With indoor macro, whats everyone using for lighting? Was thinking of getting a Wescott 50inch softbox and an Eisten. Would that be sufficient?
DanFrank Senior Member 380 posts Likes: 3 Joined Dec 2010 Location: Buffalo, NY More info | Apr 14, 2016 07:09 | #1 With indoor macro, whats everyone using for lighting? Was thinking of getting a Wescott 50inch softbox and an Eisten. Would that be sufficient? Gear "A creative man is motivated by the desire to achieve, not by the desire to beat others"
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Swiftlet Member 80 posts Likes: 12 Joined Feb 2016 More info Post edited over 7 years ago by Swiftlet. | Apr 15, 2016 08:16 | #2
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Apr 15, 2016 13:55 | #3 Permanent banI use my Hensel monolights for indoor, still life macro. The Curtain Falls And even for some 'outdoor' macros: Image hosted by forum (787432) © Alveric [SHARE LINK] THIS IS A LOW QUALITY PREVIEW. Please log in to see the good quality stuff. IMAGE LINK: http://www.ipernity.com/doc/diamantstudios/40628370 Icestar 'The success of the second-rate is deplorable in itself; but it is more deplorable in that it very often obscures the genuine masterpiece. If the crowd runs after the false, it must neglect the true.' —Arthur Machen
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Dalantech Cream of the Crop 5,379 posts Gallery: 525 photos Best ofs: 5 Likes: 3547 Joined Jul 2006 Location: Mt. Vernon, Mo. (living in Italy) More info | Apr 18, 2016 04:18 | #4 There are a couple of things that make answering your question not so cut and dry. If you have your camera on a tripod, and if the subject isn't moving, then you won't be too concerned about the duration of the flash. But if you're hand holding the camera, shooting a moving target, or both then you'll want to get the flash as close to the subject as possible to keep the duration of the light as short as possible. Also the closer the diffuser is to the subject the better the diffusion will be. Then we can also talk about the general quality of the light -color temp, softness (not to be confused with diffusion), etc. There are some areas that I've struggled with that have had a big influence on how I diffuse the MT-24EX. Beetle shells: IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/yPe44wThe eyes of some solitary bees:IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/Fmk3ok Some of them are actually quite glossy and it's really easy to blow out the specular highlights. My Gallery
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Apr 18, 2016 04:41 | #5 Good photos but the first one is of Bugs not Beetles (Hemiptera not Coleoptera).
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Dalantech Cream of the Crop 5,379 posts Gallery: 525 photos Best ofs: 5 Likes: 3547 Joined Jul 2006 Location: Mt. Vernon, Mo. (living in Italy) More info | Apr 18, 2016 05:17 | #6 davholla wrote in post #17975831 Good photos but the first one is of Bugs not Beetles (Hemiptera not Coleoptera). I think everyone struggles with them. Good catch My Gallery
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Apr 18, 2016 05:19 | #7 Thanks I meant to say everyone struggles with the light on their exo skeleton not distinguishing between them.
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Dalantech Cream of the Crop 5,379 posts Gallery: 525 photos Best ofs: 5 Likes: 3547 Joined Jul 2006 Location: Mt. Vernon, Mo. (living in Italy) More info | Apr 18, 2016 05:26 | #8 davholla wrote in post #17975846 Thanks I meant to say everyone struggles with the light on their exo skeleton not distinguishing between them. Even with natural light there can be problems. I actually find natural light easier in some ways, but when it's good there just isn't enough of it for anything but still life (with the camera on a tripod) at 1x and higher mag. That's why I prefer to use a flash, since it gives me more options. The trick, at least for me and my photographic style, is to get the light quality that I want in a very small space. I don't think it's possible to have a discussion about macro lighting without taking technique into account. There's a big difference between choosing a method and then finding subjects that you can photograph with it verses letting the subject dictate what you're going to do. My Gallery
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