helmet with roughly a +0.30 exposure brush. If anyone has any other tricks, I'm all ears.

Phil


I shoot at 12,800 ISO too. I actually under expose 2/3 to a full stop to keep the whites in tact. I'll usually pull the photo up in CS6 and adjust the levels only, then to lightroom. I'll raise the exposure, bring up the shadows and drop the highlights. I put anywhere from +4 to +7 on the Clarity. Max out the noise reduction to about 90-95 then sharpen. Then bump the vibrance and color work. (I find I have to play with the green and yellow sliders due to the lights at the field) My final step is to drop the blacks just enough to get rid of any residual noise.

NOTE: When sharpening, I'll bump it up to where I like it, then hold "option" and move the masking slider to about 95. This keeps you from sharpening the noise in the image.

Just another way. I hope it helps someone.


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Podonnelljr
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Nov 11, 2015 14:50 |  #127


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Post edited over 4 years ago by pat.kane. (2 edits in all)
     
Nov 11, 2015 17:55 |  #128

Zivnuska wrote in post #17779797 (external link)
For me, it's single shot with the flash, 1/250 second inside the 15 (roughly), ETTL, ISO 1600, f/5.0 (approx), flash mounted 18" below the camera on a monopod. That's 2 to 3 stops above ambient.

Phil, your images are always top notch. I was never really pleased with my photos shot with flash at sync speed, so this year I am shooting near ambient and utilizing the HyperSync (not HSS) capability of the PocketWizard FlexTT5 to let the flash correct color and reduce noise. I shot primarily at 1/800-sec, f/2.8 to 3.2 and ISO at or above 6,400, and am more pleased with the images. Side benefit is I can shoot multiple shots in succession in high speed burst mode (I dial it down to the lower speed on the 1Dx).

An image at sync speed:


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pat.kane
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Nov 11, 2015 17:56 |  #129

and an image using HyperSync:


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javapop
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Nov 11, 2015 20:31 as a reply to  @ pat.kane's post |  #130

Can you share your flash settings? which flash are you using? I've never tried this.


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pat.kane
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Nov 11, 2015 21:57 |  #131

My current setup is a PocketWizard FlexTT5 on camera triggering two monopod-mounted Canon Speedlite 600EX-RTs with FlexTT5 triggers using HYPERSYNC (not HSS). The PW technology just works and it has proven much easier to get good photos than shooting with HSS or at sync speed. I shoot near ambient at 1/800-sec, f/2.8-4 and ISO 6400, and let ETTL do its thing (no FEC adjustment at all). Flashes are manually zoomed to 200mm. I should also disclose if I hadn't upgraded to the 600EX-RTs for other reasons, I'd still be using 550EX flashes in this setup with similar results.

The flashes are mounted near the bottom of the monopod using a super clamp and homemade L-bracket for each.

Have a look at this thread for additional information: http://www.fredmiranda​.com/forum/topic/13938​81/0 (external link)

This brings it full circle as I'm on POTN referencing a post on FM that references a couple posts back on this site ;)


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Zivnuska
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Nov 12, 2015 06:56 |  #132

Pat,

Those images look really good. How is battery life on your set-up?

Phil


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Nov 12, 2015 10:02 |  #133

Zivnuska wrote in post #17779683 (external link)
Actually no, the light is typical high school lighting. Hence the use of ISO 12,800. What I do to try to improve my images is shoot with an f/2.8 lens, shoot in RAW, use +1/3 exposure compensation, I don't try to shoot inside the 15 yard line (from the goal line side) without flash, and using lightroom; I open up the shadows at about +80, reduce highlights to about -80, and occasionally tweak the exposure inside the helmet with roughly a +0.30 exposure brush. If anyone has any other tricks, I'm all ears.

Phil

I am shooting with a 5d Mk3 and work for a local paper that prints my images every week. I to do almost everything you are doing. I can't get away with 12800 as often though. I usually cap it out at 6400, but occasionally will go that high. No real new or different tricks, just a confirmation that I do the same.

BK


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Nov 12, 2015 10:47 |  #134

I will shoot both ways with the flash at sync and with HSS and the power turned down about 2/3 of stop. For my sync shots I use a Neewer TT850 flash that has the Li-ion battery. My power setting is ususally around 1/4 to 1/2 and I can get 2 shot burst with no issues. When I use HSS, I'm using a Canon 580exII or my Shanny SC6000. If I bring the battery pack I can get 2 shot burst, maybe 3 if I push the exposure and shadows some. I perfer the HSS as it is easier to do to me and usually no shadows behind the players.

This is at sync:

IMAGE: http://www.maloneactionshots.com/img/s11/v35/p1630373279-4.jpg

This is HSS:

IMAGE: http://www.maloneactionshots.com/img/s8/v74/p1875493397-4.jpg

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pat.kane
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Nov 12, 2015 22:25 |  #135

Zivnuska wrote in post #17780793 (external link)
How is battery life on your set-up?

Supposedly PocketWizard's HyperSync is much more efficient in battery use than HSS.

I've always used a Quantum battery pack with my flashes though, so I'm not sure how many shots I'd get on AA batteries alone. With the Quantum pack, I can easily shoot multiple games without a recharge.

There are several MaxPreps photographers using the PocketWizard FlexTT5 setup and it was their photos that convinced me to switch.


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The Official 2015 High School Football Thread
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