If you are going to a show and you cannot swing owning a long lens, then rent one. It's what I did for several years before I was able to acquire my Sigma 150-600 C. I don't know what it's like in the Republic, but over here in the UK I was able to hire a 100-400 L ver 1 for about £80 all in, including the courier both ways for a three day weekend, which could work out to be have the lens delivered Wednesday, and ship it back Monday, if you did the hire days right. If it's only going to be two or three, or less, shows a year then this is actually not too bad. Saying that now I have the big lens I do use it for a lot more than just the airshows, it's one of those things that if you have it, you find other uses for it.
Without being able to see the RAW file it is hard to say if your images are underexposed, or could just do with a different approach to PP. My usual technique is to ETTR so that any specular highlights, such as the sun reflecting from the canopy is just at the point of clipping, not that you had that problem I see. The when I process in LR I will normally end up with the Highlights slider at -100, the exposure slider at around -1EV, although that tends to vary the most, it could be between -0.5 and -2. Then the Shadows slider is usually up around +100. I then use the black nad white point sliders to bring the histogram out so that it fills all the way from left to right. Because I am using quite a lot of negative in the highlights and via the Exposure slider the midtones, the really large positive value for the shadows slider doesn't really hurt the image, as it is effectively only bring them back up to the level they were exposed at. Without the pulling applied because of the ETTR you could really run into trouble noise wise if you try that big boost.
Something else to try is installing Magic Lantern on your camera. As well as all the stuff for video, it has some really good features for still photography. One is DualISO, this allows you to expose alternate row pairs at different ISO values. Using a combination of ISO 100 and 800 you can for example get an extra three stops of dynamic range out of the camera. You do lose a bit of vertical resolution, especially if you continue exposing for a full ISO ETTR exposure, as the ISO 800 rows can get very clipped. Something I didn't consider when trying it out, as I was using a feature that allowed alternate shots with and without the DualISO on. With DualISO you need to use a more standard exposure setting.
Finally I always suggest shooting in Manual exposure mode. On a day when the weather is pretty constant the exposure will barely change all the way through the show. I like to use a handheld incident lightmeter, I started doing this back in the 70's with a fully manual Pracktica Nova B, that didn't even have a built in meter, but there are other options that work just as well. I also carry a small folding 12" "reflector". One side is silver and the other is 18% grey. I just spotmeter from that. Or there are a whole load of other "standard" alternative metering targets, green grass is usually quite good, Ireland should be good for that, or even from the palm of your hand, although that requires you add +1EV to the reading, and works for all ethnicities. Consistent exposure is also really important when you are shooting backlit aircraft.
Alan