Canon 5D Mark IV -- Time to Discuss!

One thing that is really annoying me is that when I select different focus areas, with single point or single + assists, the initial selected point is always over to the right and I have to press the joystick to get the point back to the centre. I thought it might be something to do with registered points, but it doesn't seem to be. I can't seem to find a setting that will alter this. On my 7D II, it always seems to default to the centre point when I cycle through the af areas, but on this body I press the area select button again only to find that it's gone off to the right each time. I have no idea what I'm doing wrong!

RodS57 wrote in post #18153137
A ways back in this thread someone posted that touch focus didn't work when using back button focus. As some already suggested go back to normal shutter button function and see if that fixes the problem.

Rod

Yup that was me

sploo wrote in post #18153393
For the files issue - if you delete an image from a card then I believe it'll only delete from the playback card. So, if (in camera) you deleted image 004 but by default had the CF card (which is card 1) as playback, then you'll likely still have 004.jpg on the SD card.

For the AF points... that's odd. What AF points mode were you using? If it was a point + 4 or 8 assist then it may be showing the point that actually locked focus (which could be one of the assist points).

I see, I was under the impression it deleted the image from both cards...thanks for that.
The af point was user error

don1163 wrote in post #18153464
I see, I was under the impression it deleted the image from both cards...thanks for that.
The af point was user error

I tend to write both file types to both cards, so it at least means I get reasonably sensible behaviour when I delete an image - I just need to remember that I'm not removing images from the SD card (so I periodically format it - as it's effectively only used as a backup in case of a CF failure).

don1163 wrote in post #18153464
I see, I was under the impression it deleted the image from both cards...thanks for that.
The af point was user error

None of the dual card Canon cameras are able to do that dual deletion, even the 1D series. It can be annoying at times.

Engineered_Reflex wrote in post #18153432
One thing that is really annoying me is that when I select different focus areas, with single point or single + assists, the initial selected point is always over to the right and I have to press the joystick to get the point back to the centre. I thought it might be something to do with registered points, but it doesn't seem to be. I can't seem to find a setting that will alter this. On my 7D II, it always seems to default to the centre point when I cycle through the af areas, but on this body I press the area select button again only to find that it's gone off to the right each time. I have no idea what I'm doing wrong!

It does this on the 7D2 as well IF you center the point with a joystick press and the camera is "awake" in focusing mode. If you move the point back with left or right, up and down movements and then cycle through the focus areas it will stay on the selected point . Or you wait till the camera goes into "standby" then center the point then it forgets the last point before boucing back. I think the camera "remembers" the last point used before bouncing back and when you change focusing areas it goes back to the last point before centering. Is usefull sometimes, sometimes a pain in the ass.

Can anyone tell me why when I push the AF point selection button to view the focus points, the left and right large zone areas are blinking but the middle large zone is not??

It has me stumped.

George Zip wrote in post #18153838
Can anyone tell me why when I push the AF point selection button to view the focus points, the left and right large zone areas are blinking but the middle large zone is not??

It has me stumped.

This all depends on what your maximum aperture is for the lens you are using. The blinking points are the non-cross type I believe. P-115 in the manual explains the points depending on aperture (or TC).

Neilyb wrote in post #18153844
This all depends on what your maximum aperture is for the lens you are using. The blinking points are the non-cross type I believe.

Ah ok, using the 100-400 II

Still confused but I'll check it out

haven't posted for a while but thought I'd share an update with my AF issue (similar to sploo) with my new 5DIV

sent it down to Canon almost a month ago and haven't got it back, spoke to team leader of workshop at Canon Australia today, firstly they acknowledged that there is definitely an issue with outer AF points behaving differently to the centre, process has been extremely time consuming as they have been testing every lens at different focal lengths on all 61 AF point individually including testing horizontal, vertical, and crosses individually in order to collate data to test and make adjustments, they hit a bit of hiccup because they had lost or misplaced some of the data collected last week meaning they had to start over...funny enough he said mine was the first one they had encountered when I asked if they had anyone else send body in for the same issue

George Zip wrote in post #18153845
Ah ok, using the 100-400 II

Still confused but I'll check it out

No sure I get it either but I am pretty sure the middle set is sensitive to f5.6 cross type and the rest to F8 but only horizonal. If you have an f2.8 lens the center column of points is diagonal cross type.

nqjudo wrote in post #18153207
My main reason for moving from the 5D3 to the 5D4 was because after getting the 7D2 I was really craving the relatively advanced feature and customization set in the 7D2 firmware. What I've found in the 5D4 is that and so much more. Yes, naysayers can pick the camera apart in an attribute vs attribute comparison but as a whole this is the most complete camera I have ever owned (and that includes the A7RII and several other mirrorless bodies). In terms of a system the IQ, DR, ISO performance, customization and lens selection make it more camera than I am going to need for a long, long time. If you aren't 100% sure about an outright purchase it is definitely worthy of a trial period. Keep us posted.

Yep. I just pulled the trigger on the 5div. can't wait. It looks like it's going to be the perfect camera for my needs right now. Jack of all trades, similar to what my 5d3 was.

I was actually comparing some images of the 5dsR and the 5d4, and a thought came out... if the 5dsR applies a "cancellation" filter to get rid of the AA, is it possible to somehow replicate that in post for the 5d4, and i guess any other cameras that have an AA filter...

It is all an optical filtration/cancellatio​n, which occurs before the sensor even sees anything. How would you take a scene that went through that filter and was then recorded, and know how the projection should have looked without the AA filter to write a reversal routine?

ilumo wrote in post #18154153
I was actually comparing some images of the 5dsR and the 5d4, and a thought came out... if the 5dsR applies a "cancellation" filter to get rid of the AA, is it possible to somehow replicate that in post for the 5d4, and i guess any other cameras that have an AA filter...

No; the cancellation is optical. Sharpening returns some of the pixel-level contrast lowered by the AA filter, but you can't get exactly what you would have without an AA filter in the first place. That is impossible, as the resolution frequency domain is soft-clipped by an AA filter, to prevent false resolution (mirror) frequencies from coming through.

The typical AA filter is two sheets of what are called a "birefringent" material (sp?), which takes a point of light and turns it into two points, their distance determined by the thickness of the material. Two sheets are laid down, at 90 degrees rotation, so each dot becomes 4 dots, like the corners of a square. When the filter is cancelled, the lower sheet is inverted so that it turns the two points back to one point, instead of 4. This way, the thickness is maintained and is consistent between the two camera designs. I have no proof, but suspect, that the cancelled type is actually better than having no AA filter at all, because it may turn that hypothetical dot into a slightly wider dot due to imperfections in the filter, but still quite small, which may attenuate the most egregious (mirror) frequencies, without reducing maximum pixel contrast by very much.