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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 24 Jan 2016 (Sunday) 15:36
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Any Help WIth A New Flash?

 
gonzogolf
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Jan 26, 2016 12:10 |  #31

Do you want a status symbol or a flash? Paying more isn't any guarantee of a hedge against obsolescence or any particular guarantee against failure. There are reasons to buy one brand, or one model over another but high end isn't one of them.




  
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Bonecollector
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Jan 26, 2016 12:18 as a reply to  @ post 17873667 |  #32

High end is (buying one flash that has the ability to do what a pro can do with his/her flash, so when I get better I won't need to upgrade)

ETTL I know nada TTL is through the lense which uses the camera to tell the flash what it need to know to make a correct exposure, but it isn't manual.

Everything from people, pets, wildlife building etc. Pretty much anything you can with one good flash.

I know you want your flash off camera, bounce flash makes nicer light etc. I know some, but I'm new to flash and don't know flash.
Seth


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msowsun
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Jan 26, 2016 12:19 |  #33

Bonecollector wrote in post #17873642 (external link)
Is the flash you mentioned high end?


I want a high end flash so I don't have to purchase another.


Thank you!
Seth


For a high end, full featured, do everything flash, I would recommend the Canon 600EX-RT . It is something you will not have to replace or buy again.

You can also add the Canon ST-E3-RT off camera transmitter for full off camera capability. I wouldn't bother with Pocket wizards or any other transmitter/receiver if you have the Canon 600EX-RT.


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Bonecollector
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Jan 26, 2016 12:21 as a reply to  @ gonzogolf's post |  #34

I don't care about what it looks like or the brand or anything.

I don't want to do what I've been doing for years.

Buying the cheaper item, and then having to upgrade to the more expensive item. You lose money in the long run that way. I'd rather spend the money and get the good flash than have to buy 2.

Seth


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gonzogolf
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Jan 26, 2016 12:34 |  #35

Bonecollector wrote in post #17873697 (external link)
I don't care about what it looks like or the brand or anything.

I don't want to do what I've been doing for years.

Buying the cheaper item, and then having to upgrade to the more expensive item. You lose money in the long run that way. I'd rather spend the money and get the good flash than have to buy 2.

Seth

Then lose terms like high end, it makes you sound ridiculous. Ask specific questions about quality and functionality. What an item costs isnt necessarily and indicator of those things.




  
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Left ­ Handed ­ Brisket
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Jan 26, 2016 12:53 |  #36

Bonecollector wrote in post #17873697 (external link)
Buying the cheaper item, and then having to upgrade to the more expensive item. You lose money in the long run that way. I'd rather spend the money and get the good flash than have to buy 2.

gotcha.

I have a variety of flashes from 30 odd years of flash photography. On a rare occasion I will put my Minolta 20 (external link) into use and hope that it doesn't explode into a ball of flames. My very old Sunpak is still very useable, my 15 year old Nikon SB-28 is damn near as competent as my Canon 580EXII that was just discontinued a year or so ago.

Point is that in large part, light is light.

I don't take the time to know what each of the Youngnou brand is capable of doing but BH Photo has recently picked up (external link) most, if not all of their line. I think the YN-568 II is essentially the same as a Canon 580 EXII. The YN cost a hundred bucks new and the Canon cost $220ish used. I got a great deal on th e580 about 3-4 years ago for 200 used so i jumped on it. This was before a reputable US based dealer had picked up the YN brand. Either of those flashes will do what you are looking to do.


PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Not in gear database: Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20

  
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Left ­ Handed ­ Brisket
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Post edited over 7 years ago by Left Handed Brisket. (2 edits in all)
     
Jan 26, 2016 12:56 |  #37

oh yeah, this is very important, delete all that distance information garbage from your mind before going forward. That is a relic from the days before ETTL flash.

I guess some folks might still try to make use of it, but IMO it would probably be along the lines of having something to brag about.

buy a good ETTL flash, experiment with FEC, and come back here for answers to why something isn't working the way you expect.


PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Not in gear database: Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20

  
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Bonecollector
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Jan 26, 2016 13:09 |  #38

Incase this helps...


I'm planning to use this flash for everything...

On canon mostly nature/anmals.. Pets, wildlife, macro, outdoor things (trees, rocks, sunsets, things you'd use a flash for outdoors.)

On Sony also outdoors as mentioned above, additionall for indoors, Interiors (Like photos of rooms for decorators) portraits, sports (canon for sports also).

I'm learning so I will practice using flash for everything and figure out what I'm good at and what I like before I buy a bunch of flashes and strobes etc.

Thank you everybody for the help!
Seth


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msowsun
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Post edited over 7 years ago by msowsun. (3 edits in all)
     
Jan 26, 2016 13:18 |  #39

If you want to buy one flash to use on both the Sony AND the Canon then it is going to have to be a non-ETTL, Manual mode only flash.

I would recommend a $70 Yongnuo YN560 IV that comes with a built-in receiver that allows you to remotely control the power levels. http://www.amazon.com …sr=8-1&keywords=yn-560+iv (external link)
Then you just need to add a $40 YONGNUO YN560-TX tranmitter that will work on both Sony and Canon cameras. http://www.amazon.com …fRID=18AJ0JBET0​2GJE00Z8PK (external link)

This is very cheap way to get into off camera flash and also a very good system that many people love. It is also the only way you can use the flash on both Sony and Canon.


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Jan 26, 2016 13:19 |  #40

Bonecollector wrote in post #17873753 (external link)
On Sony

pretty sure you can forget about that too. Your best bet would be to use a set of dumb triggers between the sony and the Canon flash for off camera flash.


PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Not in gear database: Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20

  
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Wilt
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Post edited over 7 years ago by Wilt. (3 edits in all)
     
Jan 26, 2016 13:28 |  #41

GTFM...Get The F* Manual, if you do not have it...available online for free, which is how I got the information for your flash! RTFM, page 55-57, too. :twisted:
Assuming you have done both and simply do not comprehend, let me simplify...

The Sony HVL-F60M does indeed have Manual mode.

" Manual flash provides a fixed flash intensity irrespective of the brightness of the subject and the camera setting", which means you simply turn it on, and depend upon 'Guide Number arithmetic' to calculate exposure, and you may use partial power Manual mode (selected via rotary cpontrol wheel) to change to lower power and Guide Number


  • Guide Number = Distance * f/stop
  • but the Guide Number changes if you change the Angle of Coverage of the flash
  • and the Guide Number normally quoted assumes ISO 100, so you have to alter the GN if using a different ISO
    for each additional +1EV of ISO sensitivity, multiply GN*1.414 to obtain applicable Guide Number



Your HVL-600M will display the 'correct distance' for the selected aperture on the camera, and avoiding the necessity of Guide Number arithmetic to achieve 'proper flash exposure' -- assuming it is mounted on a Sony; it will NOT do this if mounted on a Canon because the electrical contacts and protocols are not the same between brands! A Canon will only do a 'stupid trigger' of the flash when the shutter is fired, assuming you have compatible hotshoe contact for Trigger and Ground...which is bad to assume because the Sony contacts are so different from everyone else's.

Used off camera, it is getting NO INFORMATION about the selected aperture, so it cannot compute 'proper distance' based upon the power setting or ISO or Coverage Angle.

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Jan 26, 2016 13:42 |  #42

Wilt: I think the OP (Seth) has returned the Sony flash and ordered a canon 600EX-RT. He has also ordered some Pocket Wizard Plus II I transceivers and he wants to use the 600EX-RT on both Sony and Canon cameras. .

Seth: Is that correct?


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Jan 26, 2016 13:44 |  #43

Wilt wrote in post #17873774 (external link)
GTFM...Get The F* Manual, if you do not have it...available online for free, which is how I got the information for your flash! RTFM,

he STFB (sent the f@#er back).

signed,
another guy who often doesn't RTFT before responding.


PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Not in gear database: Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20

  
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Bonecollector
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Jan 26, 2016 13:45 as a reply to  @ msowsun's post |  #44

Correct... I am now trying to cancel the Canon flash and get the Falsh and tranciever you have just above.

I will either keep the pocketwizards for later or try selling them.
Seth


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Jan 26, 2016 13:47 |  #45

msowsun wrote in post #17873763 (external link)
Then you just need to add a $40 YONGNUO YN560-TX tranmitter that will work on both Sony and Canon cameras.

interesting. Does it not provide any sort of automatic/ETTL for either brand?


PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Not in gear database: Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20

  
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Any Help WIth A New Flash?
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