Unfortunately Orion isn't currently visible. The sun is currently in that section of the sky. You have to wait for winter months for the Earth to swing around to the other side of the sun in order to view it.
But there are lots of interesting objects in the band of the Milky Way... region (most of the interesting stuff is near the band of the Milky Way).
For example...
M8 (Lagoon Nebula) and M20 (Trifid Nebula) are very close together (they could both be framed in the same image using a 500mm or wider lens). Using a 300mm focal length you could easily fit M8, M20, and M21 (an "open cluster" of stars) in the same frame.
M16 (Eagle Nebula) and M17 (Omega Nebula) are also very close and could easily be framed using a 300mm or wider lens.
The North American Nebula (NGC 7000) is quite high in the sky just near the tail of Cygnus the Swan -- it would nearly fill the frame of a 500mm lens (or scope).
The Veil Nebulae (Western and Eastern Veil) are NGC 6960 and 6992 and also would fit in the frame of a 500mm focal length lens.
The Antares / Rho Ophiuchi region (in Scorpius) is very colorful at about 135mm (low to the horizon for Northern Hemisphere observers.)
If you stay up late enough you can image the Andromeda Galaxy (the galaxy is about 6x wider than the width of the full moon -- so it occupies a larger piece of sky than you might guess). Things tend to image better if you wait for them to rise high enough in the sky (usually at least 30º above the horizon... or even 40º). Not all objects rise this high (the core of the Milky way doesn't get very high up for those living at northern latitudes) but Andromeda does get quite high up if you wait. If you wait until 3am it's quite high... or you can just wait until, say, August or September to image it and then it'll be quite high without having to wait so late in the AM.
There are several types of "nebulae" including "emission nebulae" (gases that are glowing), "reflection nebulae" (gases that are not glowing but reflecting the light of nearby stars), dark nebulae (black clouds that aren't glowing or reflecting), and "planetary nebulae" (really the shells of gas expanding outward from stars that have died -- these tend to be very small and need long focal length telescopes to see them. I have a photo of the Dumbbell Nebula that I've posted here but that was taken through a 14" aperture Celestron C14 which has a focal length of 3910mm -- so you won't see those in wider field camera images because they are too small.)
I mention these types because of these, "emission nebula" tend to be dominated by gases glowing in the Hydrogen alpha wavelength -- which is a red color. Hydrogen is the MOST dominant atom in the universe (by far)... roughly 90% of all normal matter is hydrogen atoms. This is why astro-imagers want cameras that are sensitive to that particular wavelength of light. But Humans are visually not particularly sensitive to reds... so a typical photographic camera has a filter in front of the sensor which trims the wavelengths of light that can pass in order to imitate the sensitivity of the human eye. An unfiltered camera is somewhere around 4-5 times more sensitive than a filtered camera. So... these cameras that are modified for astrophotography tend to be about 4x more sensitive to these reds (that would be like taking an exposure which is 4x longer).
Canon's model was the Canon 60Da but they ran out of the supply of those. Nikon introduced the D810a (but it's expensive.)
What most people tend to do is get a used or less expensive DSLR and then modify it by doing surgery on the camera and replacing the internal filter.
Hutech sells a version of the camera 6D which has been modified for astrophotography and the advantage of the Hutech version is that they're (so I'm told) an authorized Canon service center... so if Hutech does the modification it doesn't void the warranty.
The modified cameras do a much better job imaging these areas (and the exposure time required is significantly less) than using a standard (unmodified) camera.
You can use astrophotography software to help you determine what's up in the night sky and even how it will frame through a telescope or camera lens.
I use Starry Night Pro Plus 7 (the "pro plus" version is about $250, the "pro" version is about $150) to do this. It lets me enter my equipment list of telescopes, cameras, eyepieces, etc. It doesn't specifically support camera lenses but you can enter a camera lens as if it were a telescope and it'll calculate the accurate frame of view (the area of sky visible) through that lens with any given camera.
You can do this with Stellarium (Stellarium is free software) too. It's not quite as advanced as Starry Night but you can't beat the price.
A few other tips... you'll typically be shooting at higher ISO... e.g. 800 or 1600. But noise is higher at these high ISOs AND it builds up over the long exposures. To combat the noise, you can take LOTS of frames (e.g. say 25 frames) of the subject. Take about half as many frames with the lens capped (e.g. put the lens cover on and take 13 more frames -- these are called "dark" frames). Using the same ISO, but the fastest shutter speed, take the same number of frames (e.g. 1/4000th sec exposures at the same ISO you used for your "light frames") and these are called "Bias frames" Lastly, you typically want something called "flat frames" and to take those you need something which is PERFECTLY EVEN illumination in front of the camera lens and then just take a middle exposure (you could hold an iPad with an "all white" screen in front of the camera lens and take another 13 exposures metered so that those images are middle-gray).
All of these are combined in a program such as the free "Deep Sky Stacker" (you may hear people mention "Registax" or "AutoStakkert2" -- Registax and AutoStakkert are for "planetary" imaging -- not deep space. Registax and AutoStakkert use the round shape of the planet to register (align) the frames for stacking... Deep Sky Stacker uses the positions of bright stars to register (align) the frames for stacking. You feed Deep Sky Stacker all the data and it'll combine to produce your image.
The combined (fully calibrated, registered, and integrated) image then still requires some post processing to stretch the image data and tease out the beautiful details.
