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Thread started 05 Jul 2016 (Tuesday) 10:12
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Good birding tips video

 
teekay
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Post edited over 7 years ago by teekay.
     
Jul 05, 2016 10:12 |  #1

Came across this video on Youtube recently. The presenter comes across a bit on the heavy side but I thought many of the points he makes were well worth noting. I don't take many bird photos, particularly BIF, so I learned something useful.

https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=58G-ttOw6PM (external link)

What do you more experienced birders think of it?




  
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frozenframe
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Jul 07, 2016 05:14 |  #2

I don't have time to watch this right now, have to leave for work. I'll watch it later.

Search for ones by Moose Peterson (external link), and Arthur Morris (external link), they're also some big-league bird or wildlife photographers.


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Duane ­ N
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Jul 07, 2016 15:56 |  #3

I watched most of it and agree with many of the things he says to do and not do.

I have a lot of people ask me how I get the images I capture and the one thing I always point out is to pay attention to the light, it's angle to the subject and shadows. I'm one of those photographers that is usually home by 8:30-9am depending on the time of year. I've taken enough overhead light shots when I first started this expensive hobby and now I'm very selective on the times I photograph stuff.


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Tom ­ Reichner
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Post edited over 7 years ago by Tom Reichner. (3 edits in all)
     
Jul 08, 2016 10:31 |  #4

.

teekay wrote in post #18058489 (external link)
What do you more experienced birders think of it?

I think that what he discusses from 6:50 to 9:20 is essentially important.

When I see bird and wildlife photographers shooting from a standing-up position, and the subject is down on the ground, so that the photographer is aiming the camera at a downward angle...........it absolutely baffles my mind why someone would ever shoot from such an angle.

The same thing with a bird that is overhead. If you have to aim your camera at a steep upward angle, why even bother to take the photo - it's gonna suck.

I think he does a good job of emphasizing these points and shows how important it is to shoot from a position that is basically level with the subject. This is why most pro bird photographers will often shoot from a completely prone position, and is also why many pros will employ the use of tall ladders and/or tree stands when photographing birds that are nesting up in the trees.

.


"Your" and "you're" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
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"Fare" and "fair" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one. The proper expression is "moot point", NOT "mute point".

  
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Duane ­ N
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Jul 08, 2016 14:37 |  #5

Tom Reichner wrote in post #18061250 (external link)
.
...........it absolutely baffles my mind why someone would ever shoot from such an angle.

why even bother to take the photo - it's gonna suck.

.

I've concluded there are some that just like to take pictures and are happy they got something on focus or in the frame. It doesn't help when people post pictures on social media and everyone says "nice shot" or something polite about the image....that certainly doesn't help if they want to improve. I stopped offering my advice (even when asked) because many people want to see the nice shot comments or hear them. If someone does ask me now I return the question to them and ask what they think of it because that's all that matters in the long run.


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Jul 20, 2016 14:55 |  #6

I just reviewed the YouTube video, and at a later part of the video, one of the pointers stated, "when starting out, use center point focus" without delving into this particular topic. Would anyone care to comment about this? Why is this a preferred mode of focus "when starting out" and is there another preferred mode of focus after having acquired a plenty of experience?



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Duane ­ N
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Jul 20, 2016 15:56 |  #7

I done wildlife photography as a hobby for 8 years and I've always used center point focus. I move the focus point around for composition on stationary subjects but for in-flights center point only. If I'm photographing something without a cluttered background I may switch it to the outer focus points on my Mark IV's but that's rare. I find it easier leaving things alone on my camera bodies and just concentrate on keeping things in the viewfinder.


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Larry ­ Johnson
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Nov 26, 2016 12:03 |  #8

He's certainly a professional photographer with lots of beautiful photographs. His tips would have been better if he provided more detail and specifics. His basic message was; shoot in manual mode (good one), increase your ISO so you can shoot at a higher shutter speed (OK), expose for the highlights (good advice), use a long lens (check), get at a good angle (good), don't worry about depth of field (never do), use a fast data card (got one), don't shoot between 9:30am and one or two hours before sunset (bologna), practice a lot (when I can), and drink beer (never while I'm shooting).

I can only assume that his talk was aimed at beginners, many of whom probably don't know how to use the meter. His explanation of how to expose for the highlights was, well, pathetic.
He didn't explain what he means by a "fast" card. mbps?
There's plenty of good light during the day in the woods, maybe not for BIFs, but then again, many of his examples weren't BIFs.
Blurred wings (and panned backgrounds) can be a nice effect, but I get that the trend seems to be sharp wing edges.
He barely mentioned AI Servo, metering mode, or AF point selection. 18% gray wasn't mentioned. Back button AF?
He briefly recommended using continuous focus. I turn mine off.

SYS, I use center spot AF. I don't want the camera focusing in on a ripple in the water or something else besides the bird. Aim small, miss small. Kind of a stupid saying, but it applies.


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Good birding tips video
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