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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 29 Mar 2016 (Tuesday) 04:21
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-= 80D owners unite! Discuss and post photos

 
shakeywith
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Apr 12, 2017 09:40 as a reply to  @ post 18325928 |  #841

Totally agree with this statement


A lid for every pan
Canon EOS 80D, 18-55mm, 50mm, 70-300mm
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Cassiedup
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Apr 12, 2017 12:57 |  #842

Vervet Monkey - sort of low key (unintended)


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5D MK IV 80D 17-40L, 70-300L, 300 F2.8L, 500 F4L, 100 F2.8 L Macro Sigma 150-600 S

  
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Larry20d
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Apr 12, 2017 13:52 |  #843

I just picked up a slightly used 80D (I also have a 5D Mark III). Really liking the 80D. My problem is I'm having difficulty in deciding lenses. The 80D came with the 50mm stm (going to sell because I have the 50mm 1.4), the 18-55 stm (don't like the softness) and the 18-135 stm.

I would like to know if my L lenses will be as sharp on the 80D as the 5D. I understand the FOV issues due to the crop sensor.

Any comments and suggestions would be appreciated. My main objective is sharpness as I tend to print at 16x20 and 13x19.

I have to repeat - really liking this 80D !!!!


5D Mark III, Canon 80D,16-35L, 24-105L, 70-300L IS, 100-400L IS, Nifty 50 1.4, Canon 135L, Canon 85 1.8, Canon EFS 18-135, Canon 55-250, Sigma 150 Macro, EFS-18-135, Sigma 150-600 Contemporary, Extension Tubes, Canon G10

  
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Cassiedup
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Apr 12, 2017 15:51 as a reply to  @ Larry20d's post |  #844

Used my 80D with 70-300L and 500 F4 L so far, absolutely no issues with sharpness except for user error ...


5D MK IV 80D 17-40L, 70-300L, 300 F2.8L, 500 F4L, 100 F2.8 L Macro Sigma 150-600 S

  
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Larry20d
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Apr 12, 2017 15:59 |  #845

Cassiedup wrote in post #18326269 (external link)
Used my 80D with 70-300L and 500 F4 L so far, absolutely no issues with sharpness except for user error ...


Thanks, good to know. Have you tried the 17-40 on the 80D. My copy has never "wowed" me. Was thinking of selling and buying 16-35L F/4.

One more question, if you don't mind. What is your "walkaround" lens on the 80D.

Thanks


5D Mark III, Canon 80D,16-35L, 24-105L, 70-300L IS, 100-400L IS, Nifty 50 1.4, Canon 135L, Canon 85 1.8, Canon EFS 18-135, Canon 55-250, Sigma 150 Macro, EFS-18-135, Sigma 150-600 Contemporary, Extension Tubes, Canon G10

  
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Smitty2k1
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Post edited over 1 year ago by Smitty2k1.
     
Apr 12, 2017 17:01 |  #846

Larry20d wrote in post #18326281 (external link)
Thanks, good to know. Have you tried the 17-40 on the 80D. My copy has never "wowed" me. Was thinking of selling and buying 16-35L F/4.

One more question, if you don't mind. What is your "walkaround" lens on the 80D.

Thanks

IMO walk-around lens on any Canon crop should be the 17-55 EF-S.

Although, people seem to be really into the 18-135 STM. I've never used one so I can't comment.




  
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i-G12
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Apr 12, 2017 17:16 |  #847

Smitty2k1 wrote in post #18326342 (external link)
IMO walk-around lens on any Canon crop should be the 17-55 EF-S.

Although, people seem to be really into the 18-135 STM. I've never used one so I can't comment.

I use the 18-135 even though I have the 15-85.

The 18-135 is sharp and has a lot of flexibility! JMO.




  
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Tom ­ Reichner
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Post edited over 1 year ago by Tom Reichner.
     
Apr 12, 2017 18:18 |  #848

Warl0rd wrote in post #18324942 (external link)
My issue is the camera displaying on the viewfinder AF points over the infinite (supposedly telling me those spots are sharp), but they are not!


Do not light up AF points that won't be sharp, is that wrong to ask?

I think that perhaps you do not understand what it means when an AF point lights up. .

You seem to think that when the camera lights up AF points, it is telling you which ones have confirmed focus. That has never been my experience at all with Canon DSLRs. In my experience, the AF points that light up are the ones that are active. They light up because they are actively looking for contrast to focus on.

When an AF point is lit up, it means, "hey, i am looking for something in my zone to focus on". . It does NOT mean, "hey, I am now focused on something." . This has been true with my 1D2, my 40D, my 50D, my 5D, and my 1D4. I have no reason to think that the 80D would be any different.

.


"Your" and "you're" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"They're", "their", and "there" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"Fare" and "fair" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one. The proper expression is "moot point", NOT "mute point".

  
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Tom ­ Reichner
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Post edited over 1 year ago by Tom Reichner. (3 edits in all)
     
Apr 12, 2017 18:29 |  #849

little johny wrote in post #18316191 (external link)
Do not understand why there is a grey patch under the left wing.

The picture was shot under manual mode without proper exposure adjustment. I think it is under exposed. Even that is true, why should the dark area turned out grey instead of dark brown ?

The lens combo is Sigma 150-600_C. This is not the first time it happens.

Any idea ?
QUOTED IMAGE

Johny,

I feel bad that it's been almost two weeks, and it appears to me that no one has bothered to answer your question. If this is the case, then I apologize - the POTN community should be better than that.

There does not appear to be anything wrong with the exposure or the rendering of your goose photo. Feathers are complex things that reflect light in complex, often unexpected ways. The underwing of the goose just happened to be at an angle that reflected more light toward the camera than it absorbed. It's kind of like when you have a watch on and you can "aim" its reflection at different things in different directions by slightly moving your wrist around.

Based on this question of yours, and also the statements about a raven that you made on another thread, you seem to have a very set, rigid way of thinking when it comes to how feathers in bird wings will look when they are photographed. But bird feathers are not so easy to predict, due to the 'shimmering' nature of their surface.

With just the tiniest change in angle, the underside of a bird's wing can go from being all bright and reflective to being dark and dull. It has everything to do with the reflective properties of the feather surface, and nothing to do with exposure or settings or what gear was used.

.


"Your" and "you're" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"They're", "their", and "there" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"Fare" and "fair" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one. The proper expression is "moot point", NOT "mute point".

  
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Cassiedup
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Apr 13, 2017 05:13 as a reply to  @ Larry20d's post |  #850

Hi, unfortunately I've had the 80D only for 6-weeks now and will probably never use the 17-40 on it as that will be reserved for my 5D, as I'm mainly doing wildlife and birds my walkaround lens is the 70-300 :-)


5D MK IV 80D 17-40L, 70-300L, 300 F2.8L, 500 F4L, 100 F2.8 L Macro Sigma 150-600 S

  
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MatthewK
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Apr 13, 2017 05:23 as a reply to  @ Larry20d's post |  #851

That time period between selling my 5D3 and the 5D4 release, I used the 80D full time. I only had EF lenses, and the lens that got used the most was the 16-35 f/4. Great walk around focal length on an APSC sensor camera. Also used the 24L a lot too.

If I were to go all 80D, I'd be looking at these lenses for sure:

15-85
55-250 STM


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therobveiller
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Apr 14, 2017 03:10 |  #852

Rock Pipit about to launch into flight.




  
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Michael456
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Apr 14, 2017 03:47 |  #853

Cassiedup wrote in post #18326116 (external link)
Vervet Monkey - sort of low key (unintended)


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Hosted photo: posted by Cassiedup in
./showthread.php?p=183​26116&i=i264820232
forum: Canon EOS Digital Cameras

Wonderful fine detail considering it's ISO 6400!




  
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little ­ johny
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Apr 14, 2017 07:45 |  #854

Tom Reichner wrote in post #18326415 (external link)
Johny,

I feel bad that it's been almost two weeks, and it appears to me that no one has bothered to answer your question. If this is the case, then I apologize - the POTN community should be better than that.

There does not appear to be anything wrong with the exposure or the rendering of your goose photo. Feathers are complex things that reflect light in complex, often unexpected ways. The underwing of the goose just happened to be at an angle that reflected more light toward the camera than it absorbed. It's kind of like when you have a watch on and you can "aim" its reflection at different things in different directions by slightly moving your wrist around.

Based on this question of yours, and also the statements about a raven that you made on another thread, you seem to have a very set, rigid way of thinking when it comes to how feathers in bird wings will look when they are photographed. But bird feathers are not so easy to predict, due to the 'shimmering' nature of their surface.

With just the tiniest change in angle, the underside of a bird's wing can go from being all bright and reflective to being dark and dull. It has everything to do with the reflective properties of the feather surface, and nothing to do with exposure or settings or what gear was used.

.

First of all I thank you for your response to my post.

The Canon service centre did find something wrong with the metering system of the camera and apparently they did something to the metering sensor. So, I was not seeing things…… Will see how pictures turn out after the fix.

I do understand the problem dealing with birds, and I have been shooting goose since day one I picked up my first DSLR which is a T3i. I have never ever seen anything like the picture I posted. The problem with the image is the patch looks too solid, lack of the fuzziness in tone transition if you see what I mean.




  
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Tom ­ Reichner
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Post edited over 1 year ago by Tom Reichner.
     
Apr 14, 2017 09:09 |  #855

little johny wrote in post #18327625 (external link)
The Canon service centre did find something wrong with the metering system of the camera and apparently they did something to the metering sensor. So, I was not seeing things…… Will see how pictures turn out after the fix.

I do understand the problem dealing with birds, and I have been shooting goose since day one I picked up my first DSLR which is a T3i. I have never ever seen anything like the picture I posted. The problem with the image is the patch looks too solid, lack of the fuzziness in tone transition if you see what I mean.

But the "problem" with the wing has nothing to do with metering. It couldn't possibly have anything to do with metering. Metering only affects exposure, and exposure affects the entire frame.

If you have a problem with one relatively small part of a photo, and the rest of the photo is fine, then that problem is not exposure related. If the exposure were "bad", then the entire frame would either be under-exposed or over-exposed.

Plus, you could "fix" that by simply exposing differently. There is actually no need for a meter at all, as you can just shoot manually.

.


"Your" and "you're" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"They're", "their", and "there" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"Fare" and "fair" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one. The proper expression is "moot point", NOT "mute point".

  
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