Micro adjustment Canon 7DMII connected to a tablet

I am trying to change this for my Tamron 150-600 and I wonder if it could be done via an android tablet?
This is because although the LCD screen is good, comparing photos on a larger screen would be better.
Copying them and taking them a PC seems harder and my laptop is a bit fragile so moving more than necessary is not a good idea.

Shoot your shots and then take your camera to your laptop....
That way you won't have to move your laptop

don1163 wrote in post #17934033
Shoot your shots and then take your camera to your laptop....
That way you won't have to move your laptop

But isn't that a lot longer process, in that you take 10 photos, write down details, copy to them to the laptop and the compare them?

You could try the Dot Tune method - no need for a laptop. I have heard that it works well but I have yet to try it.

https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=7zE50jCUPhM

davholla wrote in post #17934041
But isn't that a lot longer process, in that you take 10 photos, write down details, copy to them to the laptop and the compare them?

I can do both ends of my 100-400 is about 15-20min. That's not too long. You don't even have to write anything down.

1. Take first 8 shots (-20, -15, -10, -5, 0, 5, 10, 15, 20)
2. Import/review
3. Find the two points on the range where your results fall off
4. Shoot 5 more shots, at each setting in that bracket
5. Download/review; pick the setting that looks best
NOTE: You may find that there isn't enough, noticeable difference between 2 settings; just pick one.
6. Take 3-4 shots with that setting just to confirm that it's what you want.

Dot-tune works great and is fast. With dot-tune, you don't take any pictures, you just check to see when the green focus confirmation light comes on.

After doing it this way, I usually shoot a few anyway to confirm that things are good.

Just give it a try. It won't harm anything if you do it wrong. If for some reason you end up with a wrong number, it is easy to change. In that sense it is like an aperture setting. Is it not right? Change it till it's right.

But I don't have experience with MFA of Tamron lenses.

Another vote for Dot Tune. It is much less work than the traditional method. And it works fine on Tamron, or any other brand of lenses.

I don't even take the images to a computer. I just zoom in 100% to look at my point of focus to check where focus lies. This is why having a small high contrast/high color object in the grass or carpet works for tuning focus. For indoors, I use 2-3 lego parts put together on a neutral rug. I adjust focus until the carpet around the legos are in focus. I can make a final adjustment in about 3-5 shots.

I haven't yet done this with my 150-600 though, I am trying to decide if I want to adjust 16 points on the lens using the dock, or just 2 using the camera.

TeamSpeed wrote in post #17934804
I don't even take the images to a computer. I just zoom in 100% to look at my point of focus to check where focus lies. This is why having a small high contrast/high color object in the grass or carpet works for tuning focus. For indoors, I use 2-3 lego parts put together on a neutral rug. I adjust focus until the carpet around the legos are in focus. I can make a final adjustment in about 3-5 shots.

I haven't yet done this with my 150-600 though, I am trying to decide if I want to adjust 16 points on the lens using the dock, or just 2 using the camera.

Well, I guess you can't use the Lego-on-the-carpet method with the 150-600 if you follow the 50 x focal length rule. Unless your basement is a football field.

Canon is quite clear in its recommendations that MFA shots should be taken at 50 x focal length, but how important is that? For my WA lenses, I can do that on a card table, but for 600 mm we are talking 100 feet.

Also, when you take shots of Lego pieces on the carpet, are you down on the floor, or shooting from a point above the floor?

I guess the gist of my questions is, how precise does one have to be when doing MFA? I have always leveled the camera, placed the target on a vertical surface, been at least 50 x FL from the target, etc. Is all this work necessary?

pknight wrote in post #17934818
Well, I guess you can't use the Lego-on-the-carpet method with the 150-600 if you follow the 50 x focal length rule. Unless your basement is a football field.

Canon is quite clear in its recommendations that MFA shots should be taken at 50 x focal length, but how important is that? For my WA lenses, I can do that on a card table, but for 600 mm we are talking 100 feet.

Also, when you take shots of Lego pieces on the carpet, are you down on the floor, or shooting from a point above the floor?

I guess the gist of my questions is, how precise does one have to be when doing MFA? I have always leveled the camera, placed the target on a vertical surface, been at least 50 x FL from the target, etc. Is all this work necessary?

Don't sweat it. It is just an adjustment. And it can be changed at any time.

I try to use a distance that is similar to what I usually shoot. Works for me.

If you MFA at 15X or 20X the focal length, nothing is going to break.

Archibald wrote in post #17934878
Don't sweat it. It is just an adjustment. And it can be changed at any time.

I try to use a distance that is similar to what I usually shoot. Works for me.

If you MFA at 15X or 20X the focal length, nothing is going to break.

I wasn't worried about breaking anything.

I was just wondering if I am getting noticeably better results by following these guidelines.

In many cases, it is not practical to MFA at the distances that I shoot. My 150-600 is used primarily for birds, and they are often hundreds of feet away. The goal, for me, is to make the optimal adjustment, and then forget about it. If the recommended procedures result in generally better MFA results, then they are worth it.

pknight wrote in post #17934900
I wasn't worried about breaking anything.

I was just wondering if I am getting noticeably better results by following these guidelines.

In many cases, it is not practical to MFA at the distances that I shoot. My 150-600 is used primarily for birds, and they are often hundreds of feet away. The goal, for me, is to make the optimal adjustment, and then forget about it. If the recommended procedures result in generally better MFA results, then they are worth it.

I generally follow the guideline, simply because I have the space out front; but, in the past I've done it at about 25ft (the longest distance I have inside the house; when it's raining for days at a time) and still found good results. This is for my 100-400.

I can use my driveway too, but my basement is sufficiently long for how I do this. I don't follow Canon's suggestions, they don't match how I use my lenses. I make sure I can surround my center AF point with a small object. This way works for any lens I adjust, because I am using a visual FOV as my guide vs some predetermined distance.

The problem with Canon's suggestion is that the longer the distance, the larger your DOF, and the more difficult it is to gauge the adjustments, especially with these slower super zooms. With a crop body, if you try to tune a 600mm using a football field, your DOF is something like 20' (30' for FF). You cannot adjust that, and quite honestly, the large DOF will overcome alot of AF issues anyways. I do my MFA with much thinner DOFs, then larger DOFs just take care of themselves.

Any homogeneous surface with some sort of consistent texture/color works, as long as you have a bright contrasty small object that can be easily seen on that surface. Since it will be small, you don't have to worry about being at an angle to the object, that angle is small and won't create any issues once you are done dialing in MFA. I have been doing this for at least 7 years now, with great results.

I polish off my adjustments with some tests down the street at people's light posts, flower pots, etc.

TeamSpeed wrote in post #17934914
... I make sure I can surround my center AF point with a small object. This way works for any lens I adjust, because I am using a visual FOV as my guide vs some predetermined distance.

...

I think this is the more important part of the process vs actual distance used.

To my surprise I have found FoCal Pro to be very accurate and consistent. Dot Tune works very well but at the end of the day I prefer something that tells me how much to adjust. I always second guess myself so like automated systems.

50X is often not practical when you start getting into 300mm and longer. I'm not suggesting you get it but you can use some of the resources for free.

This page explains where a lens starts to stabilize.

http://s449182328.webs​itehome.co.uk …20Test%20Distan​ce_1.1.pdf

This page also gives you suggested minimum distances to determine MFA. Just use the normal target size to get the distance.

http://www.reikan.co.u​k …e-target-size-calculator/