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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 01 Oct 2015 (Thursday) 09:20
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ISO on 70D When Using Flash

 
Bassat
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Sep 28, 2017 06:09 |  #46

John Sheehy wrote in post #18462025 (external link)
I was talking about a possible custom function that allows ISO to drop from a manual setting to avoid over-exposure. Canon started including this a few years ago.

It is not available in M mode in the cameras I have that have it.

Just checked both 6D and 80D. In Manual mode, ISO set to 400 and Safety-Shift set to ISO, both cameras will allow extreme overexposure, well past blown highlights. ISO setting remains at 400, even for the overexposure.


Tom

  
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tspencer1
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Sep 28, 2017 06:35 as a reply to  @ Bassat's post |  #47

Same with my 70D. Makes no sense.




  
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apersson850
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Sep 28, 2017 09:28 |  #48

Of course it does. It's manual mode. There's no exposure compensation, so you setting the parameters is the only way you can tell how bright you want the picture to be.

The user's guide clearly states that ISO safety shift is for P, Tv and Av only.


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Sep 28, 2017 09:51 |  #49

Now that we have the ability to float the ISO and bias it one way or another with EC in manual mode, I don't see why the safety shift couldn't also be applied now. All the functionality is in place. If in M mode, it sees that you are about to run the exposure off the cliff either way, it could apply the safety to change the ISO for you. It could even be a 2nd option that the user sets to allow it to apply or not to M. Not sure how useful it would be generally, but in special situations it could be useful. In any case, it COULD be done, but I doubt it ever will.


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Charlie
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Post edited 9 months ago by Charlie.
     
Sep 28, 2017 12:31 |  #50

tspencer1 wrote in post #18461360 (external link)
Any recommendations on where to look for decent used Canon speedlites?

skip it and buy godox

https://www.amazon.com …ywords=godox+tt​685c&psc=1 (external link)

assuming your shutter speed is 1/125 in low light, make sure the flash is set on TTL.

using F2.8 lens, ISO 800
using F4, ISO 1600
using F5.6, ISO 3200

do this in manual mode

this should get you in the ballpark. If background too dark, lower the shutter a little and raise the ISO a little. Try not to lower shutter too much, may get camera shake.

EDIT: stay away from autoiso + flash, doesnt seem to work well with canon, go manual mode, and set values as seen above. you can probably shoot the whole night without issue. If you have a variable aperture lens, set to ISO 1600.


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John ­ Sheehy
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Sep 28, 2017 13:58 |  #51

Bassat wrote in post #18462029 (external link)
I'm pretty sure every Canon camera I've ever had does that, but I'm not sure about Manual mode. Let me check my 6D/80D.

6D and 7D2 have it, but not in M mode. If you like your lens wide open, then you can simulate it with Tv mode, because the camera will not stop down the lens when it can drop the ISO first. If you like your lens stopped down exactly 2/3 stop or something like that, many cameras won't allow that degree of control for the floating Av value. The Tv and Av automated range limits that most of the cameras I've tried them on have, are pathetic.




  
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Sep 28, 2017 14:03 as a reply to  @ Charlie's post |  #52

Thanks Charlie - appreciate the tips. You use a Godox unit?




  
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John ­ Sheehy
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Sep 28, 2017 14:03 |  #53

apersson850 wrote in post #18462101 (external link)
Of course it does. It's manual mode. There's no exposure compensation, so you setting the parameters is the only way you can tell how bright you want the picture to be.

The user's guide clearly states that ISO safety shift is for P, Tv and Av only.

There's no reason that they couldn't have it for M mode, even without EC. If you're shooting RAW, the ratio of ambient to flash is what matters the most. If you use HTP, your RAWs can handle more accidental over-exposure.




  
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John ­ Sheehy
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Sep 28, 2017 14:18 |  #54

John Sheehy wrote in post #18462277 (external link)
6D and 7D2 have it, but not in M mode. If you like your lens wide open, then you can simulate it with Tv mode, because the camera will not stop down the lens when it can drop the ISO first. If you like your lens stopped down exactly 2/3 stop or something like that, many cameras won't allow that degree of control for the floating Av value. The Tv and Av automated range limits that most of the cameras I've tried them on have, are pathetic.

On second thought, now that I read what I wrote there, I think I might be mixing my memories with some other mode of operation, like auto-ISO in Tv mode without flash (lens stays open as much as possible) .

I'll have to try this again; I haven't done it in a couple of years. Perhaps you can't keep the lens wide open per se, but have to choose a range. None of my cameras allow you to lock a single f-number in Tv-Pri mode, IIRC.




  
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Charlie
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Sep 28, 2017 15:06 |  #55

tspencer1 wrote in post #18462283 (external link)
Thanks Charlie - appreciate the tips. You use a Godox unit?

Yes, I use Godox as well as many others. They offer the most robust system and low prices. They offer a revolutionary system, and if you shoot Canon, Nikon, Sony, or Fuji, Godox should be your flash of choice.

The tt685c is comparable to the Canon rt600....

Read up on it here: https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1455540


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apersson850
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Sep 28, 2017 16:10 |  #56

John Sheehy wrote in post #18462284 (external link)
There's no reason that they couldn't have it for M mode, even without EC. If you're shooting RAW, the ratio of ambient to flash is what matters the most. If you use HTP, your RAWs can handle more accidental over-exposure.

There is a good reason, and that's consistency in how the camera behaves. What you describe could be done, but you would have even less of an idea of how your picture comes out, before you see it, than in the regular automatic modes.


Anders

  
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Oct 06, 2017 09:45 as a reply to  @ apersson850's post |  #57

So here is a photo indicative of my tries last week.
1/200; f14 and ISO 800
Background is just about properly exposed. Flash was used but came out dark. Thankfully, I was not the primary shooter and was just practicing. Thank gosh.

Questions: why so dark? I was fairly close to the subjects (maybe 10 ft). Yes, I can drop the aperture, but wouldn't that blowout the background?

Pls ignore the softness of this one - not sure why - I took many non-flash that came out just fine.

Thx all,

Tim


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DreDaze
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Oct 06, 2017 10:45 |  #58

F14, ISO 800? Why?


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tspencer1
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Oct 06, 2017 11:17 as a reply to  @ DreDaze's post |  #59

ISO 800 because when the camera defaults to ISO 400 on my flash shots, they have been coming out dark. f14 because at 1/200 shutter, that's what got me proper overall exposure - according to the settings before I popped up the flash.




  
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John ­ from ­ PA
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Oct 06, 2017 11:22 |  #60

tspencer1 wrote in post #18461360 (external link)
Any recommendations on where to look for decent used Canon speedlites?

Not sure if the prices are good, but I can vouch for the Canon refurbs. The one I bought was essentially new!

https://shop.usa.canon​.com …rbished-speedlite-flashes (external link)




  
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ISO on 70D When Using Flash
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