Do I really need image stabilization on Canon (EF) 70 - 200 f/4 or Sigma (EF-S) 50 - 150 f/2.8 lens?

If I am taking pictures of runners and bicyclists outdoors, panning and zooming the lens as I shoot in AF Servo, do I need the image stabilization version of the Canon EF 70 to 200 f/4 lens? Or the Sigma DC (EF-S) 50 to 150 f2.8 lens? Is there some sports action shutter speed rule of thumb where image stabilization is not necessary above a particular shutter speed? If I am using a Canon 50D ASP-C does that affect your answer? Would this even be a situation where you would recommend turning off image stabilization?

Please don't say it would be nice to have image stabilization it if I am taking pictures of x, y, and z in some other situation. I mean really. In the above situation. Is it necessary?

Right now I am practicing using a Canon 28 to 135 f/3.5 to 5.6 USM lens with image stabilization on, and when I take pictures of runners and bicyclists the pictures are softer than pictures using the same aperture and shutter of stationary objects. Shooting in the range of f/5.6 and 1/250 to 1/1000. I am using AF Servo. I thought that it might be due to my panning the lens while racking the zoom to follow them as they run or ride at me, so I stopped racking the zoom and and just pan enough to shoot as they come at me. And my images are still softer than the same lens taking pictures of stationary objects. Do you have any advice to help me get sharper pictures with that lens?

Thank you so much.

Tim.

You won't need IS to shoot those sort of subjects. Turn it off and use a shutter speed fast enough to freeze the subject and your images will be sharp.(as long as your technique is right,obviously).

To really freeze a moving subject you should be at at least 1/250 to prevent "ghosting"; 1/500 would be really good; the faster, the better but your lens needs to be wide open. With a lens at f4, you will have to bump up the ISO which may affect the IQ. I am not familiar with the Sigma but obviously it's much faster than the Canon. Maybe some folks will have something to say about it.
Image stabilization does absolutely nothing for sports.
I turn off the IS when shooting the moon on a tripod with a very long exposure time but in your case it's irrelevant.
I used to have a Canon 70-200 f4 and it was a crazy sharp lens but with your camera and the lighting f4 may not be fast enough

The advatage to having IS will be when panning (if there is a panning mode in the IS modes) otherwise it wont help you much shooting sports but if youll use the lens for something different such as family events you will be very happy you have IS.

The 70-200/4 IS has mode 2 stabilization for panning which turns off one axis of stabilization so it doesn't try to compensate for the panning. This can be helpful in these situations. I am not sure about the Sigma 50-150 OS but the 28-135 doesn't have it.

And contrary to what was stated above, you can't just increase the shutter speed when panning cyclists or it will freeze the spokes. You are going to want to show some blur in the spokes to give a sense of movement.

My views on IS are well known here and widely criticised!
The bottom line, in my opinion/experience, is that unless you have a lens that handles/balances REALLY badly then IS is of little use for pretty much anything. Note the point about the handling/balance of the lens - this is important. I recently bought a Canon 100-400 Mk2 and I simply cannot hold this lens steady! It is a lovely lens but when I am hand holding (much of the time) I frequently have to resort to IS mode 3. On my other lenses (including my 800mm F5.6 L IS) IS is just not used as it gets in the way of the AF. IS is a nice feature to have in reserve but (with the exception of the 100-400 Mk2) I have not found a situation when I wanted it for any type of shooting from 16 to 800mm for over 2 years, and for sports + wildlife IS is just a liability to me.

On another thread I posted a few images to illustrate the point. They were taken with my 100-400 Mk2 + a 1.4 extender (560mm) at 1/50 sec. The first two are without IS and the second two are without - note the consecutive file numbers so there was no picking out the best ones. See what you think.

don1163 wrote in post #17975237
(as long as your technique is right,obviously)

Thank you for your reply, but although it may be obvious to you, it is not obvious to me what things other than equipment, equipment settings, and the exposure triangle would make up correct technique for sports action shooting. Other than: Keep my feet on the ground. Consider the environment. Remember the children.

But really. I know when I am standing outside with my equipment. That a better photographer would take better pictures right there with my equipment. And I know that they really could not tell me what they are doing to get better images because they do not really know. And the best advice they would have would be to simply say, go take thousands of pictures.

I have been on Flickr and looked up images that were taken with my inexpensive lens. And I threw up because some were so good.

Next two with IS.
Note I am not Arnie! I have arms like matchsticks as well as arthritis, diabetes, etc etc. If I don't need IS at 560mm and 1/50 sec then I don't think you will benefit from it at the shutter speeds that you need.

FEChariot, you're right with the spokes of a cyclist but the OP didn't say what kind of sports he/she was shooting

itsallart wrote in post #17975268
..the faster, the better but your lens needs to be wide open. With a lens at f4, you will have to bump up the ISO which may affect the IQ.

Excellent. Yes I am shooting Av to keep my aperture open. I had not thought of an advantage of 2.8 would be another stop shutter speed. I was only thinking depth of field.

well, f2.8 is very important. Obviously, I don't know what your specific situation is going to be and what kind of sports you are going to shoot. I don't know anything about shooting in AV because i'm a totally manual mode girl If AV keeps the ISO at bay, then you're all set. But what about the shutter speed? Sorry, I'm really not familiar with any AV or TV or whatever Sorry

Me too! Manual is so much simpler for my poor little brain!

itsallart wrote in post #17975317
FEChariot, you're right with the spokes of a cyclist but the OP didn't say what kind of sports he/she was shooting

Running and cycling are in the first sentence of the OP.

FEChariot wrote in post #17975292
The 70-200/4 IS has mode 2 stabilization for panning which turns off one axis of stabilization so it doesn't try to compensate for the panning. This can be helpful in these situations. I am not sure about the Sigma 50-150 OS but the 28-135 doesn't have it.

I just want to add that the 50-150 OS does have a panning OS mode.

Panning mode can be helpful when you need to slow your shutter speed more when panning to give the photo motion.

When photographing cyclist while panning I'm usually not trying to stop the motion but I'm rather trying to give the photograph motion. So on dimly lit trails (thick canopy single track) shutter speed can drop a bit below what I might consider optimal. In those case I like to have that mode 2. Does it do anything more then give me piece of mind? Honestly it might not. But it's there, I use it, and it makes me feel better

FEChariot wrote in post #17975382
Running and cycling are in the first sentence of the OP.

FE Chariot, you're absolutely right. I hope I'm forgiven, being an elderly person