Sounds like you may want to go back and read up on using an in camera meter to better understand what is going on. (https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=89123 is the frequently suggested reading on this site I believe.)
Spot metering is useful when you want to pick a specific part of the image and then decide where on your 'exposure line' you want to place it. Your exposure line ranges from the darkest black to the brightest colour/white of the image. The meter expects a mid-tone somewhere between the two, because on average most photos will be roughly balanced between very black and very bright.
Of course, not all photos are actually the same, and frequently you need to account for a scene being brighter or darker than what the camera has to assume it actually is. (The camera meter is after all just a very very basic computer, it has no idea if it is pointing at coal or fresh snow, so YOU have to account for that and feed it the suitable adjustments.)
The spot meter makes it that much more critical for you to evaluate and adjust things correctly. Personally I tend to ignore the mid tones while using a spot meter, and instead focus on what parts of the photo are blowing out at either end. The mid tones are in the middle, and they'll be recorded one way or the other, but the shadows and highlights can get crushed very easily in digital, so instead I'll pick the points that I want to be my highlights, and make sure I'm using settings that place them near the far right, but not off the edge.
You can also fall back on using "Sunny 16" and manually setting things while totally ignoring your meter. With digital it works well if you combine Sunny 16 and learning to read the histogram. (Digital doesn't have the dynamic range between light and dark to give you as much of a safety net as most film will. And since you have a computer with a detailed signal analysis toolset in your hands... Well, you may as well take advantage of learning to read what a histogram of a photo tells you. I strongly suggest using the RGB rather than general histogram.)
Long story short: Don't 'chase the needle', 'Set the needle'.
Canon EOS 7D | EF 28 f/1.8 | EF 85 f/1.8 | EF 70-200 f/4L | EF-S 17-55 | Sigma 150-500