Share you 2016 Perseid meteor images here

Nice shots! Where were they taken?

A compilation, what a great idea. After a quick layer mask tutorial, here's mine.

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The only one I was able to catch.

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/KQRt​Mz

Awesome startrails image!

bpalermini wrote in post #18093961
I shot at Joshua Tree NP last night. I too was disappointed in the number of meteors I saw but it was a beautiful night to stare at the stars. I took about 750 photos using two cameras over 3 hours from midnight to 3am. I can't believe how many airplanes are flying at that time. I guess all those Amazon packages need to get around somehow. Here's what I got.

4 (about two hours of 25 second exposures)

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This is APOD worthy! please send it in, what an awesome composite.

pdxbenedetti wrote in post #18094054
Alright, here's the fruits of my labor:

Taken from Moosehorn Lake in the Uinta Mountains of Utah. Altogether about 125 shots went into making this one shot with my Nikon D600 and Rokinon 24mm f1.4 lens on my Star Adventurer Tracking Mount as well as my Nikon D7000 and Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 lens on my iOptron Skytracker mount.

Wow, the compilation shots work brilliantly here. Very impressed. Great idea Guys

Long time reader and admirer of this site. This was taken 24 miles outside of Twentynine Palms , CA.
Canon 6D ISO 6400 Rokinon 14mm 2.8 15s.

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/K9uo​kN

bpalermini wrote in post #18094832
I think you can get rid of most of the delay.

The way I do it there is just a fraction of a second between exposures. I set my shutter speed to 30 seconds and my drive to low speed continuous and then lock the shutter down with a remote release.

Yep - this is what I do. If you use an intervalometer, the camera needs a short delay between the end of one shot and the start of the next. If you use "continuous" drive mode then you can lock the shutter button and it's a much faster shot-to-shot rate. You do need a remote shutter release that has the lock slider on the shutter button (but that's not an expensive item and most "wired" shutter releases will have a lock slider.)

Celestron wrote in post #18094858
Outside what everyone suggested I might also suggest two things . Make sure your card is a fast writer , otherwise you might be waiting on camera to write data to your card . Second , make sure your camera is set to multiple exposures or continuous as suggested above . I use a remote that I manually trip shutter after each exposure and I trip it for next exposure Everytime the previous exposure closes . That's less than a second between exposures .

Write speed shouldn't be a problem since these are long exposure times. Any modern camera can buffer the last frame taken and write it the card while capturing the next frame. As long as it can write a frame within the 30 second time then you should be good. Most cards can write a frame to the card within a second a couple of seconds.

I'm guessing most DSLRs on the market can probably buffer at least 5 RAW frames. Higher end models have larger buffers and can handle many more. But given the 30 second exposure time, it will never need to buffer more than a single frame.

pdxbenedetti wrote in post #18094866
At first I was shooting the same portion of the sky, did that for about 10 minutes, then I thought to myself "why the hell am I using two cameras to shoot the same exact thing?" So I switched the D7000/Tokina to the lake and tried to capture reflections, which wasn't working well, so I switched it to take shots straight east. I only had one meteor captured when both cameras were targeting the same thing and both cameras caught it, fwiw here are the two shots for comparison:

D600 + Rokinon 24mm f1.4:

Hosted photo: posted by pdxbenedetti in
./showthread.php?p=180​94866&i=i238294504
forum: Astronomy & Celestial

D7000 + Tokina 11-16mm f2.8:

Hosted photo: posted by pdxbenedetti in
./showthread.php?p=180​94866&i=i98634765
forum: Astronomy & Celestial

Interestingly, both shots have the same exact white balance settings and pretty much the same exact edits in Lightroom (slightly different vignetting corrections only major difference). Note the slight differences in color rendition.

Also, I only use a 1 second delay between exposures, the minimum my intervalometers will allow, don't have any problems with that.

Strangely your EXIF data shows an 85mm lens on that first frame (clear it's not 85mm) -- the one you indicated is 24mm (and probably is). Anyway, I'm looking at your stars in the corners at f/1.4 and they look GREAT (especially considering this is shot at f/1.4).

I've have a Canon 14mm f/2.8L and the brighter stars show some spearing in the corners if I'm at f/2.8. It looks much better if I stop it down (and I do -- especially since I'm on a tracker head.)

Here's mine!

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/L83n​4k

We were at the Washington coast Friday evening but the moon was so bright we couldn't see anything.

FarmerTed1971 wrote in post #18095236
We were at the Washington coast Friday evening but the moon was so bright we couldn't see anything.

Yep, definitely needed to wait for moonset for the best viewing. I was out from about 1:30-4:30 am

And had to work the next day! Yuck!

So you folks don't think mirror lock-up is necessary for these types of shots?

TCampbell wrote in post #18095213
Strangely your EXIF data shows an 85mm lens on that first frame (clear it's not 85mm) -- the one you indicated is 24mm (and probably is). Anyway, I'm looking at your stars in the corners at f/1.4 and they look GREAT (especially considering this is shot at f/1.4).

I've have a Canon 14mm f/2.8L and the brighter stars show some spearing in the corners if I'm at f/2.8. It looks much better if I stop it down (and I do -- especially since I'm on a tracker head.)

Ya, I noticed that too, so strange. If you look at the focal length of the shot it says 24mm, I don't know why the exif says it was an 85mm lens, I do have and use a Rokinon 85mm f1.4 so I wonder if somehow that exif is being added in some way.

The Rokinon 24mm is notorious for copy to copy variation in terms of coma and soft spots, I got really lucky with the copy I got, pretty dang sharp to the corners with only a little coma. If you look at the shot with the Tokina you'll see the whole right side of the image is very soft and there is a lot of coma in the corners, I need to sell that lens (and a few others I never use) and either buy another Rokinon 24mm, the Rokinon 14mm, or grab a Sigma 35mm f1.4 to use on my D600 and just use the 24mm I have on my D7000.

davidmtml wrote in post #18095231
Here's mine!

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/L83n​4k Perseid Meteor Shower by David Rabenberg, on Flickr

Very nice!

alliben wrote in post #18095311
So you folks don't think mirror lock-up is necessary for these types of shots?

For wide angle shots you don't need mirror lockup, the only time I use that is when I'm taking exposures at 150mm or longer where the vibrations of the mirror going up can cause issues.