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Thread started 05 Jan 2016 (Tuesday) 01:03
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tokina 14-20mm f2 announced

 
DreDaze
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Jan 05, 2016 01:03 |  #1

saw some posts in the rumors section...but it's officially announced...i think the price was to be around $1K...interesting lens, but not something for me:
http://www.dpreview.co​m …d-nikon-crop-sensor-dslrs (external link)


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Bassat
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Jan 05, 2016 03:30 |  #2
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Interesting. But the wide end is a bit restricted for my taste. I just bought a Tokina 11-20 f/2.8 DX, primarily for aperture (10-18 is f/5.6 @ 15mm), but I need the focal range, too. It is nice to see someone building choice into the wide/fast for apsc world. At 725g and 4.2" long, this one is noticeably larger than the already large 11-20. Something's gotta give to get to f/2.

Guessing $659.




  
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Frodge
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Jan 05, 2016 06:49 |  #3

I have the old 12-24 tokina. The lens is super sharp. I use it for landscape all the time.

I don't like the idea that the new one has a plastic element in the middle. Plastic can get a glazed look as it ages.


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Equipment: Tokina 12-24mm, Canon 40mm 2.8, Tamron 17-50 2.8 XR Di, Canon 18-55mm, Canon 50mm 1.8, Tamron 70-300VC / T3I and 60D

  
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Bassat
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Jan 05, 2016 07:49 as a reply to  @ Frodge's post |  #4
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A plastic lens element? The beauty of the 11-16, 11-20, and now 14-20 is the f/2.8 aperture. The 14-24 doesn't do f/2.8. If I didn't need the f/2.8 (now f/2?), I would just use my 10-18.




  
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Frodge
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Jan 05, 2016 08:40 |  #5

Yeah, read the link at the top of the thread...


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Jan 05, 2016 12:37 |  #6

Frodge wrote in post #17845132 (external link)
I have the old 12-24 tokina. The lens is super sharp. I use it for landscape all the time.

I don't like the idea that the new one has a plastic element in the middle. Plastic can get a glazed look as it ages.

I wonder if the coating they talk about would help protect the lens during the aging process. Otherwise this would concern me too.

I'm interested to see what the next year will bring from Canon, Sigma and Tamron too. I'm still on the fence about going to FF or staying crop. If I was for sure staying on crop and this lens had a proper USM/HSM focus with full time manual override, I might jump on this 14-20, but I'm going to wait things out.


Canon 7D/350D, Σ17-50/2.8 OS, 18-55IS, 24-105/4 L IS, Σ30/1.4 EX, 50/1.8, C50/1.4, 55-250IS, 60/2.8, 70-200/4 L IS, 85/1.8, 100/2.8 IS L, 135/2 L 580EX II, 430EX II * 2, 270EX II.

  
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Frodge
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Jan 05, 2016 13:27 |  #7

I too have debated ff. Even just recently I was seriously considering a 6d. I've looked through a lot of my photos and really can't justify the cost of the lenses I would need. I'm still taking some really good photos with what I have. Not sure what to do with this whole Ff/crop thing.


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“It's kind of fun to do the impossible.” - Walt Disney.
Equipment: Tokina 12-24mm, Canon 40mm 2.8, Tamron 17-50 2.8 XR Di, Canon 18-55mm, Canon 50mm 1.8, Tamron 70-300VC / T3I and 60D

  
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Bassat
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Jan 05, 2016 13:48 |  #8
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Frodge wrote in post #17845653 (external link)
I too have debated ff. Even just recently I was seriously considering a 6d. I've looked through a lot of my photos and really can't justify the cost of the lenses I would need. I'm still taking some really good photos with what I have. Not sure what to do with this whole Ff/crop thing.

Two main reason to move to full frame:

1.) Better (less noise) at higher ISO. Learning to ETTR and process your photos will get just as good results, and costs nothing. Of course, doing the same with a full frame will get you even more. If you are not regularly shooting at 3200+, don't bother.

2.) Better results when printing large (less enlargement of the 'negative'). If you don't often print at 20"x30", don't bother. You'll never see it.

and a third lots of folks would throw in...

3.) DOF control. If you are shooting slow-aperture zooms, and are happy with the results, again, don't bother. To get the most out of this feature, you'll need some f/1.x primes, or at least some f/2.8 zooms. That gets expensive, quickly. IMHO, lots of folks way overdo this.

Despite what lots of shooters claim, there isn't a HUGE difference between apsc and full frame. So many things go into a final, finished product that native IQ ability of the format is almost irrelevant. I've made award winning photos with a P&S. I've taken lots of <DELETE> photos with my 5Dc and 6D. I moved to full frame (then later added back apsc) simply because I could afford it. Nothing about full frame has improved my results. Though it does allow me to do a few things I couldn't do well with apsc (see #3).




  
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ed ­ rader
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Jan 05, 2016 13:51 |  #9

for DOF control begin with FF camera. period.


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DoughnutPhoto
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Jan 05, 2016 14:04 |  #10

The 5dc seems to give me better, richer colors than the 60d. I've improved settings on the 60d since then, and it seems to have caught up.

DOF control is just as easy on the 60d with an f/1.8 lens ;) as it is on the 5dc with an f/2.8. But, ed rader doesnt have the final word - just as he says :).


Canon 5d, 60d, 17-40mm L, 30mm Art, 50mm, 85mm

  
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ed ­ rader
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Jan 05, 2016 14:12 as a reply to  @ DoughnutPhoto's post |  #11

I think you better research that one a bit more. you get a couple of stops advantage (narrower DOF) with a FF camera for the same framing than with 1.6 crop. hint: the same framing requires longer lens or moving closer.


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Bassat
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Jan 05, 2016 14:18 |  #12
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Ed, DOF control is about distance, not sensor size. Sensor to subject distance, and subject to background distance. Sure, FF makes it easier than apsc. MF will make it easier than FF, and so on. That said, DOF control is quite possible even on micro-sensor P&S cameras.

In the second frame, the back battery is 2" (yes, 2 inches, not 2 feet) behind the front battery. From a G15:

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Jan 05, 2016 14:20 as a reply to  @ DoughnutPhoto's post |  #13

What have you done to improve colors on your 60d?


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ed ­ rader
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Jan 05, 2016 14:40 as a reply to  @ Bassat's post |  #14

did you read what I said about using a longer lens or getting closer to achieve THE SAME FRAMING? anyhow. we've been over this a zillion times and I if you believe otherwise that's fine with me.


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5D4 x2, 16-35L F4 IS, 24-70L II, 70-200L F4 IS II, 100-400L II, 14L II, sigma 15 FE, sigma 28 f1.4 art, tc 1.4 III, 430exII, gitzo 3542L + markins Q20, gitzo GT 1545T + markins Q3T, gitzo GM4562

  
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ed ­ rader
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Jan 05, 2016 14:41 as a reply to  @ Frodge's post |  #15

nothing you couldn't do by shooting in RAW and learning how to process


http://instagram.com/e​draderphotography/ (external link)
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tokina 14-20mm f2 announced
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