5D3 and 135mm 2.0 on a monopod

Tried some test shots in a challenging church during Confirmation rehearsal. For proper exposure I needed 1/60 at 2.0, ISO 4000. BAAD images. Forgot my monopod, but will bring it to the ceremony tonight.

What would you consider minimum shutter speed with this lens, monopod assisted? Will probably be sticking to my 85 1.8 and Tammy 24-70 2.8 VC but was hoping to use the 135 some.

Thanks

The lowest I like to push that lens is around 1/80, sometimes lower for still details. I often shoot in similar lighting based on settings you provided. With a monopod, I figure you need at least 1/100 for stable shots.

When you say BAAD - do you mean just blurred?

The answer re shutter speed is personal to you. You may need 1/focal length or something much faster. I personally would not use something as slow as 1/60 with that combination of heavy camera, long lens, heavy lens, no IS. I use the 5D3 and 135 f/2 all the time. It's money. You could have pushed to at least ISO 6400 with no issues.

My experience is the same as Eastport's. I'd not have thought twice to shoot iso6400 to get 1/100th. At that shutter speed, I would expect about one third of my shots to be pretty sharp (printable at 8x10 without any noticeable blur).

At 1/60th I worry about human movement, unless the subject is posing. I try to stay at 1/100th to stop motion anyway.

on a monopod I can shoot 1/30th - but if the thing you are shooting is moving then you are going to need SS to freeze the action

thanks a lot guys

I think some people misinterpreted the question. 1/focal length is the rule of thumb for handheld shots. On a monopod, your technique and ability to hold still will be the deciding factor. The monopod by itself doesn't allow you to go to 1/focal length plus. Although the monopod will prevent movement of the camera on the vertical axis, you will need to look for horizontal and rotational stability, too. Depending on the shutterspeed, you may be able to do this yourself. Typically, people can improve their shutter speed by one or two stops.

Although people do stand straight up - feet together with a monopod exactly perpendicular to the ground - it's not an optimal position if you think about it. Generally, I try to "complete the tripod" - one leg is the monopod, one leg is me, and the other leg is something else like a chair or wall that I can lean against... my hands are the mount. If there is nothing to lean on, then I spread my legs out at shoulder-width for a more stable base.

Nathan wrote in post #17909506
I think some people misinterpreted the question. 1/focal length is the rule of thumb for handheld shots. On a monopod, your technique and ability to hold still will be the deciding factor. The monopod by itself doesn't allow you to go to 1/plus focal length. Although the monopod will prevent movement of the camera on the vertical axis, you will need to look for horizontal and rotational stability, too. Depending on the shutterspeed, you may be able to do this yourself. Typically, people can improve their shutter speed by one or two stops.

Although people do stand straight up - feet together with a monopod exactly perpendicular to the ground - it's not an optimal position if you think about it. Generally, I try to "complete the tripod" - one leg is the monopod, one leg is me, and the other leg is something else like a chair or wall that I can lean against... my hands are the mount. If there is nothing to lean on, then I spread my legs out at shoulder-width for a more stable base.

I completely agree with this. If you can't brace the monopod in anyway to improve the stability the improvement isn't that much. If you can, then 2 stops is a good guess.

Oh... and also brace your elbows against your body or something else while holding the camera, too. Monopod or handheld, if your elbows are freely hanging in the air, the camera isn't stable. Even worse if the camera is on a monopod and you're shooting with your arms extended in front of you because you're looking at the LCD screen instead of looking through the viewfinder.

I use the 135L all the time. I would never let the shutter speed drop below 1/125. i cant risk a blurry image at a wedding when its THE shot that must be had.

135L needs shutter speed

I typically use it in TV mode, set shutter at 1/160 and control DOF with ISO and ND filters. It never misses focus and I dont get blurry images, especially with flash use.

I think the 135L is second only to the 200L f/2.0 prime for canons bokeh look. By far my favorite portrait lens. The only drawback I see to this lens is that you need a lot of room to use it. Outside and inside a church....primary portrait lens for me.

shutter speed shutter speed shutter speed for this lens

umphotography wrote in post #17910764
I use the 135L all the time. I would never let the shutter speed drop below 1/125.

shutter speed shutter speed shutter speed for this lens

yup

at 1/60th on a monopod you can get it to work pretty consistently but if the pressure is on it is too risky - much better to use a minimum of 1/125 - but as you say higher and higher is better

i did a handhold test, 10 pictures at ever increasing shutter speeds, and if you actually want to tack sharp nail the 135L on the 5DSR, you need 1/640 - you don't have to be remotely that high if you aren't pixel peeping but that is what is required to get 90% hit rate

i truly believe there is a market for a 135 F2 IS lens (I would buy it immediately) - should be interesting to see how the Tamron 85 F1.8 IS does because I think it is going to sell because of the IS - and the new Sony 85 1.4 is going to be a monster sales lens for Sony because it is an amazing lens and because of IBIS

umphotography wrote in post #17910764
I typically use it in TV mode, set shutter at 1/160 and control DOF with ISO and ND filters. It never misses focus and I dont get blurry images, especially with flash use.

Isn't that slightly the tail wagging the dog (controlling DOF with ISO)? Why not use auto-ISO (set with an acceptable range) and shoot in manual - that way you control shutter and aperture, and let ISO "do its thing".

No EC on a 5D3 in this mode though, granted (and understood on the need for ND filters in certain situations).

sploo wrote in post #17910802
Isn't that slightly the tail wagging the dog (controlling DOF with ISO)? Why not use auto-ISO (set with an acceptable range) and shoot in manual - that way you control shutter and aperture, and let ISO "do its thing".

No EC on a 5D3 in this mode though, granted (and understood on the need for ND filters in certain situations).

I have actually got real good doing it this way. I want to control DOF w/o worrying about shutter speed. I know that at 1/160 with a 135L the image will be sharp. I can set my camera at lowest ISO point and know exactly what my ambient is, and get exact DOF i want, which is typically F/2.2-2.5 with an ND or ISO adjustment inside. If light is consistent I could easily switch over to M mode. But I shoot a lot outside so this method works really well. Pretty easy to count the steps and slap on NDs for exact desired results.

umphotography wrote in post #17911152
I have actually got real good doing it this way. I want to control DOF w/o worrying about shutter speed. I know that at 1/160 with a 135L the image will be sharp. I can set my camera at lowest ISO point and know exactly what my ambient is, and get exact DOF i want, which is typically F/2.2-2.5 with an ND or ISO adjustment inside. If light is consistent I could easily switch over to M mode. But I shoot a lot outside so this method works really well. Pretty easy to count the steps and slap on NDs for exact desired results.

Note that the auto ISO setting will handle changes in light; thus you get complete control over DOF and shutter speed, whilst not having to worry about the exposure (within reasonable limits, of course).

The downside is no EC in M mode with auto ISO (unless you're shooting one of the few newer bodies, or the 1Dx).

sploo wrote in post #17911164
Note that the auto ISO setting will handle changes in light; thus you get complete control over DOF and shutter speed, whilst not having to worry about the exposure (within reasonable limits, of course).

The downside is no EC in M mode with auto ISO (unless you're shooting one of the few newer bodies, or the 1Dx).

Yes I know. Most of the time im at 50 iso and killing DOF with 3 stop ND filters because I do this outside a lot. Its just quicker for me. Its kind of grown into its own routine. I always shoot these with OCF so it makes it really simple. 1/160 tells me whats behind the subject and I can go from that point in 2 shots and be ready to go. Its just part of how I roll now for these kinds of shots

example
took 2-3 test shots and I was ready to go. 1/160 is my ambient light and aperture at 50 ISO. 2nd shot to meter light hitting subject. 3rd shot to verify setting is good to go. Slap on an ND and Kill DOF to F/2.2. Fire away. Works every time