Godox X1 system integration thread

I made this image with another approach. Not sure if it's going to be of any help, but just in case...

That's great! Now if I ever need to change channels I'll get to feel like a spy.

Thanks for this.

Owen.

endos wrote in post #18015275
I made this image with another approach. Not sure if it's going to be of any help, but just in case...

This is an example of how it works:

I am not sure of your system but the FEC works perfectly on my A6000, A7II and A7rII with the X1Ts and the Canon 360II.
It works on the X1t as well as I have the "right button" on the body set as flash comp and it also works perfectly with noticeable differences in exposure....

I really like the button for few, quick and easy and you do not have to remove your eye to make an adjustment...


The older 180 and 360 work equally well with FEC also..

nixland wrote in post #18013904
I just tried the X1-S on my Sony A7

With V860 for Canon & X1 receiver :
-M mode works ok
-TTL mode works but adding and substracting flash exp compensation has no effects
-HSS works ok and automatically above sync speed up to 1/8000, no banding

With V860 for Canon and XTR16s :
-M mode works ok
-HSS works ok like above (you have to turn on HSS mode on the flash)

With AD360 II for Canon :
-M mode works ok
-TTL mode works but adding and substracting flash exp compensation has no effects
-HSS works ok and automatically above sync speed up to 1/8000, no banding

With TT685 for Sony
-M mode and TTL mode works ok including flash exposure compensation

Since I dont need TTL mode, I end up buying X1s for my A7, XTR16 for my old AD360 and XTR16s for my V860 Canon
My AD360 II needs no additional receiver.

Did you update the firmware in your 360II?

endos wrote in post #18015275
I made this image with another approach. Not sure if it's going to be of any help, but just in case...

This is an example of how it works:

This is very clever, and I hate to spoil the fun, though the XT32 transmitter now also has a visual indication of the dip switch settings for each channel, so it makes it very easy to set the dip switches without any other guides needed.

Agreed. Makes me wish I had kept up with math.

What I particularly like is that I can actually remember the algorithm. Each switch is worth double the value of the last. Then add one.

I know the XT32 has the little diagram, but I'm likely to be using the X1T mainly, and I like to try to anticipate failure modes / worst-case scenarios so that if they occur on a job I can deal with them fast.

So, thanks again, Endos.

Owen.

elv wrote in post #18015860

endos wrote in post #18015275
I made this image with another approach. Not sure if it's going to be of any help, but just in case...

This is an example of how it works:

This is very clever, and I hate to spoil the fun, though the XT32 transmitter now also has a visual indication of the dip switch settings for each channel, so it makes it very easy to set the dip switches without any other guides needed.

A bump for my question about what I think is a bug in Godox 's v.14 of X1TC firmware:

If anyone has an X1TC bought from Adorama recently, it probably has v.14.

If you have one of these, and an AD360 with XTR16, can you turn off the AD360 with the X1TC?

In my testing, this function works with v.13 and was broken in v.14.

Anyone?

Owen.

elv wrote in post #18015860
This is very clever, and I hate to spoil the fun, though the XT32 transmitter now also has a visual indication of the dip switch settings for each channel, so it makes it very easy to set the dip switches without any other guides needed.

There are combinations where there are a dip switch in one side, and channel numbers in the other. I was thinking more in those combinations than in anything else.

owenegan wrote in post #18015876
Agreed. Makes me wish I had kept up with math.

What I particularly like is that I can actually remember the algorithm. Each switch is worth double the value of the last. Then add one.

I know the XT32 has the little diagram, but I'm likely to be using the X1T mainly, and I like to try to anticipate failure modes / worst-case scenarios so that if they occur on a job I can deal with them fast.

So, thanks again, Endos.

Owen.

You are welcome.

You want faster recycle times at full power using a 600? 2 mask option in your 600's is the answer.

The first image shows the most common way of 2 masking. The first shutter and strobe's light the subject. The second shutter press just lights your background. This will give you two images to bring into photoshop to make a composite image. (Free Masking) https://youtu.be/JdY_4​-xhRs0

I know i said faster recycle times. In example 2 you will set up your light in doubles. 1 will go off on the first shutter button and 2 will go off on your second shutter button. While 1 is recycling you will shot on 2 then it is recycling your shooting on 1 again cutting your recycle time in half.

abbadon31 wrote in post #18016787
You want faster recycle times at full power using a 600? 2 mask option in your 600's is the answer.

The first image shows the most common way of 2 masking. The first shutter and strobe's light the subject. The second shutter press just lights your background. This will give you two images to bring into photoshop to make a composite image. (Free Masking) https://youtu.be/JdY_4​-xhRs0

I know i said faster recycle times. In example 2 you will set up your light in doubles. 1 will go off on the first shutter button and 2 will go off on your second shutter button. While 1 is recycling you will shot on 2 then it is recycling your shooting on 1 again cutting your recycle time in half.

Hosted photo: posted by abbadon31 in
./showthread.php?p=180​16787&i=i62732900
forum: Flash and Studio Lighting

And if you really wanted to go crazy you could gang 4 600s and have them fire every fourth shutter press.
That will permit quite fast bursting at some reasonably high Ws outputs. To do it sets UNITs to 4 and then one light each to 1, 2, 3, and 4th ALT position.

Cheetahstand / Godox XT32 Trigger

Hey Scott,

Thanks for the video, I think that I'm going to pick up the xt32. I've been using the X1 and I sort of hate it. The menu is clunky and I don't use TTL so some of the functionality is worthless to me. The XT32 seems like a better fit. I have one question though, is there a way to turn off a group when you are shooting. I like to set up with a key, fill and sometimes a kicker. Occasionally I like to switch that to be just a one light setup and I used to be able to do that on the fly with my yongnuo 622tx pretty easily. Is there a way to do that with the xt32?

I'm shooting with a xplor600 and an AD360 manual. I have two alien bee's that I keep for background/kicker lights when I need them.

Follow up to the one question- should I pick up the 2.4 GHz receivers for my alien bees? I barely use them and was thinking that slave mode would be sufficient for a background light/kicker. Won't be using them on location.

Hi Scott,

Does the XT32 have a global power adjusting function like the X1T units, where you can turn all groups up or down simultaneously?

Thanks,

Owen.

jbm7777 wrote in post #18017264
Hey Scott,

Thanks for the video, I think that I'm going to pick up the xt32. I've been using the X1 and I sort of hate it. The menu is clunky and I don't use TTL so some of the functionality is worthless to me. The XT32 seems like a better fit. I have one question though, is there a way to turn off a group when you are shooting. I like to set up with a key, fill and sometimes a kicker. Occasionally I like to switch that to be just a one light setup and I used to be able to do that on the fly with my yongnuo 622tx pretty easily. Is there a way to do that with the xt32?

I'm shooting with a xplor600 and an AD360 manual. I have two alien bee's that I keep for background/kicker lights when I need them.

Follow up to the one question- should I pick up the 2.4 GHz receivers for my alien bees? I barely use them and was thinking that slave mode would be sufficient for a background light/kicker. Won't be using them on location.

You can turn off each group, but unlike the XT16 where you can press the to up and down arrows to turn off you have to rotate the wheel.