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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 28 Dec 2015 (Monday) 21:51
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Some Advice / Basic Hobby Lighting Setup

 
twopinetreesphoto
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Dec 28, 2015 21:51 |  #1

Hey all flashers (no pun intended),

I'm mostly a landscape shooter, trekking in the wilds of nature for mountains and waterfalls. This is a hobby of mine, but I'm looking to have some basic but quality gear for different purposes. So my small company needs me to shoot some headshots from time to time, and I'd like to up my game slightly. So I'm looking for some advice on any specifics. I currently have:

Canon 5d Mark III
16-35 f4L
24-105L
50 1.8
100mm 2.8 macro
70-200 f2.8L IS
430exII speedlight
pair of Yongnuo 603CII triggers

See my problem? :) I've been doing the headshots in the lobby of our building which generally gets pretty nice natural light (lots of skylights and glass everywhere), but for that and better family events I'd like to do a little better with perhaps a light kit or softbox plus my flash. I don't want cheap garbage, but I don't need top of the line. I've been looking at something like this:
http://www.amazon.com …15N&coliid=I2UZ​Y5EZRLYBZV (external link)
or
http://www.amazon.com …1&sr=1-1&keywords=softbox (external link)

I'd like something all inclusive where I don't need to buy every single little thing separately. Is one good softbox enough, or a set like these? Forgive my ignorance, but I'd appreciate any direction / advice. Thanks!

Doug




  
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MalVeauX
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Post edited over 7 years ago by MalVeauX. (3 edits in all)
     
Dec 28, 2015 23:24 |  #2

Heya,

You don't want cheap garbage, but you posted pretty much the cheapest garbage you could find.

A single light is fine. You can use ambient or a reflector as a 2nd source. Your current 430EXII is fine. You could just get a stand and a modifier (umbrella, or umbrella-style softbox) and be ready to go.

Personally, I would get a good boom stand and an umbrella-style softbox, a big one, like a 47~48". These fold up and can be stored. The umbrella-style softboxes are very light weight. Takes a lot off of your stand's heavy duty needs.

Here's a good starting boom stand: (Link) (external link)
Here's a good speedlite s-bracket with a bowen's mount, very universal, holds everything basically: (Link) (external link)
Here's a good starting umbrella-style softbox, 47": (Link) (external link)

Put your speedlite in there. Good to go.

Use a standard large reflector for your 2nd light source and/or fill. You can prop it up on anything.

Get another stand and another flash and another modifier if you feel you need a 2nd light and want a lot of control.

Get a big sheet of gel filter if you need to blend flash to ambient often. This is on Amazon (see Lee & Rusco 24x20" sheets of filters, like CTO, etc).

The only way you're getting an all inclusive setup that isn't garbage, is to get something that is good and it will not be cheap. Most of these "kits" are strobe kits.

You're doing head shots. You could do a standard/classic setup, 3 source light setup. Or you could do clam-shell with 2 lights. Or you can just do 1 light source and a reflector for fill. That simple.

Very best,


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gonzogolf
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Dec 29, 2015 00:22 |  #3

The stuff you linked to is utter garbage. Continuous lighting is a poor portrait solution for many reasons, lack of precise power control, relative lack of power in general, and less ability to control the ambient light balance. If you just do this infrequently start with a single speed light in a softbox or umbrella and a second speedlite for a separation light.




  
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bumpintheroad
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Dec 29, 2015 01:09 |  #4

What you choose depends on how you use them and what you expect to get out of them. I've used Novotron studio pack strobes, Paul C. Buff AlienBees, various models of Canon and Yongnuo speedlights, clamp lights from Home Depot with daylight LED bulbs, and inexpensive LED video lights.

Here's a self-portrait I took a few weeks ago. I used three LED video lights: Yongnou YN300's. One was on a boom above and slightly left of the subject, a second on the same lightstand at eye level for fill, and a third was camera right at eye level for additional fill. No modifiers were used. These lights were $50 each and the stands were $30 each and the boom arm was $70. The background was a gray muslin hung on large 3M Command wall hooks. As you can see from the EXIF, these were shot at ISO 100 and 1/125th, f/2.0

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The nice thing about continuous lighting is what you see is what you get. Also, you get some good pupil constriction to show off the color of the subject's iris, and there's plenty of light to focus. But I'm not a big fan of CFL; I've had bad luck with bulb reliability and they're not very bright. 300 element LED's run around $50-60 each and 900-element cost around $170. Get single color-temperature (they put out more light) and use CTO gels if you want to balance with tungsten lighting (I never needed to). I like the 300 element lights because I can pack four of them in my Pelican case with my camera, lenses and other gear needed for headshots, groups and interviews, yet they put out enough light to shoot ISO 100 without any problem.

If you want to diffuse the light you can hang some diffusion gel in front of them, or use an umbrella. I would probably point two 300-element LED's into a single umbrella. You can also make Styrofoam cooler soft boxes for the LED lights.

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FarmerTed1971
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Dec 29, 2015 01:26 |  #5

Light stand...
http://www.amazon.com …1-11&keywords=light+stan​d (external link)

Flash/Umbrella bracket...
http://www.amazon.com …keywords=umbrel​la+bracket (external link)

Umbrella...
http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …ap=y&m=Y&is=REG​&A=details (external link)

Hotshoe sync cord...
http://www.adorama.com​/PNHSFSKL15S.html (external link)

Done!

You don't need more than one speedlite unless you really WANT to spend more money.


Getting better at this - Fuji X-t5 & X-t3 - 16 1.4 - 35/50/90 f2 - 50-140 - flickr (external link) - www.scottaticephoto.co​m (external link)

  
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twopinetreesphoto
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Dec 29, 2015 14:44 |  #6

Thanks all for the advice so far, it's appreciated. I'm novice in the portrait realm so I am unsure of what's utter crap and what's not. Looking at links to suggested products, I don't see an obvious massive difference between what I posted and that, except for mostly that you get more stuff for same $, which I guess is a tipoff. I wasn't TRYING to post the cheapest garbage I could find, just going off of apparent value vs. reviews. I greatly appreciate pointers in the right direction.

I've heard softboxes are better than umbrellas?




  
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ksbal
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Post edited over 7 years ago by ksbal. (2 edits in all)
     
Dec 29, 2015 15:03 |  #7

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3 speedlight portrait.
Key is camera right
Fill is center-left
kicker is back left.
3x 540EZ set to manual settings
triggered with either yn-622's or rf-603 triggers (one for each flash and one on camera)

3 umbrellas
3 light stands.

24-105L is my standard lens (using the 100mm end), but used the 100L for this one.

the links you posted, yes, they are garbage. I started with one of those kits.

The umbrellas are fine. That is all I still have of that old kit, that and one light stand.

The light stands are not tall enough and are too flimsy.
The light itself is not adjustable (so you can have key/fill/kicker at different settings)
The light is too low to use a decent iso for good portrait (usually 400iso and under)

if you need to shoot small non moving trinkets for ebay, and have a tripod, then that constant light kit may work. But for people and multiple different lighting situations, speedlights are so much better it isn't funny. really.

I figure to have about $500-$600 in the lighting equipment, triggers, umbrellas, stands, speedlights, speedlight holders.

Godox/Flashpoint r2 system, plus some canon stuff.

  
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Alveric
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Dec 29, 2015 15:04 |  #8
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For reference, this is what a decent kit costs: http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …_d_lite_rx_4_2_​light.html (external link)

Based on that, think you that a $50 kit would be of good quality?

As for the brollies vs. softboxes, neither is better than the other, it all depends on what you're shooting, where you're shooting and what your creative vision is. Sometimes you need to control the light spill, and then softboxes are the best tool; sometimes you need a more even spread of light (you need the spill), and then you pull out an umbrella; some other times you need hard light, then you use neither boxes nor brollies, but a bowl reflector or a bare bulb.


'The success of the second-rate is deplorable in itself; but it is more deplorable in that it very often obscures the genuine masterpiece. If the crowd runs after the false, it must neglect the true.' —Arthur Machen
Why 'The Histogram' Sux (external link)

  
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Bassat
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Dec 29, 2015 15:13 |  #9
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I use a setup like the umbrella combo you have listed. I chose to go with flash lighting instead of constant lighting, however. I am sure that 600W setup means 3x 200W bulbs, which is not a ton of light.

I am a hobby shooter. I use the stands and umbrellas shown in the OP, with Canon EX flash units. Agreed, the included lights are crap. I have 4 stands, 2 shoot-through, and two white reflector umbrellas, and two small soft boxes. Total investment (not counting EX flash guns) about $175. I don't get pro results. I don't expect to. But I can light anything from a single portrait to large living room, well enough for me. Oh, I just added YN-622c/c-TX controllers. Wonderful addition.




  
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ksbal
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Dec 29, 2015 15:16 as a reply to  @ FarmerTed1971's post |  #10

For the flash bracket/ umbrella holder.. I HIGHLY recommend these:

s type bracket (external link)


Godox/Flashpoint r2 system, plus some canon stuff.

  
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MalVeauX
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Post edited over 7 years ago by MalVeauX.
     
Dec 29, 2015 15:19 |  #11

ncphotoguy wrote in post #17836452 (external link)
Thanks all for the advice so far, it's appreciated. I'm novice in the portrait realm so I am unsure of what's utter crap and what's not. Looking at links to suggested products, I don't see an obvious massive difference between what I posted and that, except for mostly that you get more stuff for same $, which I guess is a tipoff. I wasn't TRYING to post the cheapest garbage I could find, just going off of apparent value vs. reviews. I greatly appreciate pointers in the right direction.

I've heard softboxes are better than umbrellas?

Heya,

Neither is better than the other. It's a tool with different properties. I like both. I use both.

Softboxes control spill better and are more directional. They can also be gridded. They also weigh more. Cost more.
Umbrellas can be small, medium, large, big, super big, huge (7 feet!) and are light, portable, and much cheaper, spill more but offer a massive surface area.

Lately, I've been preferring umbrella-style softboxes. Basically, umbrellas that open up with a reflective surface on their inner side, that have velcro for attaching a white liner. Turning it into a softbox. I have a 31" and a 47" and I love how light weight, fast to setup, and simple they are, while making really great soft light. I have a 48" EZPro Octa that I use with my 600ws strobe, and it's really great. But it's heavy and bulky, and frankly, speedlites and my brolly-softboxes are faster to setup and so much much lighter on top of that, which I really like when I'm just setting up for a single quick shoot. When setting up for a big long dedicated session, that's different and I don't mind a longer setup process with heavier stuff. Also, umbrella-softboxes collapse down to umbrellas. So they literally store in a tube if you want. So small. So portable. And they're ultra-inexpensive. See the ones I linked again. $35 for a huge, huge 47" softbox that is of good quality, it's just an umbrella which is why. I also use 60" umbrellas for a huge, huge surface which is nice. But you have to have room to use that size modifier.

To avoid buying garbage, whatever you do, solid stands are the way to go. A boom stand is so useful. I would just get a decent quality relatively heavy duty stand first (maybe not super heavy duty, just heavy duty enough to handle a boom with a little weight at the end like a speedlite + modifier). See my links above. That stand for the money is very capable and is a one-time-end-game buy basically. If you want to step it up a notch, get the Cheetah boom stand from Cheetah ($120).

I use my umbrellas & umbrella softboxes outside with speedlites and strobes. They're well made. And cheap. So indoor use is a no brainer. You don't need super expensive modifiers to get good light.

Frankly, you could take some cardboard and some paper towels and make a really nice softlight softbox. Totally doable. Might look bad. But you get the point. But don't cheap out on the stand. That will be holding your flash and modifier, and when they hit the floor, you'll be cursing.

********

Here's an example of using a bare flash, flash behind an umbrella, and a boom stand. Very portable. I use this kind of stuff outside even. And here's examples of the kind of output, outside, in the sun. So inside, they output way enough light to handle anything.

$20 umbrella (Westscott 43")
$50 flashes (Yongnuo 560 III)
Cheetahboom stand ($120) (this holds my 6lb 600ws strobe even, let alone some speedlites)
Generic stand in the back ($15, Impact or neewer?)

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***************

I literally switched over to umbrella-style softboxes to replace a few umbrellas that I've destroyed over time. They were inexpensive, and really, I wanted them because they put the surface closer to the stand, so I can get even closer to the subject if I want and keeping everything closer to the stand seems more stable to me in the wind (not an issue inside). Mainly though, I like them because the umbrella portion goes backwards and is reflective, while the surface is forwards and literally inline with the light and stand. I just like how it takes up space differently. I like the flat surface better than the umbrellas. And I really like the reflected light onto a large surface better. You can get reflective umbrellas, I have those too, but so far, reflective surface umbrellas that take a liner and become a softbox are just really great to me, cheap, light weight, softbox style light, umbrella style storage and cost, love it).

I use these:

Neewer 47" Umbrella Softbox ($35) (external link)
Godox 31" Umbrella Softbox ($21) (external link)

Get two boom stands, or one boom stand, and one normal stand. For you, you can do fine with two normal stands probably. I still suggest a boom stand.

Very best,

My Flickr (external link) :: My Astrobin (external link)

  
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twopinetreesphoto
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Dec 29, 2015 15:22 as a reply to  @ Alveric's post |  #12

Alveric,

I NEVER said $50 would be good quality, just trying to show what I was looking at and suggestions to find better. A decent kit is $900? I highly doubt you have to go that high to get middle of the road, do fine for hobby / shoot portraits on the weekends / don't need pro level type of gear. Multiple posters suggested equipment totaling under $150 that is decent which is exactly what I wanted and was asking for. I appreciate the response!
Doug




  
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gonzogolf
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Dec 29, 2015 15:58 |  #13

ncphotoguy wrote in post #17836452 (external link)
Thanks all for the advice so far, it's appreciated. I'm novice in the portrait realm so I am unsure of what's utter crap and what's not. Looking at links to suggested products, I don't see an obvious massive difference between what I posted and that, except for mostly that you get more stuff for same $, which I guess is a tipoff. I wasn't TRYING to post the cheapest garbage I could find, just going off of apparent value vs. reviews. I greatly appreciate pointers in the right direction.

I've heard softboxes are better than umbrellas?

What you posted links to were simple cfl bulbs. All of them put together has less power than a single speedlite. I dont think you appreciate the power that can be u leasjed from 4 AA baterries compared to continuous light bulbs which require you to be tethered to an ac power supply. Start thinking flash those who will tell you that the advantage of seeing what you get are leading you down a path filled with limitations. As for soft boxes verses umbrellas, one is not better than another. Given your budget umberllas will give you bigger softer light cheaper. Sofboxes give a bit more control, but a softbox the size of an umbrella is costly and not easily powered with an inexpensive light. And size equals softness when it comes to lighting. The bigger (and closer) your light modifier the softer the light on the subject.




  
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Alveric
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Dec 29, 2015 16:01 as a reply to  @ twopinetreesphoto's post |  #14
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Just trying to provide you with a point of reference, mate, as well as to save you the frustration of working with less than ideal solutions, and/or gear that will break almost immediately. There are cheaper alternatives to the Elinchrom (which is actually so-so), of course, but they're pretty much all Chinese, something I would personally never buy and thus I will not recommend. However, plenty of other members here can point you to gear that will fit your needs and budget. Yes, for a hobbyist, a grand is probably overkill (although some people pump thousands of dollars into their hobbies, just take a look at the vintage cars nuts), but middle of the road would mostly mean flashguns, which, for someone who has essentially no experience with lighting, would not be the ideal solution: the benefit of having a modeling light can't be overemphasised. There might be some monolights or Cheetah Stand strobes that would be more amenable to your wallet. As I said, I'm sure you'll be provided with plenty of options here.

I concur with the opinion that you should stay away from continuous light: it might look attractive at first, what with its WYSIWYG and all, but you won't be able to shoot at smallish apertures with it, which is sometimes needed, nor will it let you freeze movement, and it tends to run hot which makes subjects uncomfortable.


'The success of the second-rate is deplorable in itself; but it is more deplorable in that it very often obscures the genuine masterpiece. If the crowd runs after the false, it must neglect the true.' —Arthur Machen
Why 'The Histogram' Sux (external link)

  
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Alveric
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Post edited over 7 years ago by Alveric.
     
Dec 29, 2015 16:04 |  #15
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gonzogolf wrote in post #17836555 (external link)
[..] And size equals softness when it comes to lighting. The bigger (and closer) your light modifier the softer the light on the subject.

True dat. And for that purpose, sometimes your best bet is to bounce the light from a bare bulb off a white wall.

Since you're in the US, the AlienBees from PCB might be a good option for you: http://www.paulcbuff.c​om/b800.php (external link)


'The success of the second-rate is deplorable in itself; but it is more deplorable in that it very often obscures the genuine masterpiece. If the crowd runs after the false, it must neglect the true.' —Arthur Machen
Why 'The Histogram' Sux (external link)

  
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