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Thread started 25 Nov 2016 (Friday) 01:38
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Portrait in front of Construction site

 
Jocce
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Nov 25, 2016 01:38 |  #1

A friend has asked me as a favour to take some pictures for his buisiness.

What he wants is a couple of his current customers in front of their Construction sites.
"Shoulders and up - Face in focus, Construction out of focus in the background" is what he is looking for.

On site I won't have much time with the customer (busy sheduale for them after talking to them), so want to make it as easy and quick for them as possible, and also not be in the way of the construction.

But just asking here for some tips, how would you do it?

Natural light all the way?

Reflector?

On camera flash for just giving the shadows a little "kick".

Off Camera flash (with diffusor?) to get som lighting on the subjects face?


/Jocce



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98kellrs
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Nov 25, 2016 01:49 |  #2

How about single speedlight using HSS into the sun, that would give a nice pop that would impress the client.


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windpig
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Nov 25, 2016 06:53 as a reply to  @ 98kellrs's post |  #3

This
But is sun an option?


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MalVeauX
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Nov 25, 2016 07:28 |  #4

Jocce wrote in post #18194064 (external link)
A friend has asked me as a favour to take some pictures for his buisiness.

What he wants is a couple of his current customers in front of their Construction sites.
"Shoulders and up - Face in focus, Construction out of focus in the background" is what he is looking for.

On site I won't have much time with the customer (busy sheduale for them after talking to them), so want to make it as easy and quick for them as possible, and also not be in the way of the construction.

But just asking here for some tips, how would you do it?

Natural light all the way?

Reflector?

On camera flash for just giving the shadows a little "kick".

Off Camera flash (with diffusor?) to get som lighting on the subjects face?


/Jocce

I'd take a HSS/ETTL capable flash and a decent 35~85mm prime/zoom with fast aperture. If you don't have HSS capability, maybe just take a 3 stop ND filter. If it's overcast, you can go natural light. But if it's sun blazing, it's going to be awful light and you'll want to stop it down and use flash to recover. Full sun sucks, all squinty eyes, hard blinding white reflections, it will cause havoc to your meter depending on what it's set to, etc. Overall, I'd look for some shade (watch out that your subjects are not in shade with a site not in shade behind them, will look wonky and blown out exposure in the background).

If you shoot from a kneeling position, angling up to your subject's shoulders/faces, they will get that "larger than life" look. Just mind composition of the construction behind them so that it looks good and not just things coming out of their ears.

If you're totally hosed in full sun, I use shorter lenses so that I can get closer so that my HSS/ETTL flash can actually do the fill job and look ok (versus using telephoto and not being close enough and the flash not being powerful enough). Again if you don't have HSS capability but you have ETTL, you can use a 3 stop ND filter on F2.8 and work at sync speed likely (unless it's ultra, ultra bright out).

I'd leave the other stuff at home. If this is a rapid talk and shoot, I'd just have the camera & flash ready to go. Spend more time finding a good spot and good positioning with respect to the sun's light. That makes more of a difference.

Very best,


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OhLook
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Nov 25, 2016 10:42 |  #5

Jocce wrote in post #18194064 (external link)
On site I won't have much time with the customer (busy sheduale for them after talking to them), so want to make it as easy and quick for them as possible

I'm not qualified to give technical advice about equipment and settings, but I'll say that you know better than the customers how much time you need to do a good job. Make this clear to them.


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bumpintheroad
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Nov 25, 2016 15:17 as a reply to  @ OhLook's post |  #6

I often ran into the same problem shooting corporate execs. Executives have very busy schedules and are used to paying a premium for the flexibility to accommodate their schedule. The way I handled this is to have them supply an assistant to stand-in during setup and staging (40m) and then have the subject arrive when I'm ready to go for 20m worth of shooting. I'd bill 2 hours for this, so I have a 30m buffer in case the subject's arrival is delayed.

In order to work under this kind of time pressure you need to have your lighting, posing and rapport techniques down to a science. Practice on family, friends, relatives, even mannequins (well, mannequins can be difficult to engage in conversation). Measure light-to-subject distances and tie strings knotted for the correct distances so you don't have to fumble with tape measures.

For an outdoor shoot I'd bring two strobes with a silver and a white shoot-through umbrella, or two speedlights with bounce cards, and hss-capable triggers, light stands, sandbags and a double-sided silver/white reflector, and then decide what is needed based on the location. I always use at least one flash to ensure I get some kind of highlight in the subject's eyes, even if the flash contributes nothing to the exposure.

Find out in advance whether the subject is married, has kids, his favorite sports teams and pet charities, and any topics that should be avoided. Then do a little research so you can carry on a conversation. Essential: make sure to ask if the subject normally wears glasses, and whether or not he/she will want to wear glasses in the photo, because this will impact your light setup and subject prep. If the subject wants to wear the glasses, ask if he can borrow a pair of frames without lenses installed from his optician for the shoot, as this will make things much easier.

When you arrive scout out the shoot location for good angles and then setup your gear. Use the assistant to take test shots and adjust. Be aware of any height differences between the assistant and the subject, because while it might be okay to have to raise lights and camera for a taller subject, it might be embarrassing to the subject if you have to lower them.

As soon as the subject arrives get him or her into position. If he is wearing glasses when he arrives but doesn't want them on in the photos, have him take them off immediately so the marks on the bridge of his nose have time to go away. Adjust wardrobe. Apply pancake if needed to reduce shine (have towels available to clean-up afterwards) and adjust hair. Have unscented hairspray to keep hair in place in the wind (make sure to use a hand to keep hairspray off the subject's face). Bring Have a hand mirror so the subject can confirm he looks good. If he wants to wear glasses during the shoot pay strict attention to reflections, shadows and distortions caused by the lenses (this is why using blank frames are best, if possible).

Most execs know how to turn-on the charm at a moments notice, and so might not need any time to warm up. But often those expressions will look forced or faked. So you need to engage him in conversation right from the start to get him comfortable and confident with you, and keep it up between poses.

During the actual shoot use your hands to show the subject how you want them to tilt, turn, lean, etc., instead of just verbal commands. Periodically review your images to make sure your exposure and compensation are good. Pay particular attention to glare, distortion and shadows caused by glasses. Don't show the images to your subject; you don't have time for that. Keep the conversation going and watch for fleeting expressions as you ask about children, sports, work. No matter what happens, do not allow yourself to become upset, flustered or impatient with the subject; keep smiling and confident. If the subject wanted to wear sunglasses during the shoot, ask if you can shoot the last 10 minutes without them.

At the end, thank the subject for his time, tell him it was a pleasure working with him (even if it wasn't), and explain who will be getting the proofs and when the will be delivered.


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Alveric
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Nov 26, 2016 10:35 |  #7
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Scout the locations previously, so that you have a plan in terms of composition, which will determine your lighting. Mark a number of locations that might work; take snapshots of them and review them on your computer later, in order to choose one and have another one as backup.

Pay attention to the sun's angles and position and the time of the day you'll be shooting.

Have all your lighting set up prior to the subject's arrival, so that he just comes and stands where you need him; then it's just pop away. Keep your chimping to a mininum. Definitely useful to have a stand-in for this.

This is how one pro does it: https://youtu.be/YIlc8​Sx-PbQ (external link)
And: https://youtu.be/9ND2Z​UeV2-o (external link)


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windpig
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Nov 26, 2016 10:49 |  #8

Alveric wrote in post #18195067 (external link)
Scout the locations previously, so that you have a plan in terms of composition, which will determine your lighting. Mark a number of locations that might work; take snapshots of them and review them on your computer later, in order to choose one and have another one as backup.

Pay attention to the sun's angles and position and the time of the day you'll be shooting.

Have all your lighting set up prior to the subject's arrival, so that he just comes and stands where you need him; then it's just pop away. Keep your chimping to a mininum. Definitely useful to have a stand-in for this.

This is how one pro does it: https://youtu.be/YIlc8​Sx-PbQ (external link)
And: https://youtu.be/9ND2Z​UeV2-o (external link)

Alveric,
those are outstanding video's. The first one is probably the best, if not, one of the top 3 video's I've viewed regarding outdoor executive shoots with lighting.

Many thanks for posting the links.


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Alveric
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Post edited over 6 years ago by Alveric.
     
Nov 26, 2016 10:55 as a reply to  @ windpig's post |  #9
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No problem. Also, of note is that he's using a wide angle for his imagery (an EF 16-35mm by the looks of it); so much for the 'telephotos are the portrait lenses' myth.


'The success of the second-rate is deplorable in itself; but it is more deplorable in that it very often obscures the genuine masterpiece. If the crowd runs after the false, it must neglect the true.' —Arthur Machen
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