Extra prime for wedding ?

He doesn't say he is a wedding pro. He was looking for advice, not some condescending remark about giving up the gig. Take a look at his gear list. I don't think money is an issue with him.

"Any tips for best positions in the church, at the back somewhere hidden not to bother the audience too much?"

I take center aisle for the processional.. Once that is over I head to the last row of audience members and stay there most of the time. I move in close for the ring exchange.

Make SURE you are not blocking the Grooms view when the bride is walking down the Aisle.


Feel free to message me if there is something you want to ask privately


Good luck.

Brad999 wrote in post #17867103
He doesn't say he is a wedding pro. He was looking for advice, not some condescending remark about giving up the gig. Take a look at his gear list. I don't think money is an issue with him. Who knows, maybe he is someone's last resort and he is trying to pull it off for them.

Still no reason to go in ill prepared or ill equipped. The stated reason was to save some space, if you are going to do it, do it right.

Finally, you gave him the advice he needs. Took some arm twisting, but you got there.

wallstreetoneil wrote in post #17764809
The advantage of Raw versus medium raw is ability to fix things in PS

My routine is do everything I want to do in LR and then tag the photos I want to do more in PS
- fix clothing, fix skin, body sculpt, fix double chin, etc
- for all of the above more pixels equals better as the image hold together better
- and similarly, why I will use my 5dsr if I know I want to use PS

I go with the multiple 32 gig card route (but multiple 16gig even 8s are fine) - and switch during the day a few times for safety reasons. I shoot with dual card cameras so I don't do backups during the day but if I were you I would have some way to do a backup.

I have done eyefi on the 2nd card using Protect button to send jpgs to a Notebook but I never found it reliable enough - that was my only reason for jpgs - but with next gen wifi cameras may be useful again to do it.

SLR Lounge has an interesting test about this.

https://www.slrlounge.​com …dynamic-range-comparison/

Brad999 wrote in post #17867116
Finally, you gave him the advice he needs. Took some arm twisting, but you got there.

And yet I didnt change a thing..

scorpio_e wrote in post #17867128
SLR Lounge has an interesting test about this.

https://www.slrlounge.​com …dynamic-range-comparison/

mRaw
- is all about recovery of shadows
- mraw basically butchers shadow recovery potential - sraw isn't really much different than mraw - the damage has already been done
- on the 5DSR, that I now use, the biggest improvement in the sensor over the 5D3 is shadow recovery
- but drop down to mRaw on the 5DSR and you may as well be using a 5D3 (it is actually worse - much worse)

for the 5DSR, if you shoot a black clothing material against a back light situation (sky), spot meter for the sky to set exposure, and then take a picture in Raw, mRaw, sRaw, if you then lift shadows by 100%, reduce highlights by 100% and lift overall exposure by 1 stop, in Raw you will have an ok picture, in mRaw the shadows / blacks will be green - similar to sRaw

You can see for yourself below

5DSR as is

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/DeRj​Qp

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/DeRi​NK

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/CNCA​fg

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/CpJT​oe

wallstreetoneil wrote in post #17867143
mRaw
- is all about recovery of shadows
- mraw basically butchers shadow recovery potential - sraw isn't really much different than mraw - the damage has already been done
- on the 5DSR, that I now use, the biggest improvement in the sensor over the 5D3 is shadow recovery
- but drop down to mRaw on the 5DSR and you may as well be using a 5D3 (it is actually worse - much worse)

for the 5DSR, if you shoot a black clothing material against a back light situation (sky), spot meter for the sky to set exposure, and then take a picture in Raw, mRaw, sRaw, if you then lift shadows by 100%, reduce highlights by 100% and lift overall exposure by 1 stop, in Raw you will have an ok picture, in mRaw the shadows / blacks will be green - similar to sRaw

You can see for yourself below

5DSR as is

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/DeRj​Qp 5dsr_raw-4 by Paul O'Neil, on Flickr

5DSR full raw

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/DeRi​NK 5dsr_raw by Paul O'Neil, on Flickr

5DSR mRaw

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/CNCA​fg 5dsr_raw-2 by Paul O'Neil, on Flickr

5DSR sRaw

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/CpJT​oe 5dsr_raw-3 by Paul O'Neil, on Flickr

SLR did not research the 5DSR model. The article states the results are different from camera model to camera model. Thanks for sharing your results

Back to the OP's original question about primes.

If you have the 24-70 2.8 & 70-200 2.8 you've pretty much got all the focal lengths covered with two L class lenses that give primes a run for the money.

What you need to find is a lens that does something these two superb lenses don't.

For that you should consider a macro lens, probably a 50 mm, for cake, ring, hair, buttonholes, and so on. All the little detail that you need to take before the ceremony starts. Macro is often at an f stop 5.6 or higher, so don't worry about something to expensive.

As to where you should stand, bear in mind you may not be given a choice! Speak to the official as early as possible and find put what the house rules are, this will tell you where you are standing snf what lens to use.

If you are given a choice, stand where you can make the most of the available light with s clear view of the couple and the guests.

35 1.4 for me.

wow these are great tips!!!

I'll say fast 35mm (1.4 or f/2) and 135mm f/2.

sure you did. You went from telling him to quit the gig to giving him advice on being prepared. There is a huge difference in telling someone to be prepared with extra cards and shooting RAW then to answer their question with your original tone by putting him down.