Custom White Balance

For low light gyms ... if I shoot in raw, does it matter if I set a custom white balance ?

If you are shooting in raw, you can always adjust in post. The question is- do you want to get it right in camera, and not have to worry about adjusting it later?

The only suggestion I'll make is if you are not setting a custom white balance, you are going to be editing each photo for it after the fact. At least set a value for the WB and don't leave it on auto, so if you do have to make adjustments, you can do it to all the images at once, instead of having to individually adjust if auto changes the WB in between images.

Thank you !

I would suggest doing a custom white balance. Ideally you can just adjust the WB from the raw in post but there are other issues at play here. Many gyms don't have full spectrum lights, meaning they are deficient in part of the color spectrum, often lacking in red. So getting as close as you can in camera will give you the best starting point for postprocessing.

Custom WB is way too easy to do to pass on it. If I am not shooting in daylight, or with flash, I always shoot a CWB frame. It literally only takes 2 seconds.

Thanks guy's ... easy to do, I'll have to make it a habit.

Any opinions on white vs grey card ?

lacogada wrote in post #17718815
Thanks guy's ... easy to do, I'll have to make it a habit.

Any opinions on white vs grey card ?

Grey card if you have one.

Thanks

I use one of these things and it works really well

http://www.ebay.com …44171?hash=item​4ab75a8aab

lacogada wrote in post #17718815
Thanks guy's ... easy to do, I'll have to make it a habit.

Any opinions on white vs grey card ?

White vs grey does not matter for white balance. The grey cards are for setting exposure. I use a sheet of white (Brightness=96) computer paper. The stuff is cheap, disposable, and readily available. There is no sense spending money on a special made card.

the only problem with white is that if you over expose it, and it clips, it will screw up your white balance.

Shoot white on the meter reading at less than 1/120 sec & it will be gray enough for a good WB.

Typo Edit: Shutter speed should be "less than 1/120 sec", to take in consideration cycling fluorescent lights in older gyms.

Left Handed Brisket wrote in post #17719063
the only problem with white is that if you over expose it, and it clips, it will screw up your white balance.

Shooting a white subject will produce a grey photo at metered ZERO. That (underexposure) is normal meter behavior. Overexposure would have to be intentional.

PhotosGuy wrote in post #17719088
Shoot white on the meter reading at less than 1/200 sec & it will be gray enough for a good WB.

I don't think one leg of the triange has much bearing on the other two. A meter-centered shot of a while piece of paper used to set custom white balance has nothing to do with exposure.

I can sit in a Na-vapor lamp lit gym, shoot my white piece of paper and use it to set a very accurate CWB.

WB and exposure are two entirely separate, and totally unrelated settings. WB accounts for the COLOR of the light. Exposure accounts for how much of it you gather.

GeoKras1989 wrote in post #17719127
WB and exposure are two entirely separate, and totally unrelated settings. WB accounts for the COLOR of the light. Exposure accounts for how much of it you gather.

Shoot volleyball later today, will try the CWB.

Thanks

lacogada wrote in post #17719155
Shoot volleyball later today, will try the CWB.

Thanks

Make sure you do it in the light your SUBJECTS will be in. Some of our local schools have upgraded the floor/court lighting while leaving the crappy lighting in the stands/spectator area. If it is different, just walk to courtside and snap your CWB frame with your paper facing the light the players will be in.