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Thread started 11 Jan 2016 (Monday) 19:29
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bsiegler
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Jan 12, 2016 08:34 |  #16

NBEast wrote in post #17854665 (external link)
Can you number them?

In general, I think you could benefit from subtler, more diffused, and less direct lighting. Some of these are a little flash burned and lack natural looking depth-creating shadows, and the shadows that are there are harsh and come from an unflattering angle. Also; the subjects could use some more photogenic colors and less distracting background (possibly more blurred and greater separation).

In other words; snapshots, sorry. Try getting a reflector (with an assistant to hold it), watch the background, and avoid direct harsh lighting of any kind (flash, direct sunlight, etc).

#7 is my fav. It could use a little catch-light in the eyes but I like the softer shadows, it's got nice balance, and it looks very natural. #8 is also adorable and well captured.

Thank you very much for your suggestions. This is great feedback!




  
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bsiegler
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Jan 12, 2016 08:37 |  #17

PhotosGuy wrote in post #17854674 (external link)
You have some nice expressions. I prefer the softer light in #2 over the others. Even #7 could use a little fill flash or softer effect with a bounce card/reflector. And you should never use bottom light as in #6.
Before you start shooting, take a good, hard look at the background. #1 has candy canes growing out of their heads. #2 has white lines from the shelving growing out of their heads. #5 has a fence. #8 has a chair slat running through her head. Etc...

Thank you! These are great suggestion too. I didn't even think about the candy canes and etc. I definitely need to work on backgrounds!




  
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bsiegler
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Jan 12, 2016 08:44 |  #18

Bonecollector wrote in post #17855015 (external link)
I'm no professional either but I have a few things that may help.


First thing I noticed was the lack of sharpness. You really need to make sure those eyes are in sharp focus.
I assume canon has it also, but my sony has a setting where it colors what's in focus... very helpful. Also if you just use auto-focus make sure you aim at the eyes... lightly press the shutter... and then reframe you shot... and press the shutter down all the way so you know those eyes will be in focus.

If you don't have them (I know it's expensive, but eventually you should get them) get a sturdy tripod you're talking a couple $100 a good ball head another couple $100 and a wireless remote (I'm thinking of the Vello Free wave Plus.... Think that's what it's called) about $75. I would get the wireless remote first, because the shots your taking are in a controlled enough environment that just about any tripod and head will work for now. However good ones will make it far easier and as a result better.

Take the extra minute to set up the tripod and wireless remote. It may be a pain but I think you'll like the outcome better. Less shake = sharper images.


Next your DOF problems.

I would bring it up from f4 to f8.

This way more of the face is in focus. Now you won't have a blurry background.

You want a blurry background. So here's what you do.

Back up and zoom in.

It's that easy kinda. You'll maybe need to increase your iso, but if your on a tripod with natural light or using a flash on a tripod you may just need to adjust your shutter speed.

As long as your with a shutter speed of i'd say to be safe over 100. But depending on who you're shooting and how still they are you could get away with about 80.


So if you increase the f stop and back up and zoom in you'll still have a blurry background... probably a better looking portrait since your not in so close... and the subjects may look more comfortable without you in there face. :-)


Again I'm no pro and the reason I'm replying is because I'm learning also and appreciate it whenever people help me out on here or any other place. Just because where not pros doesn't mean we don't know anything the other doesn't know. I'm sure you could teach me a number of things on flash and hope you will once I get one. :-)

Hope this helped and keep shooting,
Seth

Seth,

Thank you for taking the time to provide some great feedback. I do struggle with sharpness and depth of field. I've not been getting the results I've been hoping for.
I have a very nice tripod but I've never considered using it when doing portraits. I was hoping I wouldn't need it during these types of photo shoots. I really appreciate the advice of stopping down my f-stop and backing up. I will be sure to give this a try.

Again, thank you very much for your input, I greatly appreciate it!




  
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bsiegler
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Jan 12, 2016 08:48 |  #19

gonzogolf wrote in post #17855028 (external link)
The first thing you want to look for in a background is a lack of clutter. Things that are distinct and that will draw your eye away from the subject. That doesn't mean they have to be totally blank though. If you have the ability to use shallow depth of field you can do some creative things with backgrounds that enhance a photo. If you leave enough distance behind the subject to soften backgrounds sufficiently things that might have been distracting become a pleasing pattern. This shot for instance the grafitti behind her could have been distracting if too distinct.

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://kevin-jones.smugmug.com …fany/i-GPzDJTX/A&lb=1&s=A  (external link)
Tiffany (external link) by Kevin Jones (external link) on Smugmug

You asked about the lines in the last shot. To me the structure of the chair back competes with the subject drawing your eye away and to the right. It's essentially hovering above her. You can still add elements to a scene that give context just avoid having them loom over your subject. Like the wagon in this shot

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://kevin-jones.smugmug.com …fany/i-LgHRfg8/A&lb=1&s=A  (external link)
Tiffany (external link) by Kevin Jones (external link) on Smugmug


Oh my gosh, this is fantastic advice! Thank you for explaining this. I can't wait to take some more photos! By the way, your photos are excellent! Thanks again!




  
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bsiegler
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Jan 12, 2016 08:50 |  #20

Left Handed Brisket wrote in post #17855041 (external link)
^ as usual, gonzo nailed it. Seeing what the background elements are doing, and how they are going to impact the final picture is something that makes a huge difference between an accomplished shooter and someone just taking nice pictures.

only thing i would add is to try to strike a better balance between ambient light and your flash. The indoor pics are somewhat overpowered by the flash.

Thank you for your input. I can see what you mean. What's the best way to accomplish this? Turn down the flash power, move the flash further away or do I need softboxes?
Again, I really appreciate your input!




  
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Jan 12, 2016 09:16 |  #21

bsiegler wrote in post #17855093 (external link)
Thank you for your input. I can see what you mean. What's the best way to accomplish this? Turn down the flash power, move the flash further away or do I need softboxes?
Again, I really appreciate your input!

if you are using ETTL, FEC (Flash Exposure Compensation) for on camera work will allow you to strike a better balance between ambient and flash. You can add to that by also pointing the flash in different directions other than just straight up.

this guy has a ton of info you should look over http://neilvn.com (external link) pay particular interest to the BFT.

If you have the means and desire, off camera flash with softboxes will open up a lot of possibilities. It isn't always practical or necessary though.


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Jan 12, 2016 09:26 |  #22

Neil's tangents blog is very useful as is strobist.com. also maconcampus in youtube has several videos on youtube about using flash for environmental portraits.




  
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Jan 12, 2016 10:00 |  #23

bsiegler wrote in post #17855080 (external link)
Thank you! These are great suggestion too. I didn't even think about the candy canes and etc. I definitely need to work on backgrounds!

If you aren't shooting wide open, the Depth of Field preview button (DOF) will let you see what the background will look like.


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agrandexpression
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Jan 12, 2016 10:18 |  #24

You're off to a good start! A few things I know that I needed to learn when I started out that might be helpful...which probably have already been highlighted

If you're positioning/posing people...don't be afraid to pull them away (far away) from your intended background. People naturally want to stand right in front of the selected backdrop, pull them away to get that blurred background look you're looking for.

Eyes should always been the focus point. #5, her hands are much sharper than her face/eyes. Using the smallest selectable focus points to increase your accuracy.

#1 & #3 are flash-heavy...bounce that flash, or bounce it better - it's a little strong in these images. Off the ceiling is fine in some circumstances, but many times bouncing it off a wall, or behind you will give a better spread and softness. Neil Van Niekerk gives excellent, practical use of on-camera bounce flash on his blog - http://neilvn.com/tang​ents/ (external link) Off camera flash with modifiers (umbrellas/softboxes) is the next progression from there.

Keep shooting!




  
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Jan 12, 2016 15:28 |  #25

I am here to solve your pricing dilemma, if you'll have any.

Ta-daaa!

Snappy more or less images, and a lot of them soft - if you chose to post them in here, it means you must have a lot of them soft. Gotta work on that mate. For now you can charge per hour as for a reportage, noooo more. Be on the cheap side.

Also - try to work flashes manually - it will take just an extra seconds while you're shooting, but don't worry - people will gladly wait and not going to think, that you don't know what you're doing. Nowadays I am telling straight on - "don't pose, nothing is happening, I'm just checking the lights" and fire test shots. It took a while for me to be comfortable with it, but that's a way to go :]


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bsiegler
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Jan 12, 2016 17:23 |  #26

Left Handed Brisket wrote in post #17855114 (external link)
if you are using ETTL, FEC (Flash Exposure Compensation) for on camera work will allow you to strike a better balance between ambient and flash. You can add to that by also pointing the flash in different directions other than just straight up.

this guy has a ton of info you should look over http://neilvn.com (external link) pay particular interest to the BFT.

If you have the means and desire, off camera flash with softboxes will open up a lot of possibilities. It isn't always practical or necessary though.

Thanks again! I will be taking a look at this info today!




  
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bsiegler
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Jan 12, 2016 17:23 |  #27

gonzogolf wrote in post #17855127 (external link)
Neil's tangents blog is very useful as is strobist.com. also maconcampus in youtube has several videos on youtube about using flash for environmental portraits.

Thanks for the links! I will check them out.




  
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bsiegler
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Jan 12, 2016 17:25 |  #28

agrandexpression wrote in post #17855181 (external link)
You're off to a good start! A few things I know that I needed to learn when I started out that might be helpful...which probably have already been highlighted

If you're positioning/posing people...don't be afraid to pull them away (far away) from your intended background. People naturally want to stand right in front of the selected backdrop, pull them away to get that blurred background look you're looking for.

Eyes should always been the focus point. #5, her hands are much sharper than her face/eyes. Using the smallest selectable focus points to increase your accuracy.

#1 & #3 are flash-heavy...bounce that flash, or bounce it better - it's a little strong in these images. Off the ceiling is fine in some circumstances, but many times bouncing it off a wall, or behind you will give a better spread and softness. Neil Van Niekerk gives excellent, practical use of on-camera bounce flash on his blog - http://neilvn.com/tang​ents/ (external link) Off camera flash with modifiers (umbrellas/softboxes) is the next progression from there.

Keep shooting!

Awesome input! Thank you for the suggestions. I agree I focus issues. I need to practice. I always use the center focal point and aim at the eyes. It seems that something is throwing it off. Maybe my DOF?




  
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bsiegler
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Jan 12, 2016 17:31 |  #29

osh_sekta wrote in post #17855612 (external link)
I am here to solve your pricing dilemma, if you'll have any.

Ta-daaa!

Snappy more or less images, and a lot of them soft - if you chose to post them in here, it means you must have a lot of them soft. Gotta work on that mate. For now you can charge per hour as for a reportage, noooo more. Be on the cheap side.

Also - try to work flashes manually - it will take just an extra seconds while you're shooting, but don't worry - people will gladly wait and not going to think, that you don't know what you're doing. Nowadays I am telling straight on - "don't pose, nothing is happening, I'm just checking the lights" and fire test shots. It took a while for me to be comfortable with it, but that's a way to go :]

Thank you Olafs. Excellent suggestions. I really appreciate your taking the time to have a look!




  
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bsiegler
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Jan 12, 2016 17:33 |  #30

Just wanted to thank everyone again for their taking the time to give me some excellent feedback and suggestions! I truly appreciate it!
I've got lots of practicing and research to do! Thanks again!




  
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