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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 30 Sep 2015 (Wednesday) 12:05
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How do I use these studio lights

 
Iamjhil
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Sep 30, 2015 12:05 |  #1

A friend is giving me some lighting from a building he just purchased.

Third pic in next post shows the old connection.

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Big ­ Frost
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Sep 30, 2015 12:12 |  #2

Quick Google search...

http://www.photogenic.​com …ad.aspx?type=ma​nual&id=31 (external link)



Photos By Frost (external link)
Facebook (external link)

  
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Iamjhil
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Oct 02, 2015 14:48 |  #3

thanks. i couldn't find a manual online, i must have been searching wrong.. i'm an idiot.

My lights are connected to a studio master, what the best trigger i can put on my camera to make these lights work..

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Matthew ­ Patrick
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Post edited over 8 years ago by Matthew Patrick.
     
Oct 02, 2015 15:12 |  #4

These lights might be more trouble than they're worth. If someone offered them to me, I'd probably pass.

They could be triggered by another flash if they have an optical slave feature, or you could use a pc sync cord if they have a jack. If they have the jack then you could probably use wireless triggers.

Do you plan on installing the whole rail system at your place, that could be a very frustrating undertaking.

You might be better off buying some cheap flashes, lightstands, and modifiers.

They have little to no monetary value, so I doubt you would be able to sell them.

What happens if you set up the rail system and then the lights start malfunctioning?




  
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Wilt
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Post edited over 8 years ago by Wilt. (4 edits in all)
     
Oct 02, 2015 17:49 |  #5

'How' to use the hardware is simplicity (sorta)...

  • Off/four levels of output power
  • Modelling light off/(intermediate???)/​full brightness
  • Optically triggered (very low powered flash on camera hotshoe)



1 specular Main (reflector)
1 diffuse Fill (softbox)

If it works you need a flashmeter, or do a how lot of experimenting trying to determine Full power Guide Number for ISO 100, and by how much each fractional setting reduces output (first assumption is each fractional setting cuts output by -1EV

[edit] reading the owner manual takes so much mystery out of it!!! The optical trigger pulls out of a socket which is also for cable connected trigger...the question is which two pins have to be used to actually trigger the flash!
Guide Number data is provided in the user manual, so a lot of mystery is taken out of that, too.

The doubt that remains is if the unit will FUNCTION...power capacitors are supposed to have power applied to them periodically (every month, every 3 months, every 6 months, depending upon manufacturer recommendation), called 're-forming the capacitor'.
If the unit has been idle for years, either the power capacitor will a) not work at all, or b) work after the unit has been plugged in an left turned On for a few hours, or c) surprise you and work immediately.

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NDAPhoto
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Post edited over 8 years ago by NDAPhoto.
     
Oct 03, 2015 09:06 |  #6

30 years ago, these lights were a great set up. Today, not so much, though they'll probably work as they did back then. Photogenic still makes gear that lasts. However, you'll probably be much happier with newer electronics and features. The rigs and modifiers might still be worth keeping, but the Photogenic mount is rare and not a common fit.




  
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windpig
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Oct 03, 2015 11:21 |  #7

Having that rail system would be pretty neeto. Pull the lights and replace with new. It all depends on what you wanna shoot.


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Foodguy
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Oct 04, 2015 18:28 |  #8

I'd use them in a heartbeat...provided that they work. Why not, it's just a light source.

I couldn't access the manual but would assume that the 'trigger' is an optical slave that could be fired via another strobe, or removed and if it's household plug underneath, a simple cord from a pocket wizard will do the trick.


My answer for most photography questions: "it depends...'

  
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nathancarter
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Oct 05, 2015 14:02 |  #9

That rail system looks great.


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RicoTudor
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Oct 05, 2015 23:32 as a reply to  @ nathancarter's post |  #10

I want one of those pantographs. :) The shooting space, OTOH, looks to be a dingy and confined office. Hard to understand why a complete rail-based lighting system would be installed in such a place.


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poloman
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Oct 06, 2015 09:01 |  #11

You'll be best off replacing the lights and using the track only. Modern that are continuously adjustable will be an asset. You must get a light meter that allows you to read the ratio of one light to another. This way you can repeat a set up every time you work. A Sekonic L-358 is a good choice though you may find the instructions a little esoteric.


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Wilt
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Post edited over 8 years ago by Wilt. (2 edits in all)
     
Oct 06, 2015 09:21 |  #12

poloman wrote in post #17735037 (external link)
You'll be best off replacing the lights and using the track only. Modern that are continuously adjustable will be an asset. You must get a light meter that allows you to read the ratio of one light to another. This way you can repeat a set up every time you work. A Sekonic L-358 is a good choice though you may find the instructions a little esoteric.

For the OP who is probably overwhelmed already, think of this as an luxury, yet not a have-to-have...after all, continuous lighting decades ago had no power level adjustment apart from changing the distance-to-subject for one specific light source. I think continuously variable power is a luxury for a beginner, who probably has some difficulty to see smaller power adjustments than 0.5EV, and for whom even 0.1EV adjustment is overkill and gilding the lily.


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How do I use these studio lights
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