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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 13 Dec 2015 (Sunday) 11:21
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daughter portraits

 
ceriltheblade
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Dec 13, 2015 11:21 |  #1

Hi there folks
getting ready to do some portraits of my daughter outside and inside (mostly outside)
and am considering a shopping list of lighting to purchase.
I usually am quite happy with my single canon 600, but some of the styles that we are thinking of doing - need more light units.

When I started the research for this - I was convinced that a softbox was a necessity and "obviously" better than umbrellas
but as I read more I got more confused and it seems that some umbrellas are quite useful and give good light
and on top of that
are super easily portable! :)

so for some of the shots, I was thinking of getting a triple color reflector,and
i am unsure if to add 1 more 600 to the mix - or two.
with umbrella, stand, holder etc (or two)
i most likely will not be using it again after doing this series - though this series is very important to me.

trigger will be the 5d3 connection with the 600s

any ideas?

many thanks.


7D/5dIII
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8-15 FE, 10-22, 16-35 IS, 24-105, 70-200 f4IS, 100-400 ii, tamron 28-75 2.8
600 ex-rt, 055xproB/488rc2/Sirui k40x, kenko extens tubes

  
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FarmerTed1971
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Dec 13, 2015 11:25 |  #2

Get the ST-E3-RT and get that flash off camera. Two flashes with one umbrella and one other small modifier like a octabox is an excellent combo.


Getting better at this - Fuji X-t5 & X-t3 - 16 1.4 - 35/50/90 f2 - 50-140 - flickr (external link) - www.scottaticephoto.co​m (external link)

  
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gonzogolf
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Dec 13, 2015 11:38 |  #3

Without more specifics on the styles you are wanting to do its hard to give exact advice. For speedlites umbrellas have 1 significant advantage over softboxes, basically bang for the buck. Softboxes for speedlite tend to get expensive if you go much larger than the standard 24 inch ez box style. Umbrellas are bigger and therefore softer so you get big soft light cheaper with umbrellas. Umbrellas however give you less control over where the light goes. But fortunately there is some middle ground to be considered. Umbrella softboxes like the softlighter and similar clones offer more control than a regular umbrella both in terms of light and also battling the wind outside.

As for your outside shoots. Don't dismiss the amount you can do with a single light using the sun as a rim light and ambient for fill. Sometimes simpler is better.




  
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MalVeauX
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Post edited over 7 years ago by MalVeauX.
     
Dec 13, 2015 12:06 |  #4

ceriltheblade wrote in post #17817406 (external link)
Hi there folks
getting ready to do some portraits of my daughter outside and inside (mostly outside)
and am considering a shopping list of lighting to purchase.
I usually am quite happy with my single canon 600, but some of the styles that we are thinking of doing - need more light units.

When I started the research for this - I was convinced that a softbox was a necessity and "obviously" better than umbrellas
but as I read more I got more confused and it seems that some umbrellas are quite useful and give good light
and on top of that
are super easily portable! :)

so for some of the shots, I was thinking of getting a triple color reflector,and
i am unsure if to add 1 more 600 to the mix - or two.
with umbrella, stand, holder etc (or two)
i most likely will not be using it again after doing this series - though this series is very important to me.

trigger will be the 5d3 connection with the 600s

any ideas?

many thanks.

Heya,

I'd get a 2nd light. Speedlites can do the job just fine. Having a second light though really gives you options. If working outside you can use the natural light source (sun) as fill or rim/hair. Then use your speedlite as key, or as fill depending on what you want it to look like. A 2nd light gives you the 3rd light in the setup, or it can be ganged up with the key light to make for a more powerful light setup which is very useful.

Umbrellas are portable and great, but they also are hard to use outside by yourself because they are parachutes to wind. I have to stake down my stands when using modifiers outside, or the wind will take it over. Another option for modifier are umbrella softboxes.

Here's an example: Link (external link) - inexpensive, very decent, good light output.

I have a 47" one that I use, along with umbrellas. I like the softboxes that are umbrella types, they break down fast and are portable just like umbrellas, but have more control on light, less spill and can take grids if you need it. Also, you can get a large modifier like this very close to subjects on a boom.

Here's a recent thing I did with some speedlites and umbrellas outside: Link

All that is really important is a boom stand, large modifier very close to subject if possible, and a way to stake down your stand so it doesn't topple in wind, etc.

Very best,


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TonyKInTexas
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Dec 13, 2015 16:21 |  #5

Keep her out of hard, contrasty light. Instead think more shadows where you can have even lighting and then use just a small amount of fill lighting to add pop. This way she won't have deep, dark shadows, her eyes won't be squinting and the images will be easier to work with. Just some thoughts.


Tony
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ceriltheblade
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Dec 14, 2015 00:17 |  #6

FarmerTed1971 wrote in post #17817411 (external link)
Get the ST-E3-RT and get that flash off camera. Two flashes with one umbrella and one other small modifier like a octabox is an excellent combo.

many thanks for this. What would a st-e3 rt give me that the radio control of the 5d3 won't give me? Range? It seems that most poeple are for the 2 speedlight combo with the sun. It seems that it is the way to go.

gonzogolf wrote in post #17817421 (external link)
Without more specifics on the styles you are wanting to do its hard to give exact advice. For speedlites umbrellas have 1 significant advantage over softboxes, basically bang for the buck. Softboxes for speedlite tend to get expensive if you go much larger than the standard 24 inch ez box style. Umbrellas are bigger and therefore softer so you get big soft light cheaper with umbrellas. Umbrellas however give you less control over where the light goes. But fortunately there is some middle ground to be considered. Umbrella softboxes like the softlighter and similar clones offer more control than a regular umbrella both in terms of light and also battling the wind outside.

As for your outside shoots. Don't dismiss the amount you can do with a single light using the sun as a rim light and ambient for fill. Sometimes simpler is better.

Thanks for this. We are aiming to go around the city and do some various shots. We have a beach, various little parks with flowers, etc. I have looked at some of the umbrellas - and there are the softbox ones like you mentioned, and parabolic and more and more. I haven't gotten to my final shopping list, but I am zeroing in on it.

MalVeauX wrote in post #17817445 (external link)
Heya,

I'd get a 2nd light. Speedlites can do the job just fine. Having a second light though really gives you options. If working outside you can use the natural light source (sun) as fill or rim/hair. Then use your speedlite as key, or as fill depending on what you want it to look like. A 2nd light gives you the 3rd light in the setup, or it can be ganged up with the key light to make for a more powerful light setup which is very useful.

Umbrellas are portable and great, but they also are hard to use outside by yourself because they are parachutes to wind. I have to stake down my stands when using modifiers outside, or the wind will take it over. Another option for modifier are umbrella softboxes.

Here's an example: Link (external link) - inexpensive, very decent, good light output.

I have a 47" one that I use, along with umbrellas. I like the softboxes that are umbrella types, they break down fast and are portable just like umbrellas, but have more control on light, less spill and can take grids if you need it. Also, you can get a large modifier like this very close to subjects on a boom.

Here's a recent thing I did with some speedlites and umbrellas outside: Link

All that is really important is a boom stand, large modifier very close to subject if possible, and a way to stake down your stand so it doesn't topple in wind, etc.

Very best,

thanks a lot for the very practical input. I will plan on bringing a sand bag. Thanks also for the examples. Those are great!

TonyKInTexas wrote in post #17817706 (external link)
Keep her out of hard, contrasty light. Instead think more shadows where you can have even lighting and then use just a small amount of fill lighting to add pop. This way she won't have deep, dark shadows, her eyes won't be squinting and the images will be easier to work with. Just some thoughts.

excellent advice. thanks


7D/5dIII
50 1.8 II, MP-E65, 85 II, 100 IS
8-15 FE, 10-22, 16-35 IS, 24-105, 70-200 f4IS, 100-400 ii, tamron 28-75 2.8
600 ex-rt, 055xproB/488rc2/Sirui k40x, kenko extens tubes

  
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FarmerTed1971
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Post edited over 7 years ago by FarmerTed1971. (2 edits in all)
     
Dec 14, 2015 01:58 |  #7

Yes, it can control a ton of RT speedlites. Not sure of the range but it has not let me down yet.

Here's a great review...
http://www.the-digital-picture.com …tter-ST-E3-RT-Review.aspx (external link)

Edit: range is 100+ feet.


Getting better at this - Fuji X-t5 & X-t3 - 16 1.4 - 35/50/90 f2 - 50-140 - flickr (external link) - www.scottaticephoto.co​m (external link)

  
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Ulysses01
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Post edited over 7 years ago by Ulysses01. (2 edits in all)
     
Dec 14, 2015 09:08 |  #8

ceriltheblade wrote in post #17818140 (external link)
We are aiming to go around the city and do some various shots. We have a beach, various little parks with flowers, etc. I have looked at some of the umbrellas - and there are the softbox ones like you mentioned, and parabolic and more and more. I haven't gotten to my final shopping list, but I am zeroing in on

My best advice is to keep things simple, lightweight, portable, and minimal, especially if you're out and about in town going to different locations.

Lighting is a bit of a growth process. If you overdo it on the lights and the modifiers, I can almost guarantee you'll have a closet and a car trunk full of unused gear, and a photo shoot full of frustration. :-)

Focus on one light, using the Sun or reflected light as your secondary light source. Use two lights at most. As for modifiers, if you're on your own without a paid assistant to help with the gear, don't go above 30 inches in size. The slightest breeze will make your gear take a tumble.

Above all, you want the time and concentration to go into your daughter's good time and her expression. Too much attention on your gear will make for a poor shoot no matter how much you might enjoy the lighting experiment during the shoot. Whatever you buy, get to know the gear thoroughly PRIOR to the shoot so that the shoot doesn't become about the GEAR. :-)

Have a great time!




  
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Echo63
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Dec 14, 2015 09:21 |  #9

FarmerTed1971 wrote in post #17818185 (external link)
Yes, it can control a ton of RT speedlites. Not sure of the range but it has not let me down yet.

Here's a great review...
http://www.the-digital-picture.com …tter-ST-E3-RT-Review.aspx (external link)

Edit: range is 100+ feet.

I reckon it will go further than 100ft (30m)
I rigged 3x 600EX in a bus and had them right in the edge of their range at 20m, another 2 steps and it wouldnt work at all
But in testing, they work from one end of our office to the other, at least 50m
So it really depends on location and what you have in the way.

The ST-E3/600EX combo is an amazing system - has been very reliable for me


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FarmerTed1971
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Dec 14, 2015 09:23 |  #10

And I was just reading last night (in the above linked review) that you can add more cameras with ST-E3's on them and control them all with one master unit. That's quite amazing.


Getting better at this - Fuji X-t5 & X-t3 - 16 1.4 - 35/50/90 f2 - 50-140 - flickr (external link) - www.scottaticephoto.co​m (external link)

  
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Wilt
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Post edited over 7 years ago by Wilt. (3 edits in all)
     
Dec 14, 2015 09:40 |  #11

sssc wrote in post #17817137 (external link)

MalVeauX wrote in post #17817445 (external link)
Heya,

Speedlites can do the job just fine. Having a second light though really gives you options. If working outside you can use the natural light source (sun) as fill or rim/hair. Then use your speedlite as key, or as fill depending on what you want it to look like. A 2nd light gives you the 3rd light in the setup, or it can be ganged up with the key light to make for a more powerful light setup which is very useful.

Umbrellas are portable and great, but they also are hard to use outside by yourself because they are parachutes to wind. I have to stake down my stands when using modifiers outside, or the wind will take it over. Another option for modifier are umbrella softboxes.,

"Speedlites can do the job just fine. "...really depends upon what 'just fine' means to a photographer!

  • A 'real portraitist' knows that positioning of the light PRECISELY -- so that one can see where the shadows fall on the face immediately during light placement -- MATTERS, and the lack of constant-light illumination in a speedlight hampers that from happening, because the photographer has to shoot a shot and chimp before seeing that at all...that taxes that patience of the portrait sitter, especially kids! The portraitis't goal is to show the portrait sitter off to best advantage, and every portrait sitter has their own unique requirements of lighting placement to make that happen.
  • Someone who merely wants to "throw some (random) illumination on the other side of the portrait sitter's face", with zero regard to the placement of shadows on the face, can do just fine with a speedlight.


As for 'catch the wind' nature of umbrella vs. softbox, actually most aerodynamics information says a cube is WORSE than an half-sphere for drag, given the same max dimension, when the hollow hemisphere faces away from the wind! It is only when the hollow hemisphere FACES INTO the wind that its drag is worse. (The cube's drag is fairly constant with its profile not changing dramatically with orientation to the wind.) So I'd say any 'advantage' is purely circumstantial.

IMAGE: http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i63/wiltonw/Principles/drag_zpsqs5j4jlj.jpg

The values of the coefficient of drag are somewhat arguable, the above Wiki information says cube is 1.05, while an engineering document says 0.8 for the same shape. An engineering-oriented web site says

  • "Hollow semi-sphere facing stream (drag coefficient) = 0.38...
  • Cube (drag coefficient) = 0.8...
  • Hollow semi-sphere opposite stream (drag coefficient) = 1.42"

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