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Thread started 19 Dec 2015 (Saturday) 17:14
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How to: The 7DII, The Manual and dozens of settings...

 
itw
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Dec 19, 2015 17:14 |  #1

Much is said about learning and understanding how to use the sophisticated new AF system of the 7D II and how not using it properly is causing a lot of heartburn and the less than stellar results that many of us are experiencing.

I for one am sure I am not using my camera to it's fullest potential and am making a zillion mistakes along the way. I often wonder if I even have it set up correctly for my style shooting and go back and forth with changes after reading something here and becoming my own worst enemy, then pointing to the camera and skawkin' about "consistency" ! Some will say that's how to learn, yet I think it's frustrating and a waste of my time.

Undeniably, reading the manual is boring and almost 550 pages will test a guy's patience if you're not one of those kinds of independent book learners.

Not sure if it's feasable or ever been attempted, but I wonder if we could set up some kind of light lesson plan amongst ourselves and go through the manual in detail together. We can skip over the first hundred pages or so and start with settings..... what they mean, what they do and the merits of each as they pertain to how we shoot.

I feel comfortable here. This is a very generous crowd and from what I see there is little room for BS and egos. I like this a lot, so what say you.... any Teachers out there who would be willing to help get this off the ground ?


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TerryMiller
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Dec 19, 2015 18:38 |  #2

have you looked at the shorter guidebook from http://learn.usa.canon​.com …os7dmk2_afGuide​book.shtml (external link)

It may help get you going quicker. Everyone shoots different and I'm not sure you'll get a group to agree on what should go where.

Mine is set for back button focus to gain the ai servo/one shot instant switch advantage. The custom functions are set so that the joystick changes af point and the pull lever changes the size of the autofocus group. AF case seldom needs changing.


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itw
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Dec 19, 2015 19:00 |  #3

TerryMiller wrote in post #17825105 (external link)
have you looked at the shorter guidebook from http://learn.usa.canon​.com …os7dmk2_afGuide​book.shtml (external link)

It may help get you going quicker. Everyone shoots different and I'm not sure you'll get a group to agree on what should go where.

Mine is set for back button focus to gain the ai servo/one shot instant switch advantage. The custom functions are set so that the joystick changes af point and the pull lever changes the size of the autofocus group. AF case seldom needs changing.

I hear ya, I know it's a long shot. Your settings sound pretty much where I am now.... thanks for the lead on the quick-guide.

What do you have for the "AF Method" in the Red group and why ? That's one that tweeks me....


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TerryMiller
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Dec 19, 2015 21:45 |  #4

the standard face detect setting. I think that setting's for live view instead of the viewfinder focusing.


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itw
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Dec 20, 2015 08:21 as a reply to  @ TerryMiller's post |  #5

Thanks Terry, I appreciate you filling me in.


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Post edited over 7 years ago by digital paradise. (2 edits in all)
     
Dec 20, 2015 11:19 |  #6

TerryMiller wrote in post #17825105 (external link)
have you looked at the shorter guidebook from http://learn.usa.canon​.com …os7dmk2_afGuide​book.shtml (external link)

It may help get you going quicker. Everyone shoots different and I'm not sure you'll get a group to agree on what should go where.

Mine is set for back button focus to gain the ai servo/one shot instant switch advantage. The custom functions are set so that the joystick changes af point and the pull lever changes the size of the autofocus group. AF case seldom needs changing.

While a complicated camera it is actually very simple. You don't need to master everything in the first week. You should be able to take decent images pretty quickly right out of the box.

The Case numbers have nothing to AF. They are responsible for tracking characteristics after AF has been achieved. Here is a good video. Listen to what the presenter says in the first minute.

https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=7sgRZBo-WKI (external link)

There is not very much you can do when it comes to AF. The camera either focuses or it doesn't. There is no fine tuning control for AF. There are these options you can control.

One-shot AF release prior (for one shot). There are two choices - Focus and Release. Basically once AF has been achieved this option lets you control how many times the system will re-check and confirm AF. When on Release the system initially focuses and then lets you fire right away. Focus confirms AF before letting you fire. Most people leave that on Focus which the factory setting. I don't think I have yet to read anyone using it in Release mode.

For AI Servo there are 1st and 2nd image priority settings. 1st priority is similar to One Shot as it controls the initial focus of the subject. 2nd priority controls subsequent shots when burst shooting. Factory settings for both are Equal which should be more than adequate but some people like to set then one for both to Focus. The system is so fast the delay as the system is reconfirming AF is barely noticeable.

That is about it for AF controls and the case numbers.

As for what type of AF mode to use is a personal choice. Most use single point and add the two expansion modes if need be. The expansion modes add surrounding assist points to the centre point. If you are shooting moving targets they can be helpful or when shooting a still with very poor contrast. If the centre point can't find something to focus on an outer point will kick in.

There is also spot focus that uses a smaller AF point. I only use it for stills if I want and eye or something to be bang on. Single point actually works just as good. Technically spot is designed for when shooting through tight spaces. Something like a chain link fence but people use it for precision AF.

Read about this on page 2. “Precise” is not the same as “accurate!” There some chatter about this from time to time but you can decide for yourself.

http://www.learn.usa.c​anon.com …ticles/2014/spo​t_AF.shtml (external link)

Then there are the 3 zone AF modes. Try 65 point and aim it at a bird in the sky and you will be surprised at how welt tracks.

The the 3 zone AF modes work like this. The system will isolate the closest object. Great when there is nothing else around but takes a bit more skill in setting things up when in a busy environment. A challenge for even the most knowleaglbe users. I think most users just go back to single or expansion when is a busy environment to avoid the camera picking up other objects. I know I do.

In 65 point zone (only) you can select a initial AF to start AF or let the system pick the closest object. Purple AF modes - tab 4. Initial AFpt second from the bottom. Note if you select an initial AF point you can move it around with the joystick. Once that point locks on it drops out of being the initial AF point and becomes part of the 65 point array until you take your finger off the shutter or back button and the process repeats.

Same menu page at the bottom. iTR which is new to the 7D2.

Intelligent Tracking and Recognition which executes AF by recognizing faces and colors.

In AI Servo mode, the camera remembers the color at the position it is focused on first, then continues to track and focus the subject switching AF points to track that color. It is an assist to the normal AF tracking system. If it can’t find a colour it will track but slow things down as it is using resources trying to lock on a colour. Not great for tracking a person running wearing tan cloths in front of bushes in late fall.

In one-shot AF mode iTR basically looks for faces.

The manual states that when activated it will take longer to acquire focus. I’m not sure if a person could even tell as AF happens in milliseconds. It also states that if a face is too small in the frame it may have trouble finding it. AF

AF Area Selection Modes

1. First there the standard single point and spot focus point modes.

2. Followed by two expansion point modes to choose from.

- the first one enables 4 additional AF assist points

- the second one enables 8 sdditional AF assist points

3. The 3 zones.

- zone – enables 12 AF points.

- large zone – enables the entire centre or 2 outside clusters

- All 65 points

NOTE If iTR is enabled (on the AF4 menu screen) it will activate in "all 3" zones. So you may want to keep this in mind because if you go from expansion to zone it not only activates iTR (if enabled) but the AF tracking characteristics will change. I have disabled mine for now but will try it some day.

Someone mentioned the back focus button. When you are in there and press info for both the AF-ON or * buttons and "detail set"appears and you can customize more things. Very handy.

IMAGE: http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d74/Zenon1/7D2/Untitled_zpsic6kplxv.jpg~original

So that is about it. In conclusion for your learning curve I'd just stick to single or expansion AF modes until you are ready to explore more of what this camera has to offer.

I would suggest to shoot in Case 2. The only reason is that Tracking Sensitivity goes from 0 to -1. What this does is it prevents the camera from picking up another object if it crosses in front of your subject or what you are tracking goes behind something like a tree. You get a little more time before it starts to look for something else to lock onto. Most birders set it to -2 and so did I. My 7D had that and I set it to -2 and shot like that for 5 years.

Try those few things and just go out and shoot.

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Dec 20, 2015 11:30 |  #7

I just wanted to add something about iTR. I will try it in AI Servo one day when tracking a bird that has distinct reds, etc. I doubt I'll ever try it in one shot. I'll just go to single point and put the AF point on the subject. Might be good if you hand your cam over to someone who has never used a DSLR. Even without it activated the zone modes are pretty good at isolating your subjects. Just remember it is only a computer trying to figure out what you want to do. In most cases a group of people is what you are shooting so it is programmed for that but can make mistakes. I prefer full control when I shoot static objects.


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Dec 20, 2015 12:07 |  #8

^^ Well said, DP.


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Dec 20, 2015 18:15 |  #9

Lots of interesting info there DP.
I only got my 7D2 very recently and it's been raining ever since, so I am in no position to offer much here.
I have set up my 7D2 to closely match my 1DX and am waiting for some decent weather to try it out.
I did, very briefly, glance at the manual but started feeling suicidal very quickly so I put it back in the box, where it will stay! It is so much easier just to play with the camera and see what the various buttons do and much more fun when you get it wrong!


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Dec 20, 2015 18:25 |  #10

I downloaded and read the key stuff in the 1DX manual. I feel if that someone placed one in my hands I could shoot without skipping too much of a beat. The case number pages and some of the AF info pretty much cut and paste. Some AF modes are slightly different. 1st and 2nd priority are word for word.


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Dec 20, 2015 18:35 as a reply to  @ digital paradise's post |  #11

They are very similar but I notice that different AF "Case Settings" use different tracking priorities etc. Whether this mimics the performance of the 1DX settings or not I have yet to find out - should be fun though!


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Dec 20, 2015 18:57 |  #12

johnf3f wrote in post #17826329 (external link)
They are very similar but I notice that different AF "Case Settings" use different tracking priorities etc. Whether this mimics the performance of the 1DX settings or not I have yet to find out - should be fun though!

Yes. They seem a little more aggressive in the 1DX.


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Dec 21, 2015 05:10 |  #13

digital paradise wrote in post #17825838 (external link)
One-shot AF release prior (for one shot). There are two choices - Focus and Release. Basically once AF has been achieved this option lets you control how many times the system will re-check and confirm AF. When on Release the system initially focuses and then lets you fire right away. Focus confirms AF before letting you fire.

It not only confirms, it requires AF to be completed. In focus priority the trigger button will not work unless the AF system was able to find something to focus on. Unlike in Release mode, where it will try, then fire anyway.

For AI Servo there are 1st and 2nd image priority settings. 1st priority is similar to One Shot as it controls the initial focus of the subject. 2nd priority controls subsequent shots when burst shooting. Factory settings for both are Equal which should be more than adequate but some people like to set then one for both to Focus. The system is so fast the delay as the system is reconfirming AF is barely noticeable.

Under good conditions, yes. But try tracking something with low contrast in low light, and the difference is much larger.

I would suggest to shoot in Case 2. The only reason is that Tracking Sensitivity goes from 0 to -1. What this does is it prevents the camera from picking up another object if it crosses in front of your subject or what you are tracking goes behind something like a tree. You get a little more time before it starts to look for something else to lock onto. Most birders set it to -2 and so did I. My 7D had that and I set it to -2 and shot like that for 5 years.

But if you want to take photos of a motorcross driver appearing above a crest, then using negative settings here is not good at all. Then you have the subject suddenly appearing "out of the blue", and that's the conditions for when to use a positive setting for Tracking sensitivity.


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Dec 21, 2015 05:11 |  #14

digital paradise wrote in post #17826323 (external link)
I downloaded and read the key stuff in the 1DX manual. I feel if that someone placed one in my hands I could shoot without skipping too much of a beat. The case number pages and some of the AF info pretty much cut and paste. Some AF modes are slightly different. 1st and 2nd priority are word for word.

The 1DX just have a few details more to select from, that's about it.


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Post edited over 7 years ago by itw. (2 edits in all)
     
Dec 21, 2015 09:42 |  #15

digital paradise wrote in post #17825838 (external link)
While a complicated camera it is actually very simple. You don't need to master everything in the first week. You should be able to take decent images pretty quickly right out of the box. Try those few things and just go out and shoot.

digital paradise : Thanks for your efforts here. This info boosts my confidence some as it illustrates my own settings are not too far out there ! My understanding of "why" is low though as I'm just following along and using what my Hero's are already ! ;-)a

Two others if you will.... I don't understand "Metering" (I have it on Evaluative cause a lot of other people say so)

And, how about the "Picture Style" settings for birds ? Is it valuable to make up one yourself boosting Sharpness a bit, dropping Contrast a bit etc ?

Thnks too to the others who have contributed here so far. I really appreciate it and give me the feeling I ain't out here alone !


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