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Thread started 28 Sep 2015 (Monday) 00:19
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Basic settings for macro, Live View screen black...

 
Dynalmadman
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Post edited over 8 years ago by Dynalmadman. (2 edits in all)
     
Sep 28, 2015 00:19 |  #1

Hi guys,

Been a while, but I am back. Quick question about camera settings. I read, and loved, LordV's tutorial on macro, and am now trying to incorporate the info into our macro shots.

Canon 70D, Canon 600EX-rt, Canon Macro 100L.

Using LordV's suggestion, I am using M, 200 iso, 1/250, varying f-stop for effect, flash on hotshoe, TTL. Using live view to focus, I can't figure out how to get the screen to show what is in viewfinder until I half-press the shutter. I would like to be able to see what is framed and do the focus without having to press the shutter at all until I am ready to shoot. At present, the view is black until I give the shutter a half press. Then it displays fine, until I let go.

I am sure this is something basic, but I cannot figure it out.

Thanks to all, this place is amazing, and a HUGE thank you to LordV. The knowledge is great.
Michael

IMAGE: https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5654/21846917102_fdb063af5b_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/zhxa​jw  (external link) Spider280915.jpg (external link) by Michael (external link), on Flickr

What I had 10 years ago (All gone, don't ask.):
70D, 100L macro, Tamron SP 24-70mm F/2.8 Di VC USD, Magic Lantern, 600ex-rt, FotoPro Mini5, Macbook Pro 15" i7.
What I am looking at now:
I am going to start with the 24-70 2.8 glass. Some R body to pair it with.

  
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MalVeauX
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Sep 28, 2015 00:31 |  #2

Heya,

For moving subjects, don't use live view.

Otherwise, if you want it to not focus, use back-button-focus so that you can focus when you want to, and simply meter with the other button, so that you can always see what's going on in live view by having it meter, but that way you only focus when you want.

Custom functions -> AE/Shutter button -> 3 (default is 0)

Very best,


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Dynalmadman
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Sep 28, 2015 00:59 |  #3

MalVeauX wrote in post #17724383 (external link)
if you want it to not focus, use back-button-focus so that you can focus when you want to

The rear focus button. Excellent, thank you.

MalVeauX wrote in post #17724383 (external link)
Custom functions -> AE/Shutter button -> 3 (default is 0)

This I cannot find. My camera has 3 custom setting tabs, none of which is AE/Shutter.

Thank you so much for responding.
Michael


What I had 10 years ago (All gone, don't ask.):
70D, 100L macro, Tamron SP 24-70mm F/2.8 Di VC USD, Magic Lantern, 600ex-rt, FotoPro Mini5, Macbook Pro 15" i7.
What I am looking at now:
I am going to start with the 24-70 2.8 glass. Some R body to pair it with.

  
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Scatterbrained
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Sep 28, 2015 01:10 |  #4

Check to see if exposure simulation is turned on in your Live View settings.


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Post edited over 8 years ago by Archibald.
     
Sep 28, 2015 01:11 |  #5

Dynalmadman wrote in post #17724417 (external link)
The rear focus button. Excellent, thank you.

This I cannot find. My camera has 3 custom setting tabs, none of which is AE/Shutter.

Thank you so much for responding.
Michael

There is a resource here.
http://www.p4pictures.​com …-setup-back-button-focus/ (external link)

BBF is great, and I use it for my macro, but regular focus using the shutter button also works. I would set the camera to use the center AF focus point only. Then go for it.


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Dynalmadman
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Sep 28, 2015 01:13 |  #6

Scatterbrained wrote in post #17724425 (external link)
Check to see if exposure simulation is turned on in your Live View settings.

You are the man, sir! That was it. Thank you.

Michael


What I had 10 years ago (All gone, don't ask.):
70D, 100L macro, Tamron SP 24-70mm F/2.8 Di VC USD, Magic Lantern, 600ex-rt, FotoPro Mini5, Macbook Pro 15" i7.
What I am looking at now:
I am going to start with the 24-70 2.8 glass. Some R body to pair it with.

  
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DreDaze
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Sep 28, 2015 01:25 |  #7

as long as you have the exposure simulation on, i'd continue to use live view, and instead of focusing, just move the camera in and out to attain focus


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Scatterbrained
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Sep 28, 2015 01:26 |  #8

DreDaze wrote in post #17724435 (external link)
as long as you have the exposure simulation on, i'd continue to use live view, and instead of focusing, just move the camera in and out to attain focus

With exposure simulation on, you cant see anything. ;)


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Sep 28, 2015 01:31 |  #9

Scatterbrained wrote in post #17724440 (external link)
With exposure simulation on, you cant see anything. ;)

whoops...time for bed


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LordV
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Sep 30, 2015 13:09 |  #10

Just a thought- I've never used liveview with ETTL flash as there is too long a delay between pressing the shutter and the picture being taken.
Brian v.


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Oct 01, 2015 22:15 |  #11

LordV wrote in post #17727757 (external link)
Just a thought- I've never used liveview with ETTL flash as there is too long a delay between pressing the shutter and the picture being taken.
Brian v.

Interesting. I use mirror lockup and 2 sec shutter delay most times anyway to minimize the shake. Not as young as I used to be. Although, if I am strobing with the flash, I guess these steps could be extraneous...Will have to look into that more. Thanks!

Michael


What I had 10 years ago (All gone, don't ask.):
70D, 100L macro, Tamron SP 24-70mm F/2.8 Di VC USD, Magic Lantern, 600ex-rt, FotoPro Mini5, Macbook Pro 15" i7.
What I am looking at now:
I am going to start with the 24-70 2.8 glass. Some R body to pair it with.

  
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Dalantech
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Oct 03, 2015 11:40 |  #12

Dynalmadman wrote in post #17729629 (external link)
Interesting. I use mirror lockup and 2 sec shutter delay most times anyway to minimize the shake. Not as young as I used to be. Although, if I am strobing with the flash, I guess these steps could be extraneous...Will have to look into that more. Thanks!

Michael

Odds are, if the flash is the only light source, then mirror lock up won't do much for you. The flash should be able to freeze any vibration induced by the mirror if the camera is on a tripod. No worries at all if you are hand holding, since you're probably bracing the camera from two points (funny thing is that using a tripod can actually make a camera less stable due to there being a single connection point between the tripod and camera).

Was looking at your OP and noticed that you use your flash camera mounted. It's best to get it off the camera and as close as possible to what you're shooting to improve diffusion (better specular highlights) and to get the flash duration as short as possible (to help freeze motion). Also light that's hitting the subject in line with the lens looks "flat" and unflattering. Getting the flash out on a bracket, at and angle, will give you better looking light.


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Dynalmadman
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Oct 03, 2015 21:03 as a reply to  @ Dalantech's post |  #13

Thanks for the reply. Yah, I am rethinking the mirror lockup and the 2 sec delay.

I understand the flash location thing, but one step at a time for me. I am first getting comfortable with the camera and the manual settings. Then I can worry about moving the flash around. I have used it as a slave with actuation from the camera flash, but that entails figuring out where to put the flash down, or figuring out how to hold the flash to the side with one hand and the camera with the other.

I'll get there, but probably not today!
Michael


What I had 10 years ago (All gone, don't ask.):
70D, 100L macro, Tamron SP 24-70mm F/2.8 Di VC USD, Magic Lantern, 600ex-rt, FotoPro Mini5, Macbook Pro 15" i7.
What I am looking at now:
I am going to start with the 24-70 2.8 glass. Some R body to pair it with.

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
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