7d2 AF Servo question

Is the first image taken in a burst in focus? If it's not, then maybe the camera is playing catch up. I shot some superbikes last week and found I got better results (100-400mm MkII) when I used the AF-on button to get the focusing and IS started before pressing the shutter release. I was using Case 1 and I am a 7DII newbie, so might be talking utter boll*cks. Anyway, thought I'd chip in just the same.

Good luck.

For high school rugby my 7D2 + 100-400 II or 70-200 II comes in around 60-70% usable frames in a burst at 400mm f/5.6 1/1000 - 1/2000. The other 30-40% are either misses due to shallow DOF (wrong player, AF point landing somewhere other than chest/face) or what looks like motion blur from hand holding beyond what IS can compensate for. On players moving parallel to the sensor it's possible pan rate is introducing some blurring. I try to track a player for a few steps before hitting the shutter. When the AF system isn't locked it's pretty obvious.

Lens: focus limiter 2.5m/3m to infinity, stabilizer mode 2.
Body: Tracking sensitivity -2, Accel/Decel tracking +2, AF pt auto switching +2, 4 or 8 pt expansion, 1st/2nd image priority focus. Back buttons AF-ON configured for one shot, * for servo. Constantly checking with my thumb that I'm on the right button. I get better stationary subject results with one shot. Servo seems to get weird with stationary subjects from time to time.

I'll switch the tracking sensitivity to +2 periodically to allow the AF system to move from player to player faster if the game calls for it. I try to choose a single player to follow for a while, get a shot or two and move to the next.

Lee

That looks quite good, I've been trying to figure out my camera holding systems, I've got a chest strap that holds both of my cameras because I do a lot of event photography where I'm switching between cameras all the time

Spot focus “Precise” is not the same as “accurate!”

http://www.learn.usa.c​anon.com …ticles/2014/spo​t_AF.shtml

Some info about achieving 10 FPS. Canon suggests to disable iTR and anti flicker. Everything you run your don't need uses resources. The red arrow is for a previous thread for warnings about specific lenses

http://s33.photobucket​.com …1ac.jpg.html?so​rt=3&o=187

aezoss wrote in post #17986204
For high school rugby my 7D2 + 100-400 II or 70-200 II comes in around 60-70% usable frames in a burst at 400mm f/5.6 1/1000 - 1/2000. The other 30-40% are either misses due to shallow DOF (wrong player, AF point landing somewhere other than chest/face) or what looks like motion blur from hand holding beyond what IS can compensate for. On players moving parallel to the sensor it's possible pan rate is introducing some blurring. I try to track a player for a few steps before hitting the shutter. When the AF system isn't locked it's pretty obvious.

Lens: focus limiter 2.5m/3m to infinity, stabilizer mode 2.
Body: Tracking sensitivity -2, Accel/Decel tracking +2, AF pt auto switching +2, 4 or 8 pt expansion, 1st/2nd image priority focus. Back buttons AF-ON configured for one shot, * for servo. Constantly checking with my thumb that I'm on the right button. I get better stationary subject results with one shot. Servo seems to get weird with stationary subjects from time to time.

I'll switch the tracking sensitivity to +2 periodically to allow the AF system to move from player to player faster if the game calls for it. I try to choose a single player to follow for a while, get a shot or two and move to the next.

Lee

Tracking sensitivity -2, Accel/Decel tracking +2, AF pt auto switching +2. Art Morris talks about doing better than Canon and suggests those numbers in one of his 7D2 birding setup videos. He sets Case 3 up that way because he does not use it for anything else. I set case 3 that way as well but have not tried it yet.

I like to use zone 65 point AF and Case 6 if there are not too many other distractions. Setting up the initial AF point helps lock and track the subject and the 7D2 does remarkably well at this. Even without initial AF point it isolates the closest object well. TS at -2 helps to ignore other players. Typically 4 or 8 point expansion gives you total control instead of the computer. Here is an example of bird that the 7D2 tracked well in 65 point zone.

These are from a hockey game a few weeks ago. 12, 800 ISO that I shot in 4 pt expansion using the 70-200 2.8 II. Case 2, TS -2

Good results, the last shot of the gull is impressive. One thing I'm not clear on is whether there is additional logic built into the cases or just variations of the three parameters.

Checked out Arthur Morris' DLC videos, he's a cool guy. Great advice in those clips.

The shots below are case 3, -2, +2, +2, 8pt expansion. Definitely room for improvement but I'm still getting acquainted with the 7D2 (okay, lame excuse...)

Lee

aezoss wrote in post #17987671
One thing I'm not clear on is whether there is additional logic built into the cases or just variations of the three parameters.

Your shots look good.

There was a long thread about this at Fred Miranda and was discussed here I believe. No one really knows for sure but there only two answers from Canon that I know of.

One person from FM called Canon and the help desk said there was additional logic. Another at FM said someone at POTN got confirmation directly from Rudy Winston that there is no additional logic. I have talked to the help desk and I'm not sure I would trust them 100%. They are helpful but as I was waiting for an answer once I'm pretty sure the person was looking in the manual.

There is no real documentation on that anywhere and trust me I have looked. I don't know why but I have always felt there is no additional logic based on Canon's 7D2 videos, etc. The reason for the case numbers is simply to make it easier out in the field rather than playing around with the parameters for different situations. The 7D was much simpler. You wound need to carry around a note pad for the 7D2. I can't back any of this as I have not done any testing myself.

Geejay wrote in post #17985853
Is the first image taken in a burst in focus? If it's not, then maybe the camera is playing catch up. I shot some superbikes last week and found I got better results (100-400mm MkII) when I used the AF-on button to get the focusing and IS started before pressing the shutter release. I was using Case 1 and I am a 7DII newbie, so might be talking utter boll*cks. Anyway, thought I'd chip in just the same.

Good luck.

Yeah the first shot is in focus 99% of the time, I think I've figured out my problem, it was that I had the release and focus priority set neutral, basically the camera was going for FPS and not Focus, I'm shooting motorsport this weekend so it'll be a little different but I'll try the new settings and see if I have better luck

aezoss wrote in post #17986204
For high school rugby my 7D2 + 100-400 II or 70-200 II comes in around 60-70% usable frames in a burst at 400mm f/5.6 1/1000 - 1/2000. The other 30-40% are either misses due to shallow DOF (wrong player, AF point landing somewhere other than chest/face) or what looks like motion blur from hand holding beyond what IS can compensate for. On players moving parallel to the sensor it's possible pan rate is introducing some blurring. I try to track a player for a few steps before hitting the shutter. When the AF system isn't locked it's pretty obvious.

Lens: focus limiter 2.5m/3m to infinity, stabilizer mode 2.
Body: Tracking sensitivity -2, Accel/Decel tracking +2, AF pt auto switching +2, 4 or 8 pt expansion, 1st/2nd image priority focus. Back buttons AF-ON configured for one shot, * for servo. Constantly checking with my thumb that I'm on the right button. I get better stationary subject results with one shot. Servo seems to get weird with stationary subjects from time to time.

I'll switch the tracking sensitivity to +2 periodically to allow the AF system to move from player to player faster if the game calls for it. I try to choose a single player to follow for a while, get a shot or two and move to the next.

Lee

I agree servo can get a bit jumpy on stationary subjects, I usually focus, release (bbf) and re-frame and hope for the best

Oh I love that Anti flicker function! I was doing an indoor shoot with my 7d2 and 6d and the number of shots with the 6d that had an odd colour cast from the frequency of the lighting was so frustrating!

Panning objects I have a much higher strike rate with, it has mostly been subjects heading straight at me that have been an issue

The first and second shots looks like good examples of what I've been having trouble with, I would like to see the results of a burst sequence with the players coming straight at you to see how many have perfect focus

Milutiche wrote in post #17988306
Oh I love that Anti flicker function! I was doing an indoor shoot with my 7d2 and 6d and the number of shots with the 6d that had an odd colour cast from the frequency of the lighting was so frustrating!

It worked well shooting a hockey game a few weeks ago.

In the first shot were you using AI servo or had you pre focused for the dog to jump into frame? also, if you were on ai servo/burst how did the rest of the shots turn out?

You probably have this already, but just in case....

http://learn.usa.canon​.com …os7dmk2_afGuide​book.shtml