Canon Version 1 300mm F2.8 IS vs Non IS?

Is there any difference in terms of Sharpness between these lenses? Non IS goes for about $2,000 while the IS version hits $3,000.

DJHaze596 wrote in post #17785350
Is there any difference in terms of Sharpness between these lenses? Non IS goes for about $2,000 while the IS version hits $3,000.

Heya,

Yes. But it's very minor. It's most noticeable when you start to use a TC.

That said, the 300 F2.8 non-IS around $2k is worth it. The extra $1k for the IS version would be for someone that needs every last drop of performance and is willing to pay for it, without getting into the 400 F2.8L IS range.

Very best,

With the IS you will get, well IS, faster more accurate AF (though the non IS is still VERY good) closer minimum focus distance, lighter weight, and as mentioned, better T-Con performance, much better as the IS unit was launched with the MkII T-Cons which were designed to match the IS lens exactly.

Another factor is the AF unit in the older models is "fly by wire" no power, no manual focus either. The unit is no longer repairable by canon, which may or may not matter to you.

CyberDyneSystems wrote in post #17785372
Another factor is the AF unit in the older models is "fly by wire" no power, no manual focus either. The unit is no longer repairable by canon, which may or may not matter to you.

Well I currently have the 300mm f4L, Not sure what the focus motor inside of is but how is Manual Focus not possible?

I would echo CyberDyne's comments. The "old" 300 f2.8 is still an excellent lens but if anything goes wrong (it probably won't but?????) then you are stuffed! The IS version is better but the original is so good that the difference is not that much. However you should consider the lack of serviceability of the Non IS version and the better performance with extenders. Additionally, for many, the IS function is very useful - I rarely if ever use IS but many like it - I don't but that is just me!
If you can afford it the I would suggest you go for the newer version, if you simply can't then the non IS model is still a very good lens - but if it goes wrong you may have a paperweight.
Decisions, decisions!

DJHaze596 wrote in post #17785390
Well I currently have the 300mm f4L, Not sure what the focus motor inside of is but how is Manual Focus not possible?

On these older models (this includes the 200m f/1.8L, 400mm f/2.8L etc.. ) the focus ring is not connected to the focus lens elements mechanically. Instead, they are essentially electronic switches, that happen to be physically similar in look and feel to a focus ring. Twisting the ring activates a motor, which in tun focuses the lens. The feel of these rings was amazing, smooth as butter. 3 speeds could be assigned to the ring based on user preference. The downside is that if you don't have a functioning focus motor, the lens can not be focused under any circumstances, no manual focus.

The 300mm f/4L is not at all part of this equation. It has the "normal" manual focus ring that is physically connected to the focus assembly.

If you find one for a good price, go for it.

I have one and when it comes to IQ, it beats my EF 100mm 2.8L macro lens at wide open aperture!
Well they both are super sharp, but EF 300 2.8L is just a hair better anyway.

EF 300 2.8L USM has absolutely flawless image quality - except some ghosting if shooting against bright light like sun.

Autofocus is also quite fast for most situations (EF 300 4L USM has a little bit faster AF tho).

Actual AF mechanism/USM motor barely never fails. How ever, if AF fails to operate, it is most likely caused by DC/DC converter failure.
This is tiny electronic device / PCB inside the lens, which boosts up the voltage required by USM motor. Simple device, which can be repaired quite easily by electronics technician.